Which transformer to get to step up 240v to 480v?

[RMeyers]

If you change the voltage and find sourcing heater elements for the old Westinghouse difficult just buy another starter.

My Series 62 was supplied with the a similar but single direction starter, I replaced it with a NOS but more contemporary CH reversing starter

No pics of the old, here is the new one fitted an easy swap.

If possible go with the low voltage change, much more practical in your situation.

Steve

That C-H Citation starter is obsolete & it was discontinued after Eaton bought the electrical division of Westinghouse around 1995, which is too bad because they are a favorite of mine.

Finding replacement coils & heaters for those Westinghouse starters will not be easy, might be a lot easier to find a more supported starter line & replace them.

 

[Steve in SoCal]

That C-H Citation starter is obsolete & it was discontinued after Eaton bought the electrical division of Westinghouse around 1995, which is too bad because they are a favorite of mine.

Finding replacement coils & heaters for those Westinghouse starters will not be easy, might be a lot easier to find a more supported starter line & replace them.

I agree with the C-H Citation starter being my favorite too. I have had no problems with parts from the many I have. The old Westinghouse / C-H stuff is still pretty easy to find parts for as well. I just got a NOS 110 coil for a 1950's C-H old style WH type on ebay for under 20 buck delivered.

Steve

 

[DaveKamp]

Copper is expensive nowdays, but I'll toss in my 0.02:

It is HIGHLY UNLIKELY that your lathe is not already native and adaptable to 240v.

The two parts that typically AREN'T 240v capable:

The OEM motor starter 'heater' coil. It is in the motor overload/starter that was fitted at factory, it fits in the palm or your hand. As the guys noted, they're not available 'new', but there's some still around, and prized by those of us in the same situation as you... they CAN be found.

The main lockout/fuse switch. It was USUALLY added at the most recent commisioning location, by those who set up the machine. Same people also set the machine's wiring for the site's mains supply.

This doesn't mean 'when new'... it means 'most recent commissioning'.

My '42 EE was first commissioned as 240v. at some point it was moved to a different facility and recommissioned as 480.... and then it was moved again, and again, and again. The operating voltages MAY have changed several times along the line, I don't know, but when I got it, it was configured for 480, had a heater for 480, and a switchbox for 600v, with all three fuses missing... it was probably run on 480.

Here's what you SHOULD be able to do... as EG and Thermite Bill say:

Get whatever switch/fuse box you can, in the realm of what your EXPECTED load will be. As they said, you won't be turning rolls, you don't need to size for power you'll never need.

Seek out a good used heater coil, and slap it in.

Find the voltage configuration point. Usually, you'll have some motor leads, and a control transformer that need to be flipped from 460 to 230. After that, it's a good idea to take an ohmmeter from your input leads to ground (just to look for a short), then plug it in, and flip the switch with a broomstick. Either your breaker will trip, or it'll start.

Then, take a voltmeter from chassis to ground, again, just to look for something that might blip your ticker.

It'll be okay.

 

[TDegenhart]

That old NEMA stuff has a lot more guts than needed for most jobs. They were designed to be used in the worst possible configuration without problems. I personally have up rated NEMA starters to one size larger by simply changing the terminal lugs to accommodate the the bigger wire, then remarked them as DP (definite purpose). This is common across the industry. I did this when I worked at GE and Furnas Electric. My guess is that all the coils are 110/120 volt. This was a common practice and often required if the control wiring left the cabinet to go to a remote push button control. Check all the motor circuit power wire to be adequate and if ok then put heaters in for the expected max motor current not max rated current and you are good to go.

Tom

 

[CarbideBob]

Wonder the easy way here.
The concept of a heater and why is confusing to the OP.

 

[TDegenhart]

Wonder the easy way here.
The concept of a heater and why is confusing to the OP.

Not quite sure what mean, but let me explain. The heater is replaceable component of the OL relay that controls when the OL will trip. These are resistors that simulate the heating of the motor. They heat either a bimetal strip or an assembly of a pin and sleeve held together with solder. When the solder reaches it's melting point, the sleeve will turn allowing the operating mechanism to trip the relay. In this case, it is not the motor that is to be protected, but the control circuitry. Same idea as in a circuit breaker. The breaker is chosen to protect the wiring not the load.

Tom