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Tablesaw runout

jaguar36

Cast Iron
Joined
May 13, 2015
Location
SE, PA
I've had a Sawstop PCS for a number years now and have never been happy with the cut quality. I generally end up running it through the jointer after to clean up the cuts. On my old craftsman saw I was always able to get cuts that looked perfect. Does anyone know what might be causing this? I spoke with the sawstop service folks when I first got it and they just blamed the blade, but I've used the same blade on the old saw. I've since tried a couple different Forrest Saw blades and haven't seen any improvement.

Does anyone know what the acceptable runout might be on a table saw? Or something else that might be causing this?
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
How do you adjust the table orientation with the blade arbor? On a Unisaw there are 4 bolts underneath the table in each corner.
 

Kingbob

Hot Rolled
Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Location
Louisiana
Put an indicator on the side of the blade to measure run out. If it's running out place shims between the blade and the flange on the arbor until it is no loner running out.
 

sealark37

Stainless
Joined
Mar 24, 2010
Location
Davidson NC USA
Your problem sounds like a misalignment between the blade and the table. Loosen the four bolts that hold the table, and adjust until the front of the blade is the same distance from the slot as the rear of the blade. Then check the fence for the same.
 

jaguar36

Cast Iron
Joined
May 13, 2015
Location
SE, PA
For starters, how about measuring the runout on the face of the arbor flange.

Do you get poor cut quality cross cutting also, or just ripping?

I did measure it, its only maybe 0.0002-3"? Although I confess that I'm not particularly skilled at using a tenths indicator. Particularly as the arbor/motor seems to have a bit of play in it relative to the table.

I do seem to get better quality cuts crosscutting.
 

jaguar36

Cast Iron
Joined
May 13, 2015
Location
SE, PA
Your problem sounds like a misalignment between the blade and the table. Loosen the four bolts that hold the table, and adjust until the front of the blade is the same distance from the slot as the rear of the blade. Then check the fence for the same.

How close does this need to be? Looks like I'm getting about 0.006" difference between the back and the front.
 

beckerkumm

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 5, 2014
Location
Wisconsin Rapids WI
That is a lot and could be enough that the back teeth are hitting one side while the front teeth are cutting the other. I measure the kerf of the cut and compare to the width of the tooth. If dust is flying up from the back teeth you have a problem. Dave
 

Tony Quiring

Titanium
Joined
Nov 5, 2008
Location
Madera county california usa
Sounds like the blade is notparalel with the miter guides.

Easy to fix, get a new blade in the saw, clamp something in the miter gage to allow for a dial indicator to measure the face of the blade.

The spindle is supported by something that bolts to bottom of table, look for mounting bolts and loosen them.

Shift and snug a bit, move until frontand back ends of blade measure same.

Assuming rip fence is parallel to mitertracks.



Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 

drcoelho

Stainless
Joined
Feb 19, 2017
Location
Los Altos
Your problem sounds like a misalignment between the blade and the table. Loosen the four bolts that hold the table, and adjust until the front of the blade is the same distance from the slot as the rear of the blade. Then check the fence for the same.

I concur, blade not parallel with the fence
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
Your problem sounds like a misalignment between the blade and the table. Loosen the four bolts that hold the table, and adjust until the front of the blade is the same distance from the slot as the rear of the blade. Then check the fence for the same.

As long as you rotate the blade back and forth to use the same tooth.

Having to stop the motor with the blade still on wood gets chatter marks as the brake engages.
 

barryvabeach

Plastic
Joined
Nov 29, 2006
Location
virginia
Check your manual on how to adjust this on the PCS. There are two allen keys located on either side of the table at the back . As you loosen one and tighten the other, it pushes the rear of the table one way or the other. Make sure you check that the opposing allen screw is not fully tightened, you need it to be loose to allow the table to move. You should be able to get it to within .001 pretty quickly.
 
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