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Syncrowave 250 problems

jigwelder

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Location
Melbourne, Florida
I fired up my Miller syncrowave 250 for the first time in a few months the other day. I tried to weld some 1/8 inch test samples and could not get the aluminum to melt(not enough power). Even with the Amperage knob on 320 and the pedal completely depressed it would barely melt the edges. Hopefully someone on here can shed some light on this problem. Also when welding stainless (machine set to [electrode negative], high frequency [start] I could not get the weld arc started at a low current setting. I would get the high frequency spark and give it more and more pedal until all at once a powerful weld arc would melt the $h** out of my piece. Thanks.
jeremy
 

macona

Diamond
Joined
Jun 20, 2006
Location
Beaverton, OR
Your foot pedal may be messed up. Set the machine to remote contactor and panel current control and see is you have good control that way. (You are only using the pedal to start-stop)
 

jigwelder

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Location
Melbourne, Florida
Tried that already. Set the amps all the way up and control to to panel. Hit the pedal and same thing.
What about the voltage taps where the power cord comes in? I think they have a 208v and 230v and 240v or something like that. I could check what the exace voltage out of the wall is and hook it up accordingly. Probably not the problem.
Maybe the ground clamp to ground wire connection?
 

macona

Diamond
Joined
Jun 20, 2006
Location
Beaverton, OR
I have found the machine will work either way in 208 or 240, just it will give the wrong voltage at the accessory plug if hooked up wrong.

Chances are its a bad main board. Or a bad current sensor. older versions have a plate of metal as a current shunt mounted on the fan, newer ones have a LEM current sensor on one of the output wires. check connections on these.

Whats the serial number?
 

macona

Diamond
Joined
Jun 20, 2006
Location
Beaverton, OR
Thats why I asked him to switch to panel mode for current control. If it is still doing it then there is something wrong in the current feedback. Could be something is as simple as a bad connection to the board.

Synchrowave 250s are pretty simple machines but usually when you start having output problems and it is not the pedal I am usually stuck installing a new board. For the older machines there is a kit that removes the old shunt and installs the new hall effect current sensor.
 

Mike W

Stainless
Joined
Jan 12, 2003
Location
Central Kali.
I have a Syncro 250 that was fine for a year and then the pedal quit working. I started checking and found that the conector for the pedal on the machine didn't have some connectors soldered. The pins were just making contact with the plated thru holes until they got a little dirty.
 

jigwelder

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Location
Melbourne, Florida
Thanks for the input. One thing that buggs me is that the machine has lots of power in the DC mode. The last time I used it (last week) I was welding stainless DC. I forgot to set the High Frequency to start only and had it on [continuous] by mistake. I ran it this way for a few minutes and wondered why the weld looked like crap then noticed the switch in the wrong position. Could this have screwed something up?

When I get off work I'll go out and pull the side cover off and check and clean all the connections. Hopefully the problem is not that big of a deal. What can you use to clean the High Frequency contacts?
 

jigwelder

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Location
Melbourne, Florida
Ok got home this morning and cleaned the contacts on my power leads. Tried it again and nothing. Took the top and side cover off, blew everything out with compressed air, and cleaned the connections on that cigar looking thing above the fan. Tried it again and same thing. Pulled out the board and looked it over for some smoked components(found none). I guess I have to send this out for repair which sounds expensive. This is a 1989 syncrowave 250 acording to the serial # that starts with JK. Are there places online I can go to buy parts or a new board for this thing? Also what kinda cost are we looking at for repair? Thanks for all the help.
 

macona

Diamond
Joined
Jun 20, 2006
Location
Beaverton, OR
You really want to take it to a shop to have it repaired. It still could be something simple. They have the tool necessary to test the machine under a controlled load (Load bank)

Leaving HF on wont matter since you usually run AC with HF on anyway.

If it is the board its the price on that board is a bit over $600. This machine will need the new hall effect current sensor installed as well (Part of the $600 kit) so they will charge at least 2 hours labor. Figure about $750. Thats assuming bad board and not something like a bad relay.
 

jigwelder

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Location
Melbourne, Florida
Got er fixed. Put the board back in and planned to butten everything up to send it out for repair when I discovered a wire hanging. Attached to the lug at the end of the wire was a brass screw and nut that appeared to be spot welded or brazed to something. After a half hour of searching I found where the wire was previously connected. This wire comes from the small silver box under the control board and goes to a bar under the fan. Anyway, cleaned up the area, screwed the wire back in place and the welder is working fine. Thanks for your help.
 








 
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