Underlayment under a vise. Waxed paper, anything else, or bad idea/

[rons]

Vices and tables are not that flat, so when you tighten them down there will be small gaps. Not big gaps but they are there. I feel good about the food grade antiseize filling those gaps and staying there. Any type of paper or plastic shim will still allow fluid in via capillary action. It only takes a gap of a few tenths for coolant to get in. The hold downs clamping force is not really enough to compress the paper or plastic under the entire vice evenly.

The rebuilds that checker peck the top of a table...
In my opinion it's done to hide a drilled/cutup table top.
Lot's of surface area that never touches the bottom of a vise. Intentional oil pockets.

 

[rons]

Liquid waxed paper AKA LPS-3 or grease.

Good price? Spray or aerosol?

What about this:

Gunk M914 Silicone Lubricant, 11 oz Aerosol Can, Clear to Slight Yellow Liquid

Gunk M914 Silicone Lubricant, 11 oz Aerosol Can, Clear to Slight Yellow Liquid.

www.plumbersstock.com

 

[Scruffy887]

Boeshield from The Rust store.
Spray it on with a dusting of valve grinding compound if you want your vises to remain stationary while hogging with a CAT 100 75 pound face mill.
I just use the Boeshield. On a lot of surfaces. Spray on and let it dry.

 

[metalmagpie]

Seems to me I heard about some magical product Froglube used for this purpose. Then someone discovered it's mostly coconut oil. So that's the next thing I'm going to try.

 

[eKretz]

Seems to me I heard about some magical product Froglube used for this purpose. Then someone discovered it's mostly coconut oil. So that's the next thing I'm going to try.

I've got a tin of that. Haven't used it for anything yet. Been sitting in the gun safe for a dog's age by now. Boeshield or LPS3 is much better IMO, if only for the fact that you can spray it on evenly and quickly. Froglube is more like butter in consistency.

 

[reggie_obe]

If you want to prevent cutting fluid from getting under the vise and corroding the table, Electricians Duct Seal or Plumbers Putty would create a liquid tight flexible barrier between the edge of the vise and the table.

 

[mhajicek]

I've used Crown Toolsaver spray with good results.

 

[Thunderjet]

We've had a problem with our magnetic chucks getting rusty underneath and healing up after a while.

The last time I removed and cleaned them, I applied a fairly good coating of machine grade grease on the underside. Enough that when the toe clamps were tightened, it squeezed out. This has served us well for about four months now, with no signs of distortion.

Before this, it only took a month or so before the chuck would heal anywhere from .001 to .003 in any one corner, thereby driving me INSANE.

 

[laminar-flow]

Doing a deep clean of the Haas TM1 and was wondering how long or short to go between removing all the vises and re-lubing underneath them after a good clean. I have been using Hangsterfer's 5030 which was great except for the sticky residue. I'm changing coolant now to ChemArrow SYN-722. Selecting it because it is approved by one of my high vac customers. Here are some images after removing the three chucks. The 5030 is greenish because I was cutting copper and brass.

 

[Mtndew]

Is that just a stain? Should be easily cleaned up with some WD and a palm stone.
Pretty much unavoidable in my experience.

 

[EPAIII]

Oh.

In Hollywood it's called "Visual Effects".

 

[laminar-flow]

Here is the table cleaned up. The spot on the left is rust. It happened a while back under a chuck back plate that was not solid but had a ring around it that made all but that small ring above the surface. It was down for several years and a few times, because of the sticky Hangsterfer's 5030, I poured the low concentration hot makeup water on the table to loosen up the stuck chips. That low concentration makeup water must have made its way under that side of the T slot under the chuck back plate and you see the results. The rest of the staining in the earlier post came off with a bit of scotchbrite. Both the center chuck and the right rectangular chuck mounting plate have completely flat bottoms so nothing can get trapped under it. This clean up project is still on-going. Ugh.

 

[DMF_TomB]

Somebody said that he used butcher paper under his vise to prevent the creeping vise print stains on the table (underneath the vise).
I used brown shopping bag which is .006 thick. I assumed it would compress equally and all would be ok. But waxed paper is thinner
and not going to soak oil. Or is it better to live with vise prints?

Signed,
Trying to keep metal bright and shinny half my life.

Brush plating nickel, using a DC powersource with voltage and amp control (usually <$200),
brush often just Stainless sheet metal connected to DC power wrapped in cotton
clothe held with rubber band. cotton soaked in chemical
1) to clean metal, often use electro clean is a chemcal dip into small plastic cup and
then rub on part generally <6 volts
2) did in electrode nickel and rub on part again usually <6 volts and you deposit
a nickel coating usually <.0002" often takes many dips of brush and part rubbing
to electroplate more than .001" just dipping brush periodically in chemicals
3) back in the past I would then dip in 3rd gold plating solution then brush / rub on gold
plating to fill scratches in mirror finish cylindrical printing press rolls. by using adhesive
backed sandpaper and or plastic lapping film stuck to ground metal lapping blocks I would
rub the gold plate color off leaving just gold in the scratches. micron sand paper lapping
film can sand to mirror finish although often 400 grit was fine enough.
........ probably can skip the gold as nickel plating being enough for minor corrosion protection
.... think of it as a electric magic marker but rather than red ink rubbing on electroplated
metal...... by the way using masking tape if cannot pull plating off with tape generally
plating stuck on good enough. also used on lathe to build up worn shafts so bearings fit
tight again (plastic tray under to catch chemical drips as part slowly rotates). usually overplate
than grind to size as turning might just peel plating off like aluminum foil tape.
....Sifco been in brush plating business since WW2 I believe

Choosing the Right Nickel for Your Brush Plating Application - SIFCO Applied Surface Concepts

Today’s demanding industrial applications require well-engineered and proven deposits that pose as little risk as possible to both the operator and the environment. Brush plating can be used to apply a variety of nickel deposits including nickel acid, nickel high-speed and sulfamate nickel as...

www.sifcoasc.com

 

[???]

The spray that is used on injection molds to protect them during storage. I've tried all types of greases on the Haas but it doesn't seem to make a difference. I have noticed that my Kira is less prone to rusting and stains running the same coolant.

Link to product below. Ask a local molding shop for the version in your location. So far I've worked in 4 countries and they each have their own version.

Tool & Die Protector Online | DIEPROTECTOR | Hales Australia

hales.com.au

 

[dgfoster]

So, you typically tram your vise, bolt it down, and never mover it for years at a time? ‘Twer me, I’d just use some two-part (single part would be OK) RTV Silicone under the vise as I bolted it down. It would make a water-tight gasket that would resist most liquids.

Link to chemical resistance of silicones

It would release easily enough when you decide to do your next “pentannual“ cleanup.

Denis

 

[Scruffy887]

A vise "shadow"? 4 vises on one VMC for about 24 years straight, maybe 20 on another. Shadow an issue for somebody else.

 

[GrindCraft]

Doing a deep clean of the Haas TM1 and was wondering how long or short to go between removing all the vises and re-lubing underneath them after a good clean. I have been using Hangsterfer's 5030 which was great except for the sticky residue. I'm changing coolant now to ChemArrow SYN-722. Selecting it because it is approved by one of my high vac customers. Here are some images after removing the three chucks. The 5030 is greenish because I was cutting copper and brass.

I've been using ChemArrow Syn-722, seems like you are switching over from a semi-synthetic to a full synthetic. How has that impacted your finish? I am on the cusp of purchasing a semi-synthetic I keep getting finishes that do not rival the competition. I also do grinding and not milling but I am curious if you see any difference.

 

[laminar-flow]

Since I just got it in the TM1, and I've only cut 316 SS, I am not sure yet. I can't imagine it would be much different in tool life or finish though. Do you have noticed different finished in milling?

 

[GrindCraft]

I have only tried SYN-722, and I am considering using a semi-synthetic to see if there is an improvement in the finish. I am starting to question the wear of the bearings on my machine.