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Tooling a Starrett Master Height Gage - what uses?

That's a good idea. It raises and interesting question. I've never gone looking for 25-50-75mm blocks, but I suppose someone must make them. An application like this where you're subtracting an inch from a metric height gage reading would be annoying.

Mild steel would be fine for spacer blocks. 20mm would be a nice round number for metric.
 
I have my Starrett, 24" Vernier so that is probably good to +/-0.002" to that point. I have found that it sits nicely on top of my 2-4-6 blocks so it can be extended another 12" for 36" in all. Since those blocks are not exact size, I have to measure them first and adjust the readout on the height gauge appropriately. So, beyond 24" I am probably at +/-0.003" for the first six additional inches and +/-0.004" for the next six. Perhaps not good enough for rocket science, but a lot better than a carpenter's tape measure which can be off a full 1/16" or even more even at the 24" point.

This process of extending the range of the Starrett height gauge could be improved by using a DI mounted on it or on my smaller one and making comparative readings between the 2-4-6 blocks and my shop blocks. That would give me a better accuracy on the measurements of those blocks. If I really needed it and had the time to go through all the needed steps, I am sure I could reduce the overall error at 24" to well under 0.001" and between 24" and 36" to, perhaps 0.0015" or less.

Technique counts for a lot here.



The "better" ones are the TALLEST ones. Used bargains are good for seldom-used kit.

Bad day, you have to work over 24" and have to go from a precise vernier or electronic all the way down to an ignorant carpenter's steel tape- nothing in-between.

Whatever you use OFTEN, is OK to have battery-powered that can pushbutton zero, switch US and Metric, etc.
 
The Vernier protractor attaches to the big Starrett gage,
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