Tiebar Hendey gearbox disassembly question

[Straightedge]

I've been working slowly at getting my old 20 x 8 Hendey into pieces. I'm a bit stuck on this one and hope another Hendey owner who has trod this road ahead of me can give the quick answer. The driveshaft into the quick-change gearbox has a collar on the right-hand end. Unlike the other collars that have holes for engaging with a pin-spanner, this collar has a metal pin where the holes would be. There are no heads on the pins, so I assume they are not threaded. One end is a little mushroomed, so I tapped, then hammered on the opposite end with a drive-pin punch trying to get it out. It feels absolutely solid. I'm trying not to damage anything needlessly here. Anyone have some experience with getting this part removed?

 

[sealark37]

It may have been upset on the small end to prevent loss. You might try grinding/filing off the mushroom and then driving from that end. Good Luck, Regards, Clark

 

[Patrick Black]

It's a tapered pin. Mine is mushroomed on the big end. The small end is flush with the collar.

Pat Black

 

[Ueee]

Hi,
Tapered pins can get stuck real good. When i pulled my shaper apart, some heat from the oxy-acetyline fixed a few of them, but several had to be drilled out as they just would not budge. I think a bit of rust in the mix and they will never move.

Ewan

 

[Greg Menke]

Drilling taper pins can be a delicate business, have to stay within the pin which can be difficult when working on the casting- possibly with a portable drill. Try drill from the small end so if the bit wanders or you're not on center then maybe the increasing taper will at least keep the drill out of the surrounding material. It can be hard to find the big vs small end. Usually its the big end thats mushroomed, having been beaten on. OTOH if someone has tried removal before you then maybe the small end is beat up, essentially wedging the pin from both ends. If the other end of the pin is invisible then its likely in factory condition but the finish of the part is such that you can't see the pin. Get in close with a magnifying glass and you'll probably find it in the obvious spot. Use a brass drift if you can..

 

[johnoder]

Taper pins have big ends and little ends. In removal you only drive on the little end.

 

[jdavi581]

having taken out 120 tapered pins installed in the 60s....a portapower can be your friend. No peining, jsut make sure it has a gage on it.
Joe

 

[Straightedge]

I am liking the idea of using hydraulics to get this pin out after big hammers, lots of heat, and minor swearing have caused the pin to move <0.001" so far. Banging on the big end, just like you said, John.

 

[wineslob]

I tried to get this same pin out of our 14 X 6, but same problem, won't budge. Decided to leave it alone.

 

[Straightedge]

I pulled out the 1950s-vintage Hein Werner Pushmaster--same idea as the portapower/enerpac stuff. Trial one, just pushed on the pin from underneath, putting the ram cylinder end against the ground. It picked up the lathe. Trial 2 was to make a pushing attachment with the 2-1/4 14tpi threads on the end of the ram. Got that finished up and welded, then I dialed up 8000 psi and still nothing moved except for my pushing attachment, which despite the pretty generous dimensions still flexed before the pin moved one iota.

Never drilled a taper pin. I wonder if I'd be better off just taking the dimensions of the part and then making a few choice cuts with an oscillating/vibrating saw to get the collar off. It's destructive, but it looks like it would be an easy part to remake.

 

[jdavi581]

old-school,
I would try either a partial center-drill or grinding down the possible mushrooming on the end of the pin. Then, use your porta-power (wink wink) and make a bracket/use a chain to push on the pin. The pop (if it is the right pop!) will be well worth the time. You have to come at the problem with new eyes every day-think about how exited you were to bring it home-that kind of excitement.
Joe

 

[Greg Menke]

I'd also leave cutting the piece as a last resort- after drilling the pin has failed. If you can't find the little end then drill from the big end rather than guessing. You may end up having to drill it freehand. Anything you can set up to keep the drill aligned will help. I've had bad luck keeping the drill inside the pin, typically the drill exits half in/half-out and theres some cleanup to do.

 

[Straightedge]

Pop!

Though a couple days ago I had sort of given up on extracting the pin non-destructively, I figured that I should at least try to mitigate the flex of my pushing attachment and the pin pusher. First, I used W1 drill rod for the pusher, with the tip hardened and tempered. Then, I welded a couple scraps to my "c-clamp" and man, it's ugly, but this time I only got to 6500 psi when the pin let loose with a really loud POP! Love it!

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! Tonight, we have a victory.

 

[jdavi581]

Ah, the happy pop! looks good! I see how you modified the c-clamp-that is what I was thinking of. It doesn't take much to bend something with a portapower involved!
Joe