Tungsten Tip getting deposit on it, what is up?

[laminar-flow]

I am welding some 303 stainless with argon and only after a minute the tungsten gets a deposit on it as shown in the image. The arc gets weird and I have to re-grind it. Any idea what is going on and how to prevent it?

 

[Matt@RFR]

Your material or filler is dirty. Or you have a gas leak or bad gas.

EDIT: Shit, I read 304, not 303. 303 is not great to weld. Undercuts galore and the weld will be brittle in my experience. 309 filler may help you. Clean everything like your life depends on it, and I sincerely hope no one's life depends on these welds.

 

[laminar-flow]

The welds look fine. Welding the end of a .250 pin in a hole on a .250 thick plate. Not using filler, just doing the edge light on purpose in case the pins ever need to be changed. Doing a bunch of them. Not critical at all. Parts might have some veggie residual water soluble coolant on them from the CNC but feel just fine to the touch. The pins are from Fastenal so maybe 18-8. I'll clean a few and see what happens. The only issue is having to stop and re-grind the tungsten.

 

[plastikdreams]

I've seen dirty material jump to the tungsten but I've never seen what you are showing...interesting.

 

[kenton]

Are you running AC for some reason?

 

[laminar-flow]

Nope, DC. 70 amps. Welds look fine. It might be some low quality pins. How about pre-flow, I have it on about .5 seconds as I'm trying to speed things up. I have about 900 of these to do.

 

[akjeff]

Maybe try lighting up on just the pin, and just the part, and see which one ( if either ) is causing the issue? Maybe you have a bad bottle of gas?

 

[Bondo]

Your welding 303 stainless. That is the issue at hand.

303 is a machining stainless, not a good welding stainless. Due to the Sulphur in it, it can actually explode like hitting a trapped gas pocket. I changed from making stand offs from 303 to 304 because of the pain tig welding it

 

[laminar-flow]

Yep, that was the issue. I found some 304L and it does not build up a deposit on the tungsten. Welds look a bit brighter also. The 303 welds are decent, but a bit dark flat grey. This must be some really crummy 303 because the last batch a year ago didn't do this as much. The 18-8 pins don't help either. The 303 will still work but one has to re-grind more often when the arc gets to be trouble. Thanks everyone.

 

[laminar-flow]

Also, this is a 0.063 Ø Ceriated Tungsten

 

[DrHook]

Try a different Tungsten. That ceriated is pretty good all-around stuff, but it seems to do funky stuff for me at random, and doesn't live long, whether it gets dipped or not. When I get tired of fighting it, I revert to Thoriated, and go to town.

 

[technocrat]

I see that on 316 if it is not completely clean. I'm using pulse tig on thin sheet with 2% lanthanated tungsten at about 30A, with no filler rod. The material is visibly clean and I'm careful, but not paranoid about handling it. If I don't acetone clean before welding, then I see short electrode life with that kind of deposit about 1 of 3 welds.

 

[Nmbmxer]

Is the cup clean? I’ve had dirty cups contaminate the tungsten like that after hitting some zinc plating etc.

 

[laminar-flow]

Well, figured it out. Welding the 304 did help, but that was not entirely it. It was the lens. The lens had some accumulation of something around the center copper bushing, but the screen looked fine and did pass gas. But it must have been either contaminated or partially blocked and causing some air to mix with the argon. Welds look great now, bright and shiny and the tungsten stays sharp with no buildup.

So now the question is, is there lenses with improved flow or whatever that is better than the ones I am using?

 

[Cole2534]

Well, figured it out. Welding the 304 did help, but that was not entirely it. It was the lens. The lens had some accumulation of something around the center copper bushing, but the screen looked fine and did pass gas. But it must have been either contaminated or partially blocked and causing some air to mix with the argon. Welds look great now, bright and shiny and the tungsten stays sharp with no buildup.

So now the question is, is there lenses with improved flow or whatever that is better than the ones I am using?

I REALLY like my Jazzy 10 lenses from Furick. Great coverage and the body size is a good standoff, however they may be a little more fragile. I've yet to break one, but they just look more fragile than a traditional setup.

 

[laminar-flow]

I'll look at those. Are there any other manufacturers of TIG cups and lenses I should look at? I do mainly smaller welding than big stuff.

 

[Cole2534]

I'll look at those. Are there any other manufacturers of TIG cups and lenses I should look at? I do mainly smaller welding than big stuff.

Anything sold on Jody's web store is going to be good stuff. Weldmonger Store

 

[MrWhoopee]

After using ceriated tungstens for a while, I was given some thoriated. I have found them to be MUCH more tolerant of contamination. I'm just not that steady, so it makes a big difference. More time welding, less time sharpening.

 

[Cole2534]

After using ceriated tungstens for a while, I was given some thoriated. I have found them to be MUCH more tolerant of contamination. I'm just not that steady, so it makes a big difference. More time welding, less time sharpening.

I've had great luck with some E3s from the Airgas brand Radnor.

 

[BT Fabrication]

I REALLY like my Jazzy 10 lenses from Furick. Great coverage and the body size is a good standoff, however they may be a little more fragile. I've yet to break one, but they just look more fragile than a traditional setup.

the ones from CK work well with the clear cup also. just stuck to a number 6 glass cup or alumina in a couple sizes. helped smooth out the gas flow.

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