tear down 10EE backgear

[Karl_T]

I am taking a 10EE backgear apart down to the casting.

Got in trouble removing the shifting fork. There were two 3/8 nuts holding what I think is a taper pin on each fork. First I loosened the nuts and gave them a whack - no joy. Hit it harder - no joy. Now the threads are buggered so i ground the pins down to the fork surface and hit one HARD with a punch - no joy.

I may have screwed the pooch here. Any suggestions on removal?

I am thinking drill the pins out to replace with spring pins but thought I'd better stop and think for a day.

 

[grounding]

you have to hit the pins from the rear, opposite side of the (what was) threaded portion.

What year is your machine?

 

[Karl_T]

mid 50s for year, early square dial with MG set. don't remember exact date. I will try that right now.

<EDIT> can't get at it from the back side, does not line up with hole where main bearing was.

 

[Hobby Racer]

mid 50s for year, early square dial with MG set. don't remember exact date. I will try that right now.

<EDIT> can't get at it from the back side, does not line up with hole where main bearing was.

You need to slide the shaft the arms are on to the left and the right so you can drive the taper pins out from the back. I can't remember how the shaft is secured in, but you can slide it once you remove the securing mechanisms.

It took me a while to figure that out when I was rebuilding mine.

 

[Karl_T]

OK, I am stuck on removing the gear and shaft. See pic, its still in there. The <bad> bearing on the gear looks to be froze on. Might wiggle out if I could find a way to press the bearing off.

suggestions?

Or am I missing something STUPID?

 

[Cal Haines]

When you see a tapered pin that's threaded on one end, the threads are on the large end. They are there so that you can use them to jack the pin out, not to hold he pin in place.

 

[Karl_T]

learned this the hard way. school of hard knocks. Good thing is you don't forget your lessons.

Am I going to be able to buy replacement pins?

 

[Cal Haines]

McMaster-Carr (and probably other suppliers) have them: link

 

[rakort]

Ouch, seems like you went the wrong direction here and made things worse. The nut is used the pull the pin out of the taper lock. That is its only purpose. Pounding in in further just made things worse. Get the nut back on there and pray you can "pull" the taper pins out with it.

Brian

 

[rakort]

oooops looking at the picture again it appears to be too late

 

[Karl_T]

Yep, first time i ever farked up in my whole life and you caught me!

If you believe that, i got a bridge to sell you.

I set this job aside for a day and made parts. Fortunately, I got time to repair/upgrade this 10EE. Helps keep the temperature down when you can walk away when pissed or frustrated.

i plan to make a special "C" shape punch and try to drive them out. Have not got a plan "B" if that don't work.

 

[Cal Haines]

...

i plan to make a special "C" shape punch and try to drive them out. Have not got a plan "B" if that don't work.

I don't know if you have the space for it, but one of my favorite methods of pressing out a tapered pin is to use a bearing ball (BB), a washer, a machinist’s parallel clamp and some hot-glue to make a simple press. I hot-glue the washer to the side of the shaft with the large end of the taper pin:

a 0.200” spacer from a round space block set works well as a washer.

I hot-glue the BB to the tip of the parallel clamp:


The clamp and BB are then lined up on the small end of the taper pin and the opposing washer and the clamp is tightened to press on the pin and loosen it:


Instead of the machinist's clamp, an automotive ball joint separator (link) might also work and you wouldn't need the washer, just the BB:

 

[pat pounden]

I don't know if you have the space for it, but one of my favorite methods of pressing out a tapered pin is to use a bearing ball (BB), a washer, a machinist’s parallel clamp and some hot-glue to make a simple press. I hot-glue the washer to the side of the shaft with the large end of the taper pin:
View attachment 391000
a 0.200” spacer from a round space block set works well as a washer.

I hot-glue the BB to the tip of the parallel clamp:
View attachment 391001

The clamp and BB are then lined up on the small end of the taper pin and the opposing washer and the clamp is tightened to press on the pin and loosen it:
View attachment 391002

Instead of the machinist's clamp, an automotive ball joint separator (link) might also work and you wouldn't need the washer, just the BB:

never saw one of these--only pickleforks!

 

[Karl_T]

Thanks to everyone's advice, I got it apart. spent a couple hours making a custom "C" clamp. probably over built it by a factor of ten. Pins came right out.

 

[rakort]

For the win!

 

[Superbowl]

Nice recovery.

 

[Karl_T]

One last question before closing out this thread.

Are gasket sets sold for this back gear?
If not has anyone drawn them up? I could waterjet out a bunch.

 

[Hobby Racer]

Here you go!

These are the files from when I laser cut gaskets for my 10EE back gear. There are SVG and PDF files in the attached zip file. I separated the different gaskets by color as I put multiple gaskets on a each page to conserve material.

 

[Hobby Racer]

Here are the back gear gasket templates in DXF format in case anyone needs them. Each gasket is in a separate file this time. I just grabbed every file I have that used "Gearbox" in the name so there might one or two that don't belong to the back gear set.

NOTE: These were made from rubbings taken from my 1942 Round Dial 10EE so they may not be a perfect fit for your machine.

 

[Karl_T]

I will cut them 5 deep on the 'jet. Four sets FREE to members here, priority to anyone helping me in this thread.

May be a while, paying jobs get priority on my son's jet.

Karl