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Stupid question - programmable overhang boring bar holder?

OK, after pondering this for a cpl hours, I guess that I am still cornfused. :o
Maybe I don't have enough lathe experience, or ??? (putz)

But where in the equazsion of programming time v/s set-up time - does the field representing the length of a boring bar fit? I'm not git'n it? :scratchchin: :o

View attachment 374048


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
Well, as I stated in first post - bear with me :D We (4 guys) are first, and foremost, engineers who happen to love solving operational problems, doing all the design work and, as it turned out, starting actually making our own parts. In the past two years the machining has moved from a "hobby" to a full-blown job where everything we do is self-financed and taught (albeit the latter with a great deal of advice & help). We started with cheap router tables, then a Multicam, the Haas lathe & in 6 months we get a brand new Okuma mill. Maybe we'll have one of those Hermle machines in 5 years time, just because we can.
Are we efficient? Hell no. But our customers love our products and we love making them ourselves! But every once in a while I'll moan at you guys over my newbie questions - apologies for that:D
 
Yeah, that's a good sized drill.
I didn't know what size that we were discussing here.

I have a 2.5" Sanvik de-vibe bar that I absolutely love!
It's just held in with a cpl set screws and works amazingly.

What flavor bar is the one that you are not impressed with?


[edit]
Then again - I have insert drills up to 3.5", and those don't push that hard.
I take it that you have a "40" Haas lathe? (or maybe just a "30"?)
That should push a bigger drill eh?
[/edit]


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
This is the de-vibe bar that I bought for another part we're making.
As I said, probably just user error, I didn't use a split holder for that one, which I think it requires. But really sobering price for a dust collector, so need to get it right before I buy another one.
 

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Well, as I stated in first post - bear with me :D We (4 guys) are first, and foremost, engineers who happen to love solving operational problems, doing all the design work and, as it turned out, starting actually making our own parts. In the past two years the machining has moved from a "hobby" to a full-blown job where everything we do is self-financed and taught (albeit the latter with a great deal of advice & help). We started with cheap router tables, then a Multicam, the Haas lathe & in 6 months we get a brand new Okuma mill. Maybe we'll have one of those Hermle machines in 5 years time, just because we can.
Are we efficient? Hell no. But our customers love our products and we love making them ourselves! But every once in a while I'll moan at you guys over my newbie questions - apologies for that:D
...and yet....you "cannot" make a custom boring bar holder that does what you want....sigh
 
@Ox. The big advantage I see (if it applies) stubbin' up a long bar might result in the backside of the bar hitting the turret when indexing? Ask me how I know.. :leaving:

Want to point out in my experience that KM aren't really popular around here, so good and bad, may be cheap to buy some used, but if you want new may be hard to get. Capto seems to be the gold standard on those type of modular connections but very SPENDY.
 
Yeah, that's a good sized drill.
I didn't know what size that we were discussing here.

I have a 2.5" Sanvik de-vibe bar that I absolutely love!
It's just held in with a cpl set screws and works amazingly.

What flavor bar is the one that you are not impressed with?


[edit]
Then again - I have insert drills up to 3.5", and those don't push that hard.
I take it that you have a "40" Haas lathe? (or maybe just a "30"?)
That should push a bigger drill eh?
[/edit]


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
I've got the ST30Y lathe, so I agree that I should probably get away with using larger drills. On OD turning larger (12") duplex parts I've seen 120-140% spindle loads without that causing any trouble, but I regret not going for the gearbox option.

Tempted to try something different than the KM index drills as well, but I have bought a lifetimes worth of inserts to get through first😅

As always thanks for all advice and criticism, the latter is well deserved, I know. Hopefully in a few years I'll have it all figured out🙂
 
@Ox. The big advantage I see (if it applies) stubbin' up a long bar might result in the backside of the bar hitting the turret when indexing? Ask me how I know.. :leaving:

Want to point out in my experience that KM aren't really popular around here, so good and bad, may be cheap to buy some used, but if you want new may be hard to get. Capto seems to be the gold standard on those type of modular connections but very SPENDY.
Ouch, was close once myself. Think there's about 3" clearance to the back on mine if I remember correctly. Will look into the Capto. Don't mind spending the money as long as the tooling will be useable in a future, arguably better, mill/turn machine.
 
Well, as I stated in first post - bear with me :D We (4 guys) are first, and foremost, engineers who happen to love solving operational problems, doing all the design work and, as it turned out, starting actually making our own parts. In the past two years the machining has moved from a "hobby" to a full-blown job where everything we do is self-financed and taught (albeit the latter with a great deal of advice & help). We started with cheap router tables, then a Multicam, the Haas lathe & in 6 months we get a brand new Okuma mill. Maybe we'll have one of those Hermle machines in 5 years time, just because we can.
Are we efficient? Hell no. But our customers love our products and we love making them ourselves! But every once in a while I'll moan at you guys over my newbie questions - apologies for that:D


I see that you are working your way into being a politician eh?
You quoted a question, and never touched it at all in the response.

Just a WAG, but I would guess that I have programmed, set up, and ran more CNC lathe jobs than you 4 guys as well as Mr. King all together - and you 5 have somehow found a way that this makes sense regarding butt time on a CAM system, and I, having absolutely zero experience with CAM - am trying to understand how knowing the exact length of your boring bar has anything to doo with programing? Also - I am not a degreed Engineer either.

Doo y'all not call a Z offset?
I have ran lathes sporting both Mits and Fanuc, and so far, all of mine have the option of tool offsets.
Does your lathe not support this normally standard feature?

I still don't understand how any of this has anything to doo with saving program time?
And I also see absolutely no reason that it would save any set-up time either.

???


Mike - I doo agree with your post 100%, but that doesn't seem to be the issue that he is concerned about. At least he has not mentioned that as a reason at all yet. More likely having it stick out would plink the turret casting if sticking out very far at all, depending on the machine.

Either way - I still don't see how any of that saves any time on either end? (time appears to be the issue here?)
Maybe I am missing something that the rest of the world understands that I have yet to encounter?
If so, please enlighten me....


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
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I see that you are working your way into being a politician eh?
You quoted a question, and never touched it at all in the response.

Just a WAG, but I would guess that I have programmed, set up, and ran more CNC lathe jobs than you 4 guys as well as Mr. King all together - and you 5 have somehow found a way that this makes sense regarding butt time on a CAM system, and I, having absolutely zero experience with CAM - am trying to understand how knowing the exact length of your boring bar has anything to doo with programing? Also - I am not a degreed Engineer either.

Doo y'all not call a Z offset?
I have ran lathes sporting both Mits and Fanuc, and so far, all of mine have the option of tool offsets.
Does your lathe not support this normally standard feature?

I still don't understand how any of this has anything to doo with saving program time?
And I also see absolutely no reason that it would save any set-up time either.

???


Mike - I doo agree with your post 100%, but that doesn't seem to be the issue that he is concerned about. At least he has not mentioned that as a reason at all yet. More likely having it stick out would plink the turret casting if sticking out very far at all, depending on the machine.

Either way - I still don't see how any of that saves any time on either end? (time appears to be the issue here?)
Maybe I am missing something that the rest of the world understands that I have yet to encounter?
If so, please enlighten me....


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
Apologies for missing the question!
No, my initial post boils down to;
1)Boring bar overhang is as long as it needs to be to finish the job, but it would be nice to have a shorter one too, to reduce chatter.
2) The bar is a PITA to change because the holder needs to come out and in, in the middle of the program and it's probably not the most user friendly boring bar or holder.
3) Then the whatif struck me, thinking it would be nice to have a boring bar that I could set to a different length in a flash.

Not really a problem at all, hence the stupid title, since for this particular job I can use a second holder with a shorter bar, but for other parts it's a bit tricky.
Was just curious what was out there of tooling, as it seems to be endless to me.

Edit: I get the fact that this would be easy if it were a case of just unscrewing a couple set screws, adjust the bar to mark or stopper and thereafter use a new G54 offset for the tool. But that's not what I've got - I'm using the split holder I was told to use a few years ago🙂

I suggest calling it the day, got plenty of good advice here from you guys!
 
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This is the de-vibe bar that I bought for another part we're making.
As I said, probably just user error, I didn't use a split holder for that one, which I think it requires. But really sobering price for a dust collector, so need to get it right before I buy another one.

Just looking at that box - is that a 1" bar?
(I understand that you are not using that bar here)

So, did you tell us?
What bar ARE you using here?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Well then maybe we jist need to look at your BBar holding method?
If you can't move the bar easily AND you are gitt'n chatter when you prolly shouldn't, how about we try to address those two issues on their own, before we just throw $ at it?

Could you post pics of your set-up and a window of your program relative to the boring bar?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Well then maybe we jist need to look at your BBar holding method?
If you can't move the bar easily AND you are gitt'n chatter when you prolly shouldn't, how about we try to address those two issues on their own, before we just throw $ at it?

Could you post pics of your set-up and a window of your program relative to the boring bar?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
Appreciate that Ox, will do that first thing in the morning! Beer drinking time her in Norway just now.
It's a 40mm KM bar in a BMT65 split 40mm holder. don't remember the finer details top of my head. Ironically I was told to use the split holder instead of the simple just set screw holders in order to avoid chatter.
 
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Well, on it's own, that is good advise really, but if your bar has a flat on it, a split bush will likely end up gitt'n sprung, creating the %^$$#! issue with sliding / removing it that you describe. Also - depends on how you have that bush situated in the holder as well. But again, I don't know your bar or set-up yet.

BTW, most all of us here are interested in "solving problems".
Especially when hopefully we can learn from someone else's pain rather than our own!
It's not just Engineers from Norway.

And the method that you were approaching is not an Engineers way of solving a problem.
It is the Purchasing Agents method.
You should understand physics, and should be looking for mechanical ways to solve, and all the Purchasing Agent knows is how to throw money at a situation - hoping that eventually something sticks.

Sometimes you doo need the expensive tooling, no doubt, but let's try to help you with what you have currently first.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
2) The bar is a PITA to change because the holder needs to come out and in, in the middle of the program and it's probably not the most user friendly boring bar or holder.
Do you not have enough stations on your turret to add different boring bar lengths?
Some lathes allow you to index 1/2 of a station at a time effectively doubling the # of tools you can put in your turret.
 
In the original post it is stated he is using a 50mm bar.

On the Haas lathe I run the spindle speed variation thingy is M38 and M39. M138 and M139 are for the live tooling. It may have been a typo or that may have been why you had little luck with it.
 
Yeah, well so far he has said 40mm and 50mm.
It's prolly a 40mm bar with a 50mm min bore, but ???


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
In the original post it is stated he is using a 50mm bar.

On the Haas lathe I run the spindle speed variation thingy is M38 and M39. M138 and M139 are for the live tooling. It may have been a typo or that may have been why you had little luck with it.
Hi @kenton , you're right- It was a typo - I use it for Ø50 drilled holes, but the bar itself is Ø40. You're right about the second one too. BTW - What's your opinion on the M38/39 thing if you've used it? Apart from not having a lot of luck with it, I'm thinking that it must add some wear to the machine to rev up and down like that.

@Mtndew - The machine has half indexing (24 pos. turret) and it came with a double or triple holder actually, but its got 20 or 25 mm holes. Sorry for inaccuracy, it's in a drawer, never been used due to the bars being to close to each other - for most parts I've made the neighboring bar would collide with the part. I also want to use as thick boring bars as possible. For this part that I'm doing now I've got 200 mm overhang on a 40 mm bar, so that's 5xD & resulting chatter. Just chatter towards the free end of the part though.

While I'm at it, here's exactly what I have:
Material: 316L - Ø120 mm - cut to 200mm length
Fixation: 3 x grip jaws - 35 mm grip length @ approx. 15 bar chuck pressure
Ø40 boring bar - 5D overhang with Kenna DNMG 150608MS - KCU10 insert.
Running at VC140m/min, F0.45mm/r, 2 mm DOC. Making nice chips, but with a hell of whistling due to chatter.
Turning the hole which is 185 deep from Ø50 to Ø95.

@Ox - You nailed it I think with "if your bar has a flat on it, a split bush will likely end up gitt'n sprung, creating the %^$$#! issue with sliding / removing it that you describe". I remembered incorrectly - it has a flat on it unlike what I first wrote. The bastard is so stuck that I can't remember the last time I took it out of the holder. Nearly stripped the head off the set screw that you need to tighten in order to widen the "clamp". Now it's set fully through and resting against the backplate of the holder - which is convenient because I don't need to jerryrig the bar with an IC hose.

As for feed, speed & DOC - I just don't get it. I've used the same figures before and it was (almost) fine with little chatter. I realize that everything I'm doing in the 5 X D range should chatter, but like I say, it has worked before. That's why I'm wondering a bit if 316 is not always the same. I've played around with feed and speed with little effect.

Right - now it's past my bedtime!

Cheers,
John
 

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Well, the 4X depth ratio is a guideline, but there are other fields in the equazsion, like DOC, Corner Rad, Base Material, etc...

But right now I am not convinced that your trouble is the bar vibrating. You have mentioned at least 2wice that you are having issues with the bottom 1/3 (?) of the part. The boring bar has no clue where in the part that it is, all it knows is where it is mounted.

So, if you are having chatter issues in the bottom 1/3 of the part, then my guess is that you need to look at your part.
What is different down there?

From here, it sounds like it is more rigid down there as opposed to the top part. Now this may sound funny, but I'm wondering if by chance that your part has some chatter in it up top, and your bar has some chatter in it everywhere. And that maybe the opposing vibes are canceling each other out? Isn't that essentially what a de-vibe bar does?

Again, just a thought as I am not seeing or experiencing your issue first hand.
Just something that came to mind first.

However, I don't think that it all that abnormal for 316 to squeal either?
But the closest thing that I have ran that I can think of that I ran out of 316 - I don't recall having squealing, but I was likely running my de-vibe bar?



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Squeeler
Ox
 
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Hi i all the main stuff on my turret is capto, insert holders, silent boring bars some insert drills. The tool blocks are the big $$$, capto is really time saving when you have a very old lathe without tool offsets. I can change a insert and not have to touch off and it repeats fantastic.
 
So, if you are having chatter issues in the bottom 1/3 of the part, then my guess is that you need to look at your part.
What is different down there?

From here, it sounds like it is more rigid down there as opposed to the top part. Now this may sound funny, but I'm wondering if by chance that your part has some chatter in it up top, and your bar has some chatter in it everywhere. And that maybe the opposing vibes are canceling each other out? Isn't that essentially what a de-vibe bar does?



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Squeeler
Ox
Yep! I used to do a fair bit of hard-turning with CBN's. 60+ Rockwell. It did not take me long to figure out that those inserts like/need a chip!
If your pass cut 3 tenths over? Scrap it. Cause a spring-pass was out of the question without harmonics showing up. (In this application)
Same parts: Put a center in the long end? Nope! It would introduce some kind of energy in the parts that would find its way out through the finish.
I hated that job because, the boss would only ever let us make one extra part. This was hard turning a part with -.0000"/+.0002". And we had to program the pass on a taper to get straight parts! What a royal PITA! But, it wasn't my show. The parts should have went out for grind.
I'm glad I learned pretty early on that, machining is not always intuitive!
The point is, as Ox eludes, the problem/solution is not always obvious. And sometimes you have to try odd-ball shit to find the problem.
Then you can work on the solution, LOL.

I make low tolerance milled aluminum widgets now! :D
 
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