using turcite

[porthos]

my 6x48 belt sander has a .016-.018 dip in the center. i was thinking that i could use turcite to "level" it. my thoughts are to spread the turcite epoxy around; then cover it with wax paper. then lay my granite surface plate over it to flatten the epoxy . never used turcite before; any thoughts or suggestions??

 

[TGTool]

Turcite is a sheet product available in different thicknesses so is not what you need.

You're probably thinking of Moglice, a pourable/spreadable product designed for way lining. I don't know how well it withstands the belt friction and abrasive environment of a belt sander. Others may have some real world experience of restoring sander platens.

 

[johansen]

Consider an experiment before you waste your time and money.

Buy a sheet of adhesive backed polyethylene in 1/32” thickness and see if it holds up.

 

[Milland]

While your thought of using a "Moglice"-like product probably won't work due to rapid wear, you could try using a uniform layer of epoxy in a similar way, but with a layer of spring steel sheet (say .030") as the actual wear surface.

Either align the steel sheet carefully when placing the belt sander over it, or leave it oversize and trim to size afterwards. Be sure to round over the leading and trailing edges to allow the belt to run over them without scraping or excessive bending during use.

 

[Richard King]

I wouldn't recommend either Turcite or Moglice to have an sanding belt rub against it. Mattison Surface grinder company filed bankruptcy because Mogice worn down fast and it plugged up the oil holes. Turcite is designed to run against lubricated cast iron ways. That belt would wear it and it would get HOT. Buy some sheet metal and tack weld it on the edges or just make a new part.

 

[wheels17]

My belt sander has an aluminum platen covered with a spring steel plate backed with about 1/16" cork. Since 1978.

The leading edge of the platen kicks away from the belt at 45 degrees to provide an attachment point for the spring steel.

You could use one of the polymer filling compounds on the platen, and then follow Milland's suggestion.

 

[Milland]

Rich brings up a good point - if you use epoxy, make sure it's high-temp rated. Lotta friction/heat where the belt rubs.

 

[michiganbuck]

Qt Op: (my 6x48 belt sander has a .016-.018 dip in the center.)
You might be able to just surface-grind out a small dip

Qt Richard(Buy some sheet metal and tack weld it on the edges)
or just screw the sheet metal plate in place with flat heads, that way you can restore flatness every 15 years or so.

 

[James H Clark]

I think most good platens are chrome plated.
JH

 

[porthos]

thanks for the information. i know a surface grinder would be best. (if i had one) i'll check locally if anyone would do it.

 

[ratbldr427]

There's a material made just for that .Comes in a roll.Looks kind of like graphite bonded on a canvas belt. Hadn't look at it for awhile. I think I got it from McMaster Carr or MSC. I'm sure if you looked on line you could find it. Belt sander backing pad.

 

[porthos]

looked at mcmaaster-carr and msc. tried platen pads belt,; sander parts; can't find anything. if you can find anything. please send part#

 

[Richard King]

How much did the charge you to grind the bed? Did they grind all the ways. underside of the rear bottom hold down? Or only the top ways. How long did they have it inside their shop? Was there a ridge on the bottom of the saddle, so you can estimate the wear on the saddle? Can you set the saddle upside down on 1 2 3 blocks on the 4 corners of the cross-slide and use a round dowel pin or drill rod about 2" long to set in the V to see if the saddle bottom is worn more on the front chuck side then the front tailstock side. How much Rulon / Turcite are you going to epoxy on? Remember to add in the .003" to .005" for the epoxy. I think the cross slide is fine, just make sure you indicate the saddle in good to make sure the cross-slide and saddle bottom are square or it faces concave about .0002 in 12".

 

[Milland]

How much did the charge you to grind the bed? Did they grind all the ways. underside of the rear bottom hold down? Or only the top ways. How long did they have it inside their shop? Was there a ridge on the bottom of the saddle, so you can estimate the wear on the saddle? Can you set the saddle upside down on 1 2 3 blocks on the 4 corners of the cross-slide and use a round dowel pin or drill rod about 2" long to set in the V to see if the saddle bottom is worn more on the front chuck side then the front tailstock side. How much Rulon / Turcite are you going to epoxy on? Remember to add in the .003" to .005" for the epoxy. I think the cross slide is fine, just make sure you indicate the saddle in good to make sure the cross-slide and saddle bottom are square or it faces concave about .0002 in 12".

Uh, Rich? The Takisawa thread is thataway >>>>

 

[Bill D]

Think graphite impregnated self adhesive sheet. Then the epoxy will not see much heat or wear.
Bill D
Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Magnate-G6X5Y-Graphite-Coated-Canvas/dp/B004RJBHHU/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_w=VyDvx&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=Q508CEWZ2EZSMS1PXQ72&pd_rd_wg=XseZ1&pd_rd_r=56c1d8d5-6e67-435b-9c86-bc6d1bee1415&pd_rd_i=B004RJBHHU&psc=1

 

[michiganbuck]

I think screw on a sheet metal with shims behind to fill the .015-018, perhaps the face chromed...would be a couple of hour job and last a good long time.

 

[eKretz]

I ground the platen on mine and put a sheet of glass on top. Held it in place with small pan head screws against the edges that don't protrude above the glass.

 

[rke[pler]

my 6x48 belt sander has a .016-.018 dip in the center. i was thinking that i could use turcite to "level" it. my thoughts are to spread the turcite epoxy around; then cover it with wax paper. then lay my granite surface plate over it to flatten the epoxy . never used turcite before; any thoughts or suggestions??

Depending on the thickness of the platen you might just mill some of it away and epoxy in a replacement. A chunk of AR500 would last a good long while. Knife makers who use their 2x72 a lot tend to have a chunk of Pyroceram there since it's hard and abrasion resistant. Here's one shop that custom cuts it for you (no association with me):

Rectangular Pyroceram Ceramic Glass Without Pattern Cut

Our ceramic glass ships in two days. Get you replacement wood stove glass now, high heat pyroceram glass. Perfect for any hearth heating appliance.

www.fastreplacementglass.com

 

[eKretz]

Depending on the thickness of the platen you might just mill some of it away and epoxy in a replacement. A chunk of AR500 would last a good long while. Knife makers who use their 2x72 a lot tend to have a chunk of Pyroceram there since it's hard and abrasion resistant. Here's one shop that custom cuts it for you (no association with me):

Rectangular Pyroceram Ceramic Glass Without Pattern Cut

Our ceramic glass ships in two days. Get you replacement wood stove glass now, high heat pyroceram glass. Perfect for any hearth heating appliance.

www.fastreplacementglass.com

That's what I used. Nice thing about that is it's easy to replace if it wears into an out of flat condition again too.