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Walker Turner 20" Drill Press Rehabilitation Journey


Sep 16, 2011
Winston Salem, NC
So I recently started this project and thought I'd invite you along. I am positive there will lots of problems/issues that you can help with. This all started when I saw a Ebay posting for the machine - it looked like a basket case - just my style. It was located in WV - about 5 hours from me and the only transport I had was a RAV4. I considered ren ting a truck or getting a tow hitch and trailer but in the end decided the press would fit - especially if disassembled. The machine weighs 600# +. I was able to negotiate a reasonable (to me) price for it and won the machine. Fortunately for me the seller was very accommodating and had the right tools for disassembly - a fork lift. We got it apart and loaded. It was fairly easy to get unloaded and in the shop where it sat for several months.

So now I decided to tackle it. This is not the first 20" WT I have rebuilt but it has been awhile. Here is the pile of parts that was that was the starting point

WT 20 - The Begining.jpg

My first stepc was to try and nail down some date for it - head badge has no data fields for serial number or model - i have since discovered that means likely 1940. However, the cast iron rear belt guard has a speed chart with a serial number and model - not sure when that was typical for WT but the fact that we are in the 1940 range is a good starting point

Head Badge.jpgModel Number.jpgSerial Number.jpg

Next was the table elevation components - that all was pretty easy but I discovered the worm gear for the elevation crank had 5 missing teeth - I was able to source a used gear for that - in fact I was able to get the entire ,mechanism for a reasonable price' Why buy the whole thing you might ask - well nothing is cleaned up yet so who knows what I will discover and the price was right.
Next was the motor mounting plate - I struggled a bit with this. The mounting studs had set screws overlapping the stud and plate
Motor Plate Set Screw 1.jpgMotor Plate Set Screw 2.jpg

the set screws came out easy but the studs wouldn't let go' There were a lot of conversations trying to determine if they were a press fit, threaded or a slip fit. In the end logic told me not threaded and likely not press fit (why have the set screws) so I decided they were a slip fit that were just stuck. I took a deep breath, got out the hammer and a punch and started tapping harder and harder. Finally some movement - then it was easy.

Motor Mount Studs Removed.jpg

I am now working on the motor. It is a 3 phase, 3/4 HP 1140 RPM motor, The tag is in bad shape but the markings are still readable.
As Received.jpg

Motor Data Plate Overall.jpg

Of course the pulley is stuck good - after many attempts to get something behind it to pull it off I decided to get it apart as far as I could with the pulley still installed. I removed the motor bolts and was able to get the opposite side end bell off and then get the stator housing removed. So now I have the pulley side end bell, rotor and pulley

Pulley Disassembly.jpg

And that is where I am at - open to any suggestions for getting the pulley off

The 1952 manual online shows a sheet metal belt guard. So yours is older then 1952. It seemed on mine that all the threaded holes are tapped a little undersized so no lockwashers are needed. Might be a wartime parts saving measure?
Be glad it uses all standard bearings unlike the smaller version with custom extend race bearings for the pulley.
Bill D
Be glad it uses all standard bearings unlike the smaller version with custom extend race bearings for the pulley.
Bill D
Bill thanks for that piece of info I thought it had the WT bearings as well. In fact I was sure the previous 20" I had used special bearings - we'll see when I get to the head.
In the mean time I got the bearing splitter to fit one of the lower steps but now the pullers I have won't fit around the larger upper steps. I tried pushing it out by supporting the end bell on the press bed but didn't make any progress and was nervous about pressing too much for fear of cracking the end bell. So back to staring at it hoping to get a creative idea.

If I'm going to break something i would rather it be the pulley - pretty sure I could replace that versus the end bell.

If you measure up the pulley and look for a replacement either new or used and have a sketch made then if it can't be saved you could perhaps turn a new one from a piece of aluminum bar stock.
Perhaps soaking the pulley with penetrating oil for a few days and a little bit of heat with a propane torch or heat gun might help to get the pulley bore to expand enough to get it free.
Be sure there isn't an extra set screw down in the hole or another setscrew somewhere holding it if you haven't done that already.
I have a close to 50 if not a little more year old Kira drill press made in Japan.
This was one of the early imports before the Japanese goods increased drastically and the imported lookalikes started coming from Taiwan and China .
The motor pulley on this drill press has a steel or cast iron smallest step with a stem hub that goes up into the other steps that are cast aluminum .
The idea being the the small step would wear longer than if it was made of aluminum or diecast .
That might also be a fix if something happens getting your original off the shaft.
Mine also has a sleeve to accommodate a 1/2" motor shaft where as the original bore was probably 16 MM or just over 5/8"
At that time the drills didn't come complete with the motor you had to add your own.


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Age means nothing. If it turns smoothly and no noticeable radial play, call it good and don't frig around with the pot metal pulley. I have worked with these cheap sheaves more than I want to and their marginal strength DOESN'T improve with age. Unlike cast pulleys, once you have broken a flange. you can't just bronze it back up.
Age means nothing. If it turns smoothly and no noticeable radial play, call it good and don't frig around with the pot metal pulley. I have worked with these cheap sheaves more than I want to and their marginal strength DOESN'T improve with age. Unlike cast pulleys, once you have broken a flange. you can't just bronze it back up.
Thanks for your input
It looks like you are putting together a nice shop. A nice shop deserves a better ride than a Rav4. You need to upgrade.😀
I bought mine with no motor or motor pulley. I never found a pulley to match. I used a three or four step pulley that is close. Set it to middle speed and use the vfd to change rpm. Once I figured out what ratio I could have just bought a single pulley of the proper diameter.
Bill D
I stopped at auto zone today and they had a 7 ton 3 jaw puller (could be converted to a 2 jaw) in their loan program. It had longer arms than my puny one so I thought I would give it a try. Arms still not long enough to reach the bearing splitter on the only step it actually fit. So I took another deep breath and set up with two arms on the second largest pulley step. I pictured Dan in the back of my mind saying its not pressed on - just gunked up - and gave it a slight turn - nothing. Tried again and heard a familiar pop' I gingerly looked to make sure I had not snapped the pulley lip - all was good. Went a little farther and it got easier and I could see the pulley moving up the shaft. YAHOO.

Motor Pulley Puller.jpg

Motor Pulley Off.jpg

Cost of tool is $96.00 but I get a full refund when I return it undamaged. I am going to wait to see how many times I borrow it before I purchase. That is a great program Auto Zone has.

Moving on to finish the motor disassembly and get the bearings out.

OK - Motor bearings. These appear to be sealed ball bearings marked SKF 6204 but there were filled with grease; There is an access hole in the end bell that has a small screw

Motor Bearing Grease Hole.jpg

and there also appears to be a space between the outside cover and the bearing where greased from that hole might go

Motor Bearing Outside Cover.jpg

On the inside of the end bell there was again tons of grease

Motor Bearing Inside Before Clean Up.jpg

After getting the grease cleaned up a bit I could easily see the bearing markings and the fact that there was an inner race

Motor Bearing Inside After Clean Up With ID.jpg

Finally I noticed a grove in the end bell with a retaining wire although the bearing does not appear to be against it

Motor Bearing Retainingn Wire.jpg

So I am not sure of what I have - it would seem there would be no reason to grease a 6204 bearing so maybe the original was an open bearing that was replaced. Also not sure what the wire is for - it does not appear to be retaining anything - again maybe part of the OEM set up. Not sure if the outer cover as shown in the second picture comes out or not. Right now I'm not sure how the bearing is located or which direction to get it out from. The wire in the groove is not small and its another thing I'm not sure how to remove.

So let's start with - has anybody seen this set up before and disassembled it.

I took a closer look and I think they are an open bearing on one side and shield on the other. I guess the 6204 is a dimensional specification and does not define open, shields, seals. I put a dental pick in the opening and I can feel it drop between the bearing balls.

So now the question of how to get them out. On the outside there is a fairly thin sheet metal shield (idependant of the bearing) and on the inside there is the retaining wire. I'm not sure if I should push the bearing out from the inside of the end bell or try to remove the outside metal shield?

Remove the wire clip and push bearing out that side. 6204 is a common bearing size, 6204zz will have rubber shields on both sides, you can remove one side if that is what you want.
Thanks - I appreciate your comments. Can you suggest some hints for the inexperienced :). Not sure how to get that wire out - it is a pretty strong wire and there isn't anywhere to grab it. Is it just a case of getting something underneath it and prying?

Second - assuming I can get the wire out - if I try to push the bearing out from the front I think I am going top destroy the thin metal shield (idependant of the bearing)?
Yes, use a stiff pick, get under one end and pry it out, work around till its out. Hard to tell in pics how that shield is held in, is it flat, or a cup, can you tell? Is the bore in the shield same diameter as bearing? Do you have an internal bearing puller? Not sure if the Zone rents those, Harbor Freight sells a decent set, that is what I would use. This one
FYI: The custom bearings had a normal bearing number on the outer race. The only diference was the inner race extended maybe 1/2" beyond flush on one side. I believe there are some recent NTN ones that fit.
I do not remember the details my father did this on his lathe for me. Used a larger bore bearing and made a stepped sleeve that mimicked the extended race. Might have had to bore the bearing holder for a larger OD bearing fit?
Bill D
Bill D - are you talking about motor bearings or spindle bearings? I know the spindle bearings on the previous 1100 machine I had were proprietary - not sure if motor bearings were the same. I suspect the motors were re-branded for WT.
The bearing is out on one end. This thread https://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&...=Walker+Turner+motor+Bearing+Removal#p1577130 on OWWM was my inspiration although I varied it a bit. The overall anatomy of the end bell is that the bearing is a 6204 with shield on one side and open on the other - the open side faces out. From the inside out - there is a wire retainer on the inside of the bearing that fits in a groove in the end bell followed by the bearing, followed by a thin washer, followed by another wire in a groove and finally a plug on the end. The rotor shaft does not protrude through the end bell. The linked thread kind of shows this with some pictures.

Getting the wire out is an adventure. In the linked thread Tim suggests drilling a small divot to put a pick. Well I have no idea how to get inside that end bell with a drill so I went in a different direction. Using a Dremel with a cutting wheel I cut a slot next to and parallel with the wire deep enough to get a pick under the wire. Then it was simply fiddling with different picks and other prying tools until the wire came out. Repeated that for the outside wire and then pressed the bearing out towards the inside of the end bell.

I think, unless someone suggests differently that I'm going to use a shieled or sealed 6204 bearing versus the open bearing.

Rick - who is moving on to then fan end bell.