So I was lucky enough to drag this guy out into the light of day for probably the first time in decades. Brought it home for just $200 and am starting to go through it and clean it up. This is my first camel back drill, so I'm a bit weary about removing certain pieces with how little information I've found on this particular drill. I've found the old forum post on here with the one in the museum, and the couple of brochures on vintage machinery. Thinking mine might be a slightly newer version as it has an MT5 spindle, not an MT4 like in the brochures.
I've pulled a small access panel off the top and was happy to see that the two main gears and both back gears were in excellent shape with no chipped teeth. I was really set on buying this after I saw it in person for the first time and saw all of the enclosed castings at the top to cover the drivetrain and gears, as most other camelbacks I've seen were just open at the top. I did not realize until pulling the access panel off that the gear train actually rides in an oil bath in the castings up top. Super cool.
It also has a clutch assembly in the oil bath, the big handle on the left engages and disengages the spindle. It also appears to be fully functional, not exactly sure how it works though. Seems like there's probably some sort of friction material somewhere, but there's a slight click or clunk when you really engage it all the way, hoping it has some type of mechanical lock for fully engaged some the spindle can't slip the frictions under heavy load.
The spindle taper is in good shape, could use a little clean up, but no big grooves.
There is a large top cover that encloses the gears and clutch. In front and back of it are two plain bearings I believe, they have oil cups installed right on top of them. I'd like to pull those covers off for clean up and to inspect the bevel gear.
Is there anything special I need to do or measure when pulling the top bearing cap off? I'd imagine there might be some shims to set clearances, so I'll keep track of those if they are there. Should I measure the bolt torque before removing the bearing caps? I've only dealt with plain bearings on my jeep engines and such, I wouldn't imagine a drill press bearing would be as tight of tolerance as an engine, but I've got no experience here.
Going to clean up the table, pull the two halves of the table mount off of the column today to clean those up and work on the dovetail ways some more today.
So far I haven't found a single thing broken on it yet, hoping my luck continues.
Would there be much possible harm to trying to power this machine up after a good cleaning and lubricating, or do I need to pull everything mostly apart and reassemble? If the bearings are as in good of shape as the rest of the drill I don't think I'll need to replace them, but I don't want to damage anything by powering it up prematurely.
Also, any recommendations on a suitable oil to fill the oil bath with after cleaning the old stuff out? I'd assume I would use the same oil in the bath as I would the oiler cups for the bearings. Not sure what I should use for the other exposed gears in the power down feed assembly
Thanks for all your help, looking forward to sharing a bit more info on this machine.
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I've pulled a small access panel off the top and was happy to see that the two main gears and both back gears were in excellent shape with no chipped teeth. I was really set on buying this after I saw it in person for the first time and saw all of the enclosed castings at the top to cover the drivetrain and gears, as most other camelbacks I've seen were just open at the top. I did not realize until pulling the access panel off that the gear train actually rides in an oil bath in the castings up top. Super cool.
It also has a clutch assembly in the oil bath, the big handle on the left engages and disengages the spindle. It also appears to be fully functional, not exactly sure how it works though. Seems like there's probably some sort of friction material somewhere, but there's a slight click or clunk when you really engage it all the way, hoping it has some type of mechanical lock for fully engaged some the spindle can't slip the frictions under heavy load.
The spindle taper is in good shape, could use a little clean up, but no big grooves.
There is a large top cover that encloses the gears and clutch. In front and back of it are two plain bearings I believe, they have oil cups installed right on top of them. I'd like to pull those covers off for clean up and to inspect the bevel gear.
Is there anything special I need to do or measure when pulling the top bearing cap off? I'd imagine there might be some shims to set clearances, so I'll keep track of those if they are there. Should I measure the bolt torque before removing the bearing caps? I've only dealt with plain bearings on my jeep engines and such, I wouldn't imagine a drill press bearing would be as tight of tolerance as an engine, but I've got no experience here.
Going to clean up the table, pull the two halves of the table mount off of the column today to clean those up and work on the dovetail ways some more today.
So far I haven't found a single thing broken on it yet, hoping my luck continues.
Would there be much possible harm to trying to power this machine up after a good cleaning and lubricating, or do I need to pull everything mostly apart and reassemble? If the bearings are as in good of shape as the rest of the drill I don't think I'll need to replace them, but I don't want to damage anything by powering it up prematurely.
Also, any recommendations on a suitable oil to fill the oil bath with after cleaning the old stuff out? I'd assume I would use the same oil in the bath as I would the oiler cups for the bearings. Not sure what I should use for the other exposed gears in the power down feed assembly
Thanks for all your help, looking forward to sharing a bit more info on this machine.









Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk