Taper cutting tool for Moore Jig Borer tool holder storage

[Froneck]

Is the a Taper cutting device to cut the approx. angle of a Moore tool holder? I purchased 3 Susta brand tool storage holders from HGR some time ago. I have attached the frame near my Moore #3 Jig Borers. I have 2 frames of 11 holders each full of holders. However a number of the hard Red plastic inserts were broken so I can't fill another holder, actually none though I managed to glue 2 of them. However I need the full tray of 11. Found Red Delrin on ebay, it's on the way. Rather than make 11 individual holders to fit into the frame I'll just make one continuous strip with 11 holes.
Cutter does not have to be perfect just enough to support the holders for storage.
Any suggestions as to a tapered reamer of anything else? I'm thinking of using a tapered endmill.

 

[Steve Marquess]

Is the a Taper cutting device to cut the approx. angle of a Moore tool holder? ...

TBH I wouldn't bother with a taper. The original wooden Moore tool holders (at least the two I have) were just a straight bore (about .82"). I made more wooden holders with a .75" Forstner bit and that works quite well even for the tall heavy tooling.

-Steve M.

 

[sfriedberg]

A slight tweak on Steve's straight bores is to step bore, one about gage diameter and one sized for the tail of the holder.
To address the original question, a fat drill followed by a Tree taper boring head would be my tool of choice for "a few" holes, but Tree heads are kind of scarce.

 

[zeo]

There is seller on Ebay that's selling the drawings and some tooling with original patent for the taper cutting boring head. You can build your own.

 

[Doozer]

Pretty sure Moore is a NMTB 30.

-Doozer

 

[lucky7]

^^^ I thought so too, but Moore’s not iso/NMTB 30.

 

[sfriedberg]

I am reminded that in the late 80's I made a wooden block to hold some MT2 and MT3 tools, and made a couple of tapered spade drills to do it. Wood was construction 2x4, so probably fir or spruce, softwood not something fancy. IIRC I took a 1/4" thick piece of steel flat and welded it to some 3/8" steel round as a shank, then ground the flat so I had two cutting edges with a bit of radial relief. The result had a slight negative rake, so it was more of a scraping action than an aggressive cutting action. Drill or trepan a circular hole first, just large enough to get the nose of the tapered spade drill in. I bet this could be scaled up without much trouble to Moore taper size to cut holders in wood or plastic, especially if you would be happy with just 3/4" or 1" of depth at the top of the taper, instead of a full-depth taper.

 

[M.B. Naegle]

I use a couple of wood tool holder boards originally made for R8 tooling, with no modifications.

 

[JST]

A slight tweak on Steve's straight bores is to step bore, one about gage diameter and one sized for the tail of the holder.
......................................

That has always worked fine for me on MT tooling.