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Time to choose one of four taps, at this point I might go for a name ?

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
Which 9mm-1.0 tap for some 304 for a depth of no more than 3/8".
Is a one time deal for a HSS tap going to look as good as a coated tap?
Which leads to another question I hear from supply people. On comparing prices
I am asked "How many time are you going to use it?" When I say only a few times
the answer coming back is "the cheaper tap should do". So it will have a short
life. What about the cuts it would make. Would the first tapped hole be as good
as a coated tap?

Then store in the drawer marked "only used once".

Western Tool & Supply Co.

The part is a bushing for the bottom of a paint gun made in Italy.
So I assume all threads are metric. Wrong. The outside of the bushing
has a .500-20 tpi. The inside is 9mm-1.0.

The hole is through a hex piece. The hex piece screws into the paint gun body.
Then a air regulator shaft is screwed into the hex piece, the knob on the bottom
of most paint guns. Anyway, the tapped hole goes halfway down (5/16). If I had a
way to accurately make inside threads in such a small diameter hole.
 

Garwood

Diamond
Joined
Oct 10, 2009
Location
Oregon
Many folks would do this with a threadmill for M6x1.0 threads. No oddball tap you'll never ever use again needed.
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
I have adhered to a religion that says nut to use automatic down-feed and prevent holes in vises and tables.
Can this be done with precision on a BP mill. I have not done any tapping with the mill. And I have not broken
many taps.... yet. In short, never done a threadmill. When I searched for it on google they ask if I meant "tread mill".
In one of my books not even a mention.
 

FredC

Titanium
Joined
Oct 29, 2010
Location
Dewees Texas
I do not know of any way to mill the threads on a manual Bridgeport. At first I thought the part was a lathe part with 1/2 20 threads on the outside. Single pointing the internal threads would have been easy if you had metric gears for one of your lathes.
On a BP class machine you are sort of stuck with getting a tap.

I mill 3-56 threads quite regularly on a CNC lathe because the threads are so short that tapping would be a problem and done other small threads on a small CNC mill also. Never done it for a single part though too much set up for that.
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
304 loves to be rolled. But since you already bought the tap, drill the minor as large as you can, use moly dee

fwiw, I also have a box of tap shanks marked, "Only used once"

The 9mm size is so popular that the charts I have for tap drills list 8m then jump to 10mm.
Need to drill with a P drill (.323) then bore to .330.

Gun on the left is the mini model and came with a air flow adjustment rod. The extreme model on the right has a plug on the air adjustment hole.
They send an external regulator/gauge. I don't use those external regulators because of the 12% cfm reduction I measure. So I use my own
gadget which only measures air pressure.

DSC_1126.jpg

I will need to drop the air on the large gun. So I am duplicating the adjustment rod and bushing. The rod has the 9mm thread by the circular knob.
The bushing external thread is .5-20 tpi. A gun made in Italy with internal device threads in Metric and external world threads in English.

DSC_1127.jpg

Maybe some of you paint gun guys can answer why Sagola advertises that they don't use seals. They say because the connections are so precisely machined.
To me, you get a fitting made from stainless steel and you screw it into a aluminum anodized body. Natural compression (if you are a gentleman, or a
gentle man) will cause a no leak connection. But one thing I have not seen on any brand of paint gun. Sagola guns have numerous air holes at the needle tip.
One reason I bought them is for extreme atomization. Have not seen more than 4 holes at the needle in Devilbiss and Sata guns.

This cap for the mini-extreme
DSC_1130.JPG

This cap for the extreme.
DSC_1134.JPG

This Sagola bad boy is real bad.
SAGOLA 4100 XTREME PRESSURE KIT AIR CAP 20 - SmitsGroup
 
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TeachMePlease

Diamond
Joined
Feb 11, 2014
Location
FL
For a 9mm tap, no need to use automatic downfeed on the bridgeport.

Chuck 'er up, put it in back gear, run 150 or so RPM, pull the quill until it contacts the work, it'll feed itself just fine. Keep an eye on your depth and put it in reverse when you're through. Easy peasy.
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
For a 9mm tap, no need to use automatic downfeed on the bridgeport.

Chuck 'er up, put it in back gear, run 150 or so RPM, pull the quill until it contacts the work, it'll feed itself just fine. Keep an eye on your depth and put it in reverse when you're through. Easy peasy.

What happened to:
Turn by hand 1/8 turn, slight back movement to break chip, continue until done.

Besides, I have to go down a depth of 3/8" with a step-down in diameter for the rest of the through hole.
I could not make that stop point accurately because a 3-phase motor doesn't reverse instantaneously.
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
304 loves to be rolled. But since you already bought the tap, drill the minor as large as you can, use moly dee

fwiw, I also have a box of tap shanks marked, "Only used once"

Got the OSG tap this morning. The other choices were H.S.S. and a Guhring with coolant holes for $25 more.

Western Tool & Supply Co. | Threading > Taps > Spiral Flute Taps | M9X1.0 D5 3FL SP FL A-TAP TICN | OSG 1650005108

A 9mm-1.0 tap drill for stainless steel (50% thread) is 8.4mm from this chart.
A 9mm-1.0 tap drill for aluminum (75% thread) is 8mm from this chart.

https://littlemachineshop.com/images/gallery/PDF/tapdrillsizes.pdf

A aluminum thread in a SS hole.
Since I can bore the hole to whatever I want. What should I want? Use 8mm instead?
I will eventually use the stainless hex bushing to size the aluminum thread on the shaft.
A little bit of a pain when cutting the thread on centers.

DSC_1127.jpg

The 8 V-notches on the knob. Does it matter if the notches are cut first, then shape the knob profile? Or do it in reverse?
 

gregormarwick

Diamond
Joined
Feb 7, 2007
Location
Aberdeen, UK
What happened to:
Turn by hand 1/8 turn, slight back movement to break chip, continue until done.

Besides, I have to go down a depth of 3/8" with a step-down in diameter for the rest of the through hole.
I could not make that stop point accurately because a 3-phase motor doesn't reverse instantaneously.

The whole point of spiral point or spiral flute machine taps is to make a continuous chip that comes out of the hole by itself. Spiral point taps push the chip out the other side of a through hole, spiral point taps pull the chip out the top of a blind hole.

Backing off the break the chip completely defeats the purpose of them, and also leads to chipped teeth especially on spiral flute taps.
 

johfoster

Cast Iron
Joined
Dec 15, 2016
I am confused about what you are doing, or maybe why you are doing it? When I used to paint automotive a decade plus ago I would have a regulator on the air input, and often no gauge at all just a regulating knob. Set it to what sprays well and go. It takes a good air supply to paint, and if losing 12% of your flow put you below an acceptable level then you already don't have enough to begin with for consistent results.

The standard for a lot of people I knew at the time was a SATA gun for base and an Iwata for clear. Not familiar with the Sagola brand, and it looks quality though I don't see anything remarkable or different about it. There are different air cap configurations for all those brands.
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
I am confused about what you are doing, or maybe why you are doing it? When I used to paint automotive a decade plus ago I would have a regulator on the air input, and often no gauge at all just a regulating knob. Set it to what sprays well and go. It takes a good air supply to paint, and if losing 12% of your flow put you below an acceptable level then you already don't have enough to begin with for consistent results.

The standard for a lot of people I knew at the time was a SATA gun for base and an Iwata for clear. Not familiar with the Sagola brand, and it looks quality though I don't see anything remarkable or different about it. There are different air cap configurations for all those brands.

The Sagola is a lousy name for a paint gun. I bought a couple of them for the air cap design and the light weight.
They are a cool color for the anodize and there appears to be no visible mistakes. Otherwise a Sata or Iwata is just as good.
Some of those higher end models probably are better than my Sagolas.

BTW, Painting auto body panels is different than painting electrical box size stuff, or things with lots of different surfaces.
The gun has to be adjusted down or up to get the coverage the same. That is the reason for the air control assembly.
 

TeachMePlease

Diamond
Joined
Feb 11, 2014
Location
FL
What happened to:
Turn by hand 1/8 turn, slight back movement to break chip, continue until done.

Besides, I have to go down a depth of 3/8" with a step-down in diameter for the rest of the through hole.
I could not make that stop point accurately because a 3-phase motor doesn't reverse instantaneously.

I dunno, it went away with the dodo? It's a freaking NINE MILLIMETER TAP!

I was power tapping 4-40 in 304 stainless when I was an apprentice. Yes, I broke a couple, before I learned how to do it right. I think you can manage to power tap a freaking NINE MILLIMETER thread. And nobody said you have to go to depth, take it .100" shy and finish by hand if the depth is that critical.
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
I dunno, it went away with the dodo? It's a freaking NINE MILLIMETER TAP!

I was power tapping 4-40 in 304 stainless when I was an apprentice. Yes, I broke a couple, before I learned how to do it right. I think you can manage to power tap a freaking NINE MILLIMETER thread. And nobody said you have to go to depth, take it .100" shy and finish by hand if the depth is that critical.

In this case the depth is 0.298. I might try power tapping with a cheaper tap. Or I can try with this one again, because I will probably not use it for a long time.
Like ARVIN rifles, not fired but just dropped once...
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
The air adjustment valve on the right is what I made. Cleaned with Bonderite C-IC 33 and coated with Bonderite M-CR 1001. Not as clear as I thought it would look.

DSC_1177.jpg
 

barbter

Diamond
Joined
Oct 27, 2007
Location
On Tour...
For a 9mm tap, no need to use automatic downfeed on the bridgeport.

Chuck 'er up, put it in back gear, run 150 or so RPM, pull the quill until it contacts the work, it'll feed itself just fine. Keep an eye on your depth and put it in reverse when you're through. Easy peasy.

Yeh - don't forget to first ensure the quill stop is wound far enough out the way.... :willy_nilly:
 

dian

Titanium
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Location
ch
just the other day i was telling somebody i never saw a m9 thread and probably never will. weird.
 








 
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