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Tapered bearing as zero point

Madis Reivik

New member
Hello all !

I have a simple fixture to make and I had an idea
Why not use tapered bearings instead of reamed hole / pin ?

Has anybody done that ? Bearings are cheap and accurate, much cheaper than true zero point holder system.

I was thinking about putting 4 bearings in the jig corners and put the M10 bolt tru them.
 

dandrummerman21

Active member
Hello all !

I have a simple fixture to make and I had an idea
Why not use tapered bearings instead of reamed hole / pin ?

Has anybody done that ? Bearings are cheap and accurate, much cheaper than true zero point holder system.

I was thinking about putting 4 bearings in the jig corners and put the M10 bolt tru them.

I would say "why?" but maybe I don't understand what you mean.
 

CarbideBob

Active member
High precision tapered rollers or car/truck bearings? 50 dollar or 2000 dollar?
Maybe check the catalog for just how accurate and true before thinking this a good idea.
 

angelw

Active member
Hello all !

I have a simple fixture to make and I had an idea
Why not use tapered bearings instead of reamed hole / pin ?

Has anybody done that ? Bearings are cheap and accurate, much cheaper than true zero point holder system.

I was thinking about putting 4 bearings in the jig corners and put the M10 bolt tru them.

I think you would run the risk of Brinelling the Cups in a static bearing configuration. A common method used to locate a pallet in a multi pallet change machine is via a solid cone and cup arrangement; that would be preferable to Taper Roller bearings.

Regards,

Bill
 

angelw

Active member
Hello all !

I have a simple fixture to make and I had an idea
Why not use tapered bearings instead of reamed hole / pin ?

Has anybody done that ? Bearings are cheap and accurate, much cheaper than true zero point holder system.

I was thinking about putting 4 bearings in the jig corners and put the M10 bolt tru them.

I think you would run the risk of Brinelling the Cups the cups in a static configuration. A common method used to locate a pallet in a multi pallet change machine is via a solid cone and cup arrangement. That would be preferable to Taper Roller bearings, but they would have to be accurately made to ensure the height at each corner was spot on. Measured as an assembly then ground to height perhaps.

Regards,

Bill
 

Madis Reivik

New member
I think you would run the risk of Brinelling the Cups the cups in a static configuration. A common method used to locate a pallet in a multi pallet change machine is via a solid cone and cup arrangement. That would be preferable to Taper Roller bearings, but they would have to be accurately made to ensure the height at each corner was spot on. Measured as an assembly then ground to height perhaps.

Regards,

Bill

Yes, Brinelling might be a problem. But its mostly light aluminium cutting (front panels) so the cutting force is very low.

I will fix the inner part on the table along with the ball-cage and outer part will be on the fixture.
And I will use 4 of these, fixing bolt M8 will go trough the bearing.

One bearing costs about 3-4 euros, so its worth a try. Also, as the ball(or roll)cage rotates between fixture changes (air blast) then it maybe wears evenly.

I let you folks know, I think the fixture is in operation at the end of this week.
 

DDoug

Active member
Hello all !

I have a simple fixture to make and I had an idea
Why not use tapered bearings instead of reamed hole / pin ?

Has anybody done that ? Bearings are cheap and accurate, much cheaper than true zero point holder system.

I was thinking about putting 4 bearings in the jig corners and put the M10 bolt tru them.

Generally, I use only (2) locating points, first one is a dowel, second is a diamond pin.

Using (4) is just asking for fighting between locators.
 

Garwood

Active member
Generally, I use only (2) locating points, first one is a dowel, second is a diamond pin.

Using (4) is just asking for fighting between locators.

Pallet changing HMC's often use four as AngelW described. I expect the accuracy is probably a magnitude better than wheel bearings in aluminum though.
 

Vancbiker

Active member
Yes, Brinelling might be a problem. But its mostly light aluminium cutting (front panels) so the cutting force is very low.

I will fix the inner part on the table along with the ball-cage and outer part will be on the fixture.
And I will use 4 of these, fixing bolt M8 will go trough the bearing.

One bearing costs about 3-4 euros, so its worth a try. Also, as the ball(or roll)cage rotates between fixture changes (air blast) then it maybe wears evenly.

I let you folks know, I think the fixture is in operation at the end of this week.

IMO, too many places for a chip to get caught up in.
 








 
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