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Thin cutoff wheels for surface grinder

Dthompson1179

Plastic
Joined
Dec 28, 2020
I have a small diameter grooving/cutoff job to do on the surface grinder. My grinder fits a maximum 6” wheel under the guard with a standard 1 1/4” arbor hub. I want a .035" (or thinner) cutoff wheel

I can find a 7 inch x .035 cutoff disc with a 1 1/4” arbor hole but it will not fit under my guard, and trying to dress it down seems a bit sketchy

I can find 4 and 5 inch x .035 cutoff discs but they have 7/8” arbor hole

I can find a 6 inch x .035 disc with a 1 1/4” arbor but they are $200-$300 and diamond, I want a conventional abrasive disc

So, does anyone know where to find an appropriate sized disc, or an adapter to run smaller arbored cutoff discs on a standard spindle?
 
Great thank you! Found them on their website, part number 6A32...so now I know they exist...where do you buy them from? Only place I see online only sells in 50 packs
 
McMaster has a .06" width, 6" diam., 1-1/4 cut off wheel

Travers, MSC, and Zoro have the .035" wide wheels at a higher price. These are USA made reinforced wheels.
Unreinforced wheels must be used with a pair of 5" diameter aluminum add on flanges for your wheel adapter.
It is a good idea to use them for the reinforced wheels as well. They will reduce the cutoff wheel run out.
Here is a example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/354400205199
 
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Thanks Robert...Mcmaster only has .062 thickness alu ox which is too thick for what I'm doing, or the $250 diamond one...but you are right, I did find the right .035" thick size on MSC. Mcmaster is my normal go-to so if they don't have what I'm looking for I guess I assume the other distributors wont either, thanks for the reply (y)
 
Hi Dthompson1179:
Do you need the slot to be accurate?
If you do the cutoff wheel is not a good choice.
You will not get an 0.035" wide slot from an 0.035" wide cutoff wheel.
It'll probably be closer to 0.040"

If you need it accurate, the way to do is to dress an aluminum oxide wheel to thickness.
It's tedious and messy but it's accurate.

Cheers

Marcus
www.implant-mechanix.com
www.vancouverwireedm.com
 
Seems like they should go on, or buy the ones Larry or Robert mentioned.
They are crazy tricky to put on, any sideways bending may break them ..also you can't hold the wheel to tighten them.
Good to do most of the down feed on the grind-side/ not the climb side (grinding traveling the part to
toward the right). Just handling a .o35 cut-off wheel is tricky not to break it. when grinding they are pretty tough.

* watch out that you don't grind/cut into your chuck*
 
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I use them all the time, 6" x .035 x 1-1/4
Brand is Falcon, they're only a few bucks.
Hello Larry, it's been a few years since you posted this, but, is this Falcon Tool Co that you referred to here? Here in 2022, I'm not finding that sort of product (6" x 0.035 x 1-1/4 blade). Thanks--Charley Hale, Colo
 
I
I can find a 7 inch x .035 cutoff disc with a 1 1/4” arbor hole but it will not fit under my guard, and trying to dress it down seems a bit sketchy
I use cutoff wheels like this to cut hardened materials on my surface grinder They work well, but be sure to buy a handful of extras. I have broken cutoff wheels, in spite of being careful in handling and use.
 
Certainly good to double-wrench parting wheels, trying to hand-hold the wheel to tighten is often a failure.
Some parting wheels can be slow feed to the part and self-dress the OD, but you have to come into the grind side, not the climb side of the part. The down feed can be better for self-dressing because easier to control. They have to have blotters and be tight.

When cutting right off flipping the part bottom side up can save grinding into your chuck.

I knew guys who would break them just by taking them out of the box.
 
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Q: (I wonder if you could hold sheet metal on the mag vise* and score it with a cutoff disk for hand bending.) * do you mean mag chuck?

Yes, I have done that many times, but there is danger of cutting into your chuck, \. so you need to devise a system. Down feed only on the grind-side / pay attention to your down-feed amount / lay a spotter on the right side of the part are some caution methods... flip the part and cut half from one side and half from the other side another caution method.

If making a common habit of close parting then a carbide (bump into) spotter might be added off and level to your chuck.

Parting wheels wear quickly on the OD so you have to pay attention to that. They are very tough but if not tight can spin and break, or damage your wheel mount.

Oh, and how you use them be sure the part will not tighten/pinch on the wheel.
-->Holding in a vise might crimp the wheel when it cuts near through
 
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Q: (I wonder if you could hold sheet metal on the mag vise* and score it with a cutoff disk for hand bending.) * do you mean mag chuck?

Yes, I have done that many times, but there is danger of cutting into your chuck, \. so you need to devise a system. Down feed only on the grind-side / pay attention to your down-feed amount / lay a spotter on the right side of the part are some caution methods... flip the part and cut half from one side and half from the other side another caution method.

If making a common habit of close parting then a carbide (bump into) spotter might be added off and level to your chuck.

Parting wheels wear quickly on the OD so you have to pay attention to that. They are very tough but if not tight can spin and break, or damage your wheel mount.

Oh, and how you use them be sure the part will not tighten/pinch on the wheel.
-->Holding in a vise might crimp the wheel when it cuts near through
Never for parting, only for scoring. I have figured your terminology out before, but the grind side is with the table traversing the opposite way from the bottom of the wheel? So the wheel can't try to pull the table?
 
Good topic for sure. Cutoff wheels can be very useful and very finicky at the same time. It'll get your attention when one decides it's had enough, don't ask how I know.
 
lay a spotter on the right side of the part

If making a common habit of close parting then a carbide (bump into) spotter might be added off and level to your chuck.
Buck, for us inexperienced guys, could you explain what a spotter is and how it's used?

I've learned so much from all these grinding threads, thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience!
 
Q: (Buck, could you explain what a spotter is and how it's used?)
A spotter is anything that sets on/in your setup or activity that alerts you that a certain milestone has been met. Common in grinding is a size gauge or a done part set on the mag chuck so when you make or near contact you see it and so know when to stop/or have made size.
I set a tab of tape on a spotter and so will know at +.003 or with a double-tape +.006.. then a grease pencil stripe allows find with not removing from the mag to measure.
Spotting allows one to hog-grind and then fine-grind right to size, with not taking a part off the chuck to measure.
A block topped with a grub-screw-held tapered slide is good for a surface grinder or Blanchard.
A micro switch, battery and bulb can be the bump stop on a mill.
Another odd spotter is a flashlight with a probe that when it gets to + something the light will flash.
For the cut-off wheel, the spotter might be a blade of carbide so when your wheel starts bumping on it, it will begin rough dressing the OD of the wheel.

Common that a grinding job will take three times longer if you have to measure the part three times...and 4 times longer with reaching up to repost a DRO.

Grind side ->So the wheel can't try to pull the table? is correct
 
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