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U6HEAT WIRE BREAK

  • Thread starter Thread starter G8TER
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G8TER

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HELLO ALL
I'm new to the edm world and this forum.I have been running aluminum parts in a u6heat well for past 2 weeks.I started getting wire breaks all of a sudden. I adjusted energizers, cleaned rollers, flipped the tension roller (i believe its the correct name), cleaned and made sure the pinch roller had no wear, took apart k-roller and cleaned, followed all the maintenance on the edm assist page correctly i think. Wire keeps breaking in or right under the part. I have no idea where to go from here. any help would be greatly appreciated!! thanks!!
 
Water resistance?
Filters clogged?

Aluminum is very "dirty" while cutting, and can clog up filters super fast.
 
Meter for the filters in green below .2 mark... my book says alarm sets off at .25... as far as water resistance goes im not entirely sure what you mean. i cleaned the thread jet and v guides... the flushing seems to be working well
 
I don't run a Makino, but somewhere there should be a readout showing the resistance of the water itself, and somewhere you should have a "normal" resistance level.

If it is too low on my Sodick AG600Ls I can end up getting extra wire breaks.
 
HELLO ALL
I'm new to the edm world and this forum.I have been running aluminum parts in a u6heat well for past 2 weeks.I started getting wire breaks all of a sudden. I adjusted energizers, cleaned rollers, flipped the tension roller (i believe its the correct name), cleaned and made sure the pinch roller had no wear, took apart k-roller and cleaned, followed all the maintenance on the edm assist page correctly i think. Wire keeps breaking in or right under the part. I have no idea where to go from here. any help would be greatly appreciated!! thanks!!

I'm assuming that "energizers" are the same as "contacts" - the little pieces of carbide in the heads that provide electric juice to the wire?

What's the condition of the aluminum? Does it have a heavy anodize/oxidization layer that's preventing good grounding to the table?

What's your wire look like? Does it roll out straight, or does it curl even after going through the tensioning/annealing rolls? I've had bad spools of wire that weren't heat-treated properly. Comes off the roll tight like a coil spring, whips around, and stabs you in the thumb.
 
If the contacts are OK, then a few things to try first.
Back-down on the EZ-Cut a couple of clicks.
Increase the wire speed.

Without knowing when it started to have problems or how it ran before, it is hard to judge what to look for.
Which type of drive system you have? The double V groove roller or the servo brake?
 
I'm assuming that "energizers" are the same as "contacts" - the little pieces of carbide in the heads that provide electric juice to the wire?

What's the condition of the aluminum? Does it have a heavy anodize/oxidization layer that's preventing good grounding to the table?

What's your wire look like? Does it roll out straight, or does it curl even after going through the tensioning/annealing rolls? I've had bad spools of wire that weren't heat-treated properly. Comes off the roll tight like a coil spring, whips around, and stabs you in the thumb.

Yes, I believe the "contacts" are the same as "energizers". Aluminum seems to be clean. I've sped the wire up and slowed the feed before after a piece sat over the weekend and had that oxidization or whatever that build up was to get past where it left off. I couldn't get passed where I left off until I did that. The wire seems to be fine. No curls or anything out of the ordinary I've seen yet. I have only went through about 15 spools so far. Pretty new at this.
 
If the contacts are OK, then a few things to try first.
Back-down on the EZ-Cut a couple of clicks.
Increase the wire speed.

Without knowing when it started to have problems or how it ran before, it is hard to judge what to look for.
Which type of drive system you have? The double V groove roller or the servo brake?
I appreciate the info! I have tried the EZ-Cut thing and increased the wire speed as well as slowed the feed. As far as the drive system, I'm not entirely sure. I don't recall reading or doing anything with a servo break. I'd guess its a double V groove. When I get back to work tomorrow I will do some digging. We got this thing in and have just been fumbling my way through it. Thanks again!
 
I don't run a Makino, but somewhere there should be a readout showing the resistance of the water itself, and somewhere you should have a "normal" resistance level.

If it is too low on my Sodick AG600Ls I can end up getting extra wire breaks.
By resistance are you talking about the conductivity? Fluid levels check out. I have a meter for conductivity and that is reading in the correct operation range. Thanks again for help!
 
As far as the drive system, I'm not entirely sure. I don't recall reading or doing anything with a servo break. I'd guess its a double V groove.
The "servo brake" drive system uses a flat neoprene roller with a ceramic pinch roller on a servo motor.
The older style is a double Vee neoprene roller and is mounted on a powder brake.

If it is the latter, remove the Vee roller and check on a shadowgraph to make sure that the depth of the Vee grooves are the same.
If one is more worn than the other, you can get extra tension on the wire and break it at it's weakest point.
 
Figured I'd give an update... I wasn't aware on how to change wire feed and machine speed other than using the EZ-cut bar to slow or speed up machining process. Simply sped up wire and slowed machining speed each by a little bit in the conditions page and has been running great the past week. It still hard to understand that was the problem seeing everything went smooth for a few weeks before this problem. Thanks again everyone
 
Figured I'd give an update... I wasn't aware on how to change wire feed and machine speed other than using the EZ-cut bar to slow or speed up machining process. Simply sped up wire and slowed machining speed each by a little bit in the conditions page and has been running great the past week. It still hard to understand that was the problem seeing everything went smooth for a few weeks before this problem. Thanks again everyone
I would reach out to Makino with what was happening and how you solved it, becuase it sounds like you haven't actually solved whatever was causing the problem. You have instead found a work around that is solving the issue right now, but my experience on my Sodick machines says the issue may come back.
 
G8TER,

Have you contacted Makino Technical Support at 1-888-625-4664 about your Wire Break issues?

It sounds like you have addressed and inspected all the usual mechanical component suspects, but have you tried the following?

Have you tried a different Spool of wire to see if your Wire Break issues continue?
While it is rare, a bad spool of wire does occur every now and again. As BajaFire noted, some wire spool issues occur as a result of a wire manufacturing process issue (bad annealing, extremely dirty, etc.), and it is common to see both wire break and wire threading issues with a bad spool. I have also seen bad spools of wire where the wire itself is contaminated, damaged, or heavily oxidized (this could be from the wire not being covered properly during transit or storage, or from being someone's Old-Stock). I have also seen issues with physical damage to a Wire Spool as a result from shipping to where the outer flanges are tweaked and compressing the wire on the spool. Another "I can't believe I missed that" thing to check is to ensure that the Wire Spool Nut is properly tightened and holding the spool in place (for obvious reasons)! And this brings me to my last suggestion that is Wire Spool related...have you checked the wire spool to see if the wire isn't wrapped underneath itself on the spool? This situation can be difficult to spot, but if the wire is somehow wrapped underneath itself, it will create extra drag and tension that will result in Wire Breaks (I share in the frustration of all Operators that have experienced this!).

What Wire Type and Spool size are you using? Hoping that you machine has the longer/wider Rollers that are included with the 16kg/35# Spool Option, as these spools are longer in length than the P5 (11lbs.) and P10 (22 lbs.) spools.

D-Shaft Tension Roller:
It appears that you have cleaned and inspected the main brake D-Shaft Roller and eliminated it as being a source issue (wire is not slipping on this roller). Have you checked and confirmed the Wire Tensions? If the Wire Tension is too high or too low, it can result in Wire Breaks.

DI-System:
Have you confirmed that your water conductivity level is within the proper range (15um/cm)? If the water Conductivity level is out of wack, your machining will be VERY unstable with many Wire Breaks, and the water will begin to pick up a "fishy" smell. There is a function on the OTHERS page that tells the machine to ignore the current Water Conductivity Level. This function [W Cond Skip], which means Water Conductivity Skip, is intended to bypass the Conductivity Alarm and allow you to override the machine so that you can complete whatever job is running on the machine when the "Replace DI-Resin" Alarm occurs. I have seen where Operators forget to turn this function OFF, which would allow the Water Conductivity to get out of balance to where it should be.

- Brian
 
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