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StanF South Bend 9A Rebuild Thread

My last post with the cracked compound was a bummer, but this post is all fun and flash:

Before:
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After:
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I tapped the four holes to 2-56, and bought some period correct slotted screws.
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Before:
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After:
(4-40 slotted screws used)
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No picture, but I had to slot the mounting holes for the new thread chart - the holes didn't match very well. I did a fairly poor job of stamping my model number, but it was about as good as my old one!

Overall views:
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With the oil hole set screws, one thing my dad did was replace them with hex head set screws. They tend to "stick" to the Allen key while you're squirting oil in the hole so you don't have to worry about handling and dropping them. You can do the same with the dial clamping screws too, but on mine I just ground a little flat head screw driver to fit the slot as best as possible and it lives with the lathe for that sole purpose.
 
Some progress, and a question below:

Some paint got applied to the saddle and some other parts are all cleaned up in the back:
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The cross slide was also painted:
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Quick question...it looks like the original paint on the power switch was a dark gray, which isn't a great complementary color to the South Bend greenish gray.

Should I paint the switch:
a) South Bend Gray
b) Original switch Dark Gray
c) Satin Black
d) Some other color - specify!
e) It doesn't matter!
. IMG_8159 (Small).jpg
It's cleaned up and ready for paint:
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I did my switch a lighter grey than the rest of the lathe, as it's common for electrical components to be left their own colors rather than the company using it to repaint it to match the rest of the machine, but I like the Satin Black option. No wrong answers..... I shouldn't have said that.... don't paint it pink or purple!
 
Yeah, my drum switch is still that dark gray it came with years ago. I haven't bothered to repaint mine. It's a mute thing to me to worry about. Same with the motor, too.
 
Thanks to Ken, I got a new compound, so the project is back on track!
Cleaned and painted: (although it was very clean to start!)
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2nd coat of paint on the saddle:
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Switch cover...I put on a coat of flat black - black matches everything! But mostly I did it because I had a small can of flat black paint. I'm going to do the embossed letters in a contrasting color, so I left them free of paint for now.
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Next up...I'm pretty excited about having a taper attachment:
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Not much progress, as I was out of town over the weekend. But some of the saddle parts will be going back together soon.

I also saw a Heavy 10 for sale. I didn't realize that the devil was a machinist! Seriously though, is fire engine red a good lathe color? :confused:
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While I was out of town, I surprisingly found and purchased a new project. I went back with a trailer today to bring it home.
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It's a 21-122 Rockwell Hor-Vert Mill. Unfortunately, it's missing all the cool horizontal bits - arbor, over arm support, drawbar, etc. The rest of it appears to be in very good shape.
(the head is tilted over for transport)
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There's not a mark on the table!
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My plan is to completely finish the 9A before I start cleaning up the Rockwell.
I don't plan to repaint the Rockwell - just disassemble it enough to inspect it and get it well-lubricated.
 
Delta Rockwell used to make some very good equipment. While they've always been a bit of a "box store" brand, up until probably the 60's or 70's they had some decent industrial grade lines. We've got a late 50's lathe that's right on par with our South Bend Heavy 10, and several other sanders and saws and the like that are a few steps above the old Craftsman level of quality (which was itself a decent value IMO).

Having a vertical head will make that mill very useful, though I'd keep an eye on flea-bay and the other classifieds for the horizontal bits too. What tool taper is it?

How does the headstock speed change work? I might be thinking of old Clausing horizontals of the same size, but I seem to remember some of these old Rockwells having a reeves drive variable speed belt system. If so, they can be a little fickle to tune up and having new belts can make a huge difference, but they're really slick to use once running. The same system is on our Rockwell lathe and it's great for finding just the right speed WHILE you're cutting.
 
What a nice find! And appears to be in very nice condition.
I have a 14" Rockwell lathe that was pretty butchard up when I got it. Luckly the bed was in nice shape. I rebuilt most of the lathe and so far has turned into a nice lathe.
 
Nice find, Stan. We are kind of similar in that all these old American iron machines tend to follow to our respective shops :D.
 
A piss poor paint job on that heavy 10. Somebody flipping it is my guess. Poor prep, painted parts that shouldn't be are all instant warnings to me. What else are they trying to hide or gloss over. Was it a rusted boat anchor and they made it look a bit better with abrasives etc on the ways? Even worse is the non traditional color, and how many is that going to really appeal to? To redo it correctly, that paint is imo going to devalue the price and not increase it. Original paint no matter how poor it's condition, is at least giving you a fair or semi decent indicator of what you might be really buying.

But a lucky find for that H/V Rockwell mill. There's some user and parts lists on line, Although I didn't find any that specifically applies to your H/V mill. But if you can find the correct parts list and use the part names or sometimes even part numbers, I'd set up multiple Ebay, Facebook etc searches using those terms and you might find the missing parts. If the parts on my little A%$@s horizontal I had to find are any indicator, it might take a while and probably be not all that cheap unless you get real lucky again. Normally I'd recommend not buying any machine with missing or critical parts. But given that mills desirability and likely rarity today, you have to take what you can find.
 
Some saddle progress...first, I added a spanner wrench hole to the crossfeed - for some reason, my lathe didn't have one.
I marked the location on the bottom, so the spanner hole won't be visible in normal operation.
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I just eyeballed everything, and drilled it on the drill press, which is enough precision for this hole:
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Fully functional:
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Installed:
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I still need to add a coat of paint to the compound base, then I'll get the compound installed.
 
Isn't that an M head on that machine? Or a more modern version. In any event that machine calls out for a VFD to run the vertical spindle.

The red 10L has the classic signs of a paint-rebuild: the overspray on the timbers it's mounted on.
 
Isn't that an M head on that machine? Or a more modern version. In any event that machine calls out for a VFD to run the vertical spindle.

The red 10L has the classic signs of a paint-rebuild: the overspray on the timbers it's mounted on.
How would you tell if that was a factory color option? Would the card from Grizzly tell that?

AP1GczNtHejL1IRTcTLG4yL_rTfwQtjkbPIrwJBsceYttbQ2ZIocosRXuXne1CXctaV02ohNprMbPpEOR3IkGrA0hESC91MjGojhiB07tu9mEKjUENAzJ9WC86vhJZBRdHdlvv1nZIvsVxfYnTQb30TVSUcCjQ=w1399-h789-s-no-gm
 
Nothing major, but still turning the crank...saddle done:
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Painted and gun blued the power switch:
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(The front plate paint was drying, so it isn't shown)
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Got the tailstock disassembled...
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...and fully cleaned...I'll use gun blue on five of the hardware pieces - everything else will get paint.
I ordered some brass shim stock to get the tailstock better aligned - it has ~0.020 droop.
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Then, on to the taper attachment...I procrastinated on that one!
 
.020" droop? That would be a massive amount of wear. How did you measure that? If you swung an indicator tip inside the tail stocks MT and using the head stock to rotate it, those numbers won't even be close to correct. The reason I ask is because I got fooled by that method myself for a few hrs. until I figured out what was happening. The initial alignment for the tail stocks side - side can be done that way, but gravity will bend the indicator rod assembly more than enough for those vertical alignment numbers. You can check if the tail stocks quill is pointing down and by how much by extending that quill, set the quill lock, the use the carriage to run an indicator along the top of the quill.

But if it's really out by that .020" then I'd re-mill the tail stocks ways so there back to being straight and then shim the whole tail stock up until it's back to correct. Scraping for final alignment after milling would be best of course. Ideally the tail stocks quill should end up square and parallel to the bed ways, be pointing .001"-.002" uphill and towards the operator by the same amount over about 12". For checking that you'd need a good MT test bar though.
 
.020" droop? That would be a massive amount of wear. How did you measure that?

Thanks for the tips - they will be very helpful. It was a very quick test that I did several weeks ago - I just put two dead centers in the headstock and tailstock and compared them in height. This was done quick - were both tapers completely clean? Any burrs? Etc? I was also surprised at the large mismatch when I saw it. I'll investigate more carefully when I reinstall the tailstock, and ask more questions for sure. This is an easy part to remove later and do a better repair/correction.

There is a noticeable groove worn on the underside of the tailstock, but I'd estimate it at .010 deep at the front of the tailstock and only .005 at the rear.
 








 
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