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VMC vs drill tap centers. New machine help

2outof3

Titanium
Joined
Sep 27, 2014
Location
West Coast USA
Before or after servicing?
The problem with most drill/tap machines is that they really don't like hogging much.
On your average job, the amount of "hogging" is minimal compared to the overall time in the cut. I always say, more than 2 inch depth of cut as a main part of every day machining, than 40 taper should be first thought but under that depth of side load, not much difference. Especially with high feed cutter paths.

Unless of course the majority of your work is high nickel alloy. Than 40 or 50 taper.

This is why Japan builds many times more 30 taper VMC's than 40 taper VMC's.

Things change. Processing speed, cutter design and drive/motor response.
 
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empower

Titanium
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Location
Novi, MI
Before or after servicing?
The problem with most drill/tap machines is that they really don't like hogging much.
depends on how you approach hogging. as long as you're doing adaptive style roughing at low radial and high feeds, should be no problem. for sure i wouldnt try to run 30+% radial step overs in bt30 machines.
 

BROTHERFRANK

Stainless
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Location
SoCal
depends on how you approach hogging. as long as you're doing adaptive style roughing at low radial and high feeds, should be no problem. for sure i wouldnt try to run 30+% radial step overs in bt30 machines.
Oh come on Eugene! 50 to 60% is no problem in 6061. ;-)
 

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DavidScott

Diamond
Joined
Jul 11, 2012
Location
Washington
Before or after servicing?
The problem with most drill/tap machines is that they really don't like hogging much.
Not sure what you mean by servicing. This is kinda foreign to me having Japanese machines, at least beyond lubes and minor maintenance.

Even my Brother hogs fine with the right tools, but with the size of parts the op says they do I don't see a good 40 taper being much if any faster. As for the argument that the op should get a machine that could do what he currently doesn't the principals of lean disagree. You should get the best machine to do the parts you do, not may do. Generally if the parts are palm sized then that will be a good 30 taper machine.
 

DouglasJRizzo

Titanium
Joined
Jun 7, 2011
Location
Ramsey, NJ.
Not sure what you mean by servicing. This is kinda foreign to me having Japanese machines, at least beyond lubes and minor maintenance.

Even my Brother hogs fine with the right tools, but with the size of parts the op says they do I don't see a good 40 taper being much if any faster. As for the argument that the op should get a machine that could do what he currently doesn't the principals of lean disagree. You should get the best machine to do the parts you do, not may do. Generally if the parts are palm sized then that will be a good 30 taper machine.
Even the best Japanese machines will have issues if improperly used. That's what I meant by "servicing."
I own several high quality Japanese machine tools, from premium builders, and have had decades of good service from them, because they are used properly.
Brother is a great machine, however, as someone who's been involved in metal cutting for 50+ years, I can tell you that buying a machine that's "only what you need now" is not good advice, and will only hamstring your shop.
Run your place as you see fit, but I've been on both the builder side, and user side, of this business, for 50+ years, and buying the most machine you can afford is nearly always the best way to go. When work comes, you can handle it.
 

GiroDyno

Cast Iron
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Location
PNW
i've yet to see a part that doesnt fit in our 6x3x1.5 meter work envelope :D
I made a set of parts that required the bay door to be left open on our 100' x 20' x 8' 5axis and we had to flip it around lengthwise to get both end finished.

It was a real bummer when the hydraulics sprang a leak and the brake went out on that machine over a weekend and it put a hole through the facesheet of that mold and we had to drag it our, repair it , then drag it back in...
 

empower

Titanium
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Location
Novi, MI
I made a set of parts that required the bay door to be left open on our 100' x 20' x 8' 5axis and we had to flip it around lengthwise to get both end finished.

It was a real bummer when the hydraulics sprang a leak and the brake went out on that machine over a weekend and it put a hole through the facesheet of that mold and we had to drag it our, repair it , then drag it back in...
ok, you prob have the biggest dick... LOL
 

LOTT

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 28, 2016
I made a set of parts that required the bay door to be left open on our 100' x 20' x 8' 5axis and we had to flip it around lengthwise to get both end finished.

It was a real bummer when the hydraulics sprang a leak and the brake went out on that machine over a weekend and it put a hole through the facesheet of that mold and we had to drag it our, repair it , then drag it back in...
Do you have pictures you can share of this monster?

...buying a machine that's "only what you need now" is not good advice, and will only hamstring your shop.
...... buying the most machine you can afford is nearly always the best way to go. When work comes, you can handle it.
I disagree. I make smallish parts, almost all will fit in your hand and with some you can pick up a fist full of a hundred parts. Buying a bigger, more expensive machine would get me nothing. Find the machine that fits your work, whether that's 500mm or 50'.
 

DouglasJRizzo

Titanium
Joined
Jun 7, 2011
Location
Ramsey, NJ.
Do you have pictures you can share of this monster?


I disagree. I make smallish parts, almost all will fit in your hand and with some you can pick up a fist full of a hundred parts. Buying a bigger, more expensive machine would get me nothing. Find the machine that fits your work, whether that's 500mm or 50'.
You can fit even more of those parts in one set up, on a larger machine.
That's why I did what I did.
 








 
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