Very early Monarch 10ee

[stricht8]

Yes, the feed belt is the yellow one.

Both the carriage and cross slide feed levers are engaged at the same time (pointing down). They would be pointing straight out towards the operator if not engaged. You should only have one or the other engaged at a time. I thought it odd that my '42 10EE also allows this to happen. Out of curiosity, does anyone know when they started installing interlocks to prevent this?

View attachment 386305

Thank you for clarifying.

 

[stricht8]

I bit the bullet and bought the 5 gallon pail of DTE light! Ordered heavy medium and vactra no. 2 in manageable 1 gallon sizes.

 

[stricht8]

I’m in the process of buying tooling for this lathe. I’m leaning towards an Aloris axa toolpost, maybe bxa. I also want a live center, dead center and tailstock drill chuck. Any recommendations on these? Does the tailstock take a #2 Morse taper?

 

[Hobby Racer]

I use a BXA and it fits the lathe nicely. Plus it's stouter than the AXA and the 10EE has lots of torque. And yes, the tailstock is an MT2 taper.

Here is what it looks like on the machine.

 

[rimcanyon]

If you already have an AXA or can find one cheap, it will work fine. Otherwise, I would pick BXA. Why? It takes larger tool holders, so there is a better selection of tooling available. A lot of people also like the Swiss Multiquick 40 position toolpost. I believe that is Ross' favorite, perhaps he will provide details. For a live center, I like the Bison 2MT set with several different styles of center. e.g. https://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/bilicemtcela.html Don't be scared off by that price, if you search around you should be able to find it on sale for at least half that price. If you buy a 2MT dead center, make sure it has flats on each side of the small end of the taper; otherwise it might not fit the tailstock. For a tailstock chuck, its hard to beat a Jacobs ball bearing chuck. I have a few Aloris chucks too, but I've more problems with them than the Jacobs chucks.

 

[stricht8]

I use a BXA and it fits the lathe nicely. Plus it's stouter than the AXA and the 10EE has lots of torque. And yes, the tailstock is an MT2 taper.

Here is what it looks like on the machine.

View attachment 389752

Ok good to know about bxa vs axa. I will go with bxa!

 

[stricht8]

If you already have an AXA or can find one cheap, it will work fine. Otherwise, I would pick BXA. Why? It takes larger tool holders, so there is a better selection of tooling available. A lot of people also like the Swiss Multiquick 40 position toolpost. I believe that is Ross' favorite, perhaps he will provide details. For a live center, I like the Bison 2MT set with several different styles of center. e.g. https://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/bilicemtcela.html Don't be scared off by that price, if you search around you should be able to find it on sale for at least half that price. If you buy a 2MT dead center, make sure it has flats on each side of the small end of the taper; otherwise it might not fit the tailstock. For a tailstock chuck, its hard to beat a Jacobs ball bearing chuck. I have a few Aloris chucks too, but I've more problems with them than the Jacobs chucks.

Thank you for all this! With respect to the Jacobs ball bearing chuck, do I buy it with a separate 2MT shaft? I’m not really seeing any with taper shaft attached to chuck with the exception of live chucks- not sure what a live chuck is used for.

 

[rke[pler]

I like the Skoda live centers, but I see that they've gotten fairly pricey. If you want a really good center you might consider buying one with trashed bearing and replacing them, then grinding the center.

For really long work I like the Concentric centers, now sold by Riten. Useful when the work is going to get hot and expand, but tricky to setup.

You'll want more than one size of chuck. I agree with Rimcanyon on the ball bearing Jacobs but would suggest that you stay away from the new production ones coming out of China. I believe you can identify those as they went to an acid etched name instead of the embossed name in the old production.

 

[Peroni]

Nakane for the center and Yukiwa Seiko for a drill chuck. I like their "Super Dream Chuck" line.

 

[rimcanyon]

The MT2 arbors you will need for the Jacobs chuck are available from lots of sources. I bought mine from Grand tool, but MSC and Traverse carry them as well. The chuck will say what kind of arbor it needs, e.g. JT2 or JT3. The arbors are available in all combinations, e.g. a MT2 - JT2 arbor.

 

[stricht8]

The MT2 arbors you will need for the Jacobs chuck are available from lots of sources. I bought mine from Grand tool, but MSC and Traverse carry them as well. The chuck will say what kind of arbor it needs, e.g. JT2 or JT3. The arbors are available in all combinations, e.g. a MT2 - JT2 arbor.

Ok I get it now - the chuck has a mount size and then you get an arbor that accommodates the chuck on one end and the tailstock taper on the other. What is a good overall chuck size to get if I were to get one chuck? Also the arbors seem to to mostly have a tang on the shank end. Is this ok?

 

[stricht8]

I like the Skoda live centers, but I see that they've gotten fairly pricey. If you want a really good center you might consider buying one with trashed bearing and replacing them, then grinding the center.

For really long work I like the Concentric centers, now sold by Riten. Useful when the work is going to get hot and expand, but tricky to setup.

You'll want more than one size of chuck. I agree with Rimcanyon on the ball bearing Jacobs but would suggest that you stay away from the new production ones coming out of China. I believe you can identify those as they went to an acid etched name instead of the embossed name in the old production.

So Skoda makes more than just cars!
I’m looking for one size chuck to start as the tooling is adding up fast! What would a versatile size be? I will try to avoid the China Jacobs chucks for sure.

 

[rke[pler]

I'd suggest something like a 32 or a 34. Here's a pic of the ones I commonly use:



Going from right to left there's a #7, good for 0-1/4", then a #32 (0-3/8"), #34 (0-1/2") and finally a #14N (ball bearing) good to 1/2". The bigger a chuck the more likely it won't grip the smaller drills well, so I scale the chuck to the shank on the tool. The larger the shank the higher the likelihood that the forces on the chuck will be higher, so you want the ball bearing chucks in the larger sizes (you can see an 18N hiding on the other side of these, it's good for 1/8-3/4" but likely hard on the quill).

If you buy one used make sure to look at the jaws in the closed position - if they're damaged they won't close all the way or will close but leave a gap. They should be tight together.

I try to stay with Jacobs taper mounts. I think they're more likely to be on center than threaded, but that's just my feeling. If you don't mount a chuck correctly it can spin on the taper, something that wouldn't happen with the threaded mount.

I try to stay with Jacobs or Albrecht chucks as both have a good supply of rebuild parts.

 

[Shiseiji]

Following up on Rincanyon's suggestion of Grand tool, now Star Tool Supply, I spotted Cushman drill chucks ( https://www.startoolsupply.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3776&products_id=105257 ) . Has anyone experience with them?
They make a ball bearing chuck with a surprising price.

Ron