Will Loctite retain a wheel stud with stripped splines?

[eKretz]

ID = Inside Diameter. OD = Outside Diameter.

 

[MilGunsmith]

The green 620 retaining compound will hold it. Just clean up everything with Acetone or brake cleaner before using it. Let cure for a couple of hours before torqueing.

 

[in the shed again]

Thank you!

 

[triumph406]

Apologies if this isn't the right Forum, but I reckon someone in your group knows more about this than I do!
I am currently working on a Triumph Spitfire. One of the wheel studs has stripped most of its own splines and rounded out its hole on the flange plate.
Pulling the plate isn't likely (I don't really want to buy an expensive Puller for one job, and they are a total b*stard to get off!).
Tack welding the stud might be an option, but I'm not a welder!
But then I came across a post on your forum called Loctite info thread - StuMc was involved in the discussion.
Does anyone know if this would work? The new stud is going to be a reasonably close fit in the hole. Would something like Loctite 603 (or similar) bond with sufficient strength to withstand my torque wrench when I refit the hub and spline adaptor (the Spit has 'knock off' wire wheels so isn't secured directly by the studs).
Thanks in advance for any advice!

660 works well for what you want. I would loctite the stud in place, I've used 660 a few times and it's quite impressive stuff. Especially if you don't intend on removing the stud.

Have you checked to see if there arent any studs availible that have over size (diameter) splines? You can't be the first Spitfire owner who's had this problem.

 

[in the shed again]

660 works well for what you want. I would loctite the stud in place, I've used 660 a few times and it's quite impressive stuff. Especially if you don't intend on removing the stud.

Have you checked to see if there arent any studs availible that have over size (diameter) splines? You can't be the first Spitfire owner who's had this problem.

Thanks very much for the advice and I'll put your question out on the restoration site I use.


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[plastikdreams]

Loctite 680 is some strong stuff, fully cured it has a rating of 4000 pounds shear strength and will fill up to .015 gap.

 

[in the shed again]

Thanks very much for the advice and I'll put your question out on the restoration site I use.


0

Loctite 680 is some strong stuff, fully cured it has a rating of 4000 pounds shear strength and will fill up to .015 gap.

Thanks very much for the advice.

 

[Bill D]

They make bolts for construction with a hex tip at the end of the threads. Special impact wrench holds the bolt and spins the nut down all from one side. Some are designed where the hex portion shears off at the correct torque

 

[72bwhite]

Well Moss list the hub as NA so
have to not damage it, and it rotates so want all the studs and nuts need to be the same
definitely don’t weld on it.
+1 for locatite 680.
worst case you will have to cut the nut off down the road

English cars have their own set of oddities and contrary to what people will tell you
they don’t have to leak oil
not a spitfire expert MGB is my experience

 

[john.k]

I had a Triumph Spitfire Mk III.....this was the worst POS to ever sit on four wheels .........something would break every time I drove it .......Incidentally,these cars are no relative of the Triumph cars with the 2l motors.............they were a cheap POS that was also called the Austin Healy(Bugeye) Sprite ,and the MG something or other..............the darkest days of the destruction of the British motor industry.

 

[in the shed again]

Think I've answered my own question:
LOCTITE 660 is a high strength retaining compound with good gap filling properties, ideal for repairing worn-out seats, keys, splines, bearings or tapers without remachining.
Thanks for your help folks.

 

[gustafson]

I addition to the above advise, if the hole is properly buggered, I would assemble it wet so that the stud is at least mostly where it belongs and straight and then wait until the loctite is cured for final torque. If you dress up the threads and nut so they go together smoothly it will help matters.

 

[in the shed again]

I had a Triumph Spitfire Mk III.....this was the worst POS to ever sit on four wheels .........something would break every time I drove it .......Incidentally,these cars are no relative of the Triumph cars with the 2l motors.............they were a cheap POS that was also called the Austin Healy(Bugeye) Sprite ,and the MG something or other..............the darkest days of the destruction of the British motor industry.

And the relevance of this to my question is.....?

 

[tylersteez]

If i was dead set on not changing the hub then I would just do a flat, easily cuttable weld on one side of the stud so that if I ever had to remove it for some reason I could just cut the weld and take it out. regardless just change the hub.

 

[michiganbuck]

Apologies I'm not familiar with OD and ID....Outer/Inner Dimension maybe? Is this to give the Loctite a surface to bond against? Thanks!

OD stands for Old Dogger

 

[72bwhite]

I had a Triumph Spitfire Mk III.....this was the worst POS to ever sit on four wheels .........something would break every time I drove it .......Incidentally,these cars are no relative of the Triumph cars with the 2l motors.............they were a cheap POS that was also called the Austin Healy(Bugeye) Sprite ,and the MG something or other..............the darkest days of the destruction of the British motor industry.

John you know not what you are talking about
Triumph has no relation design wise to the sprite and midget

The Sprite and Midget are the same mostly, AH just made the body running gear
came from MG
incompetent mechanics are the number one reliability problem

 

[CarbideBob]

Yes to the original question

 

[72bwhite]

Now as to the ops question I would suggest you ask the question on
Triumph Experience forum.
people there will know the tricks you need to know to fix things the right way
and will know the sources for parts.
tribal knowledge is important on these cars it’s not a Ford or Chevy

 

[scsmith42]

Lots of great advice above in the thread. One thing that I have not seen mentioned is the importance of pre-loading the stud while the loctite is curing.

So, to summarize,

1 - use a center punch around the perimeter of the hold to tighten up the hole slightly.
2 - thoroughly clean the new stud and hole, getting rid of all rust, scale, oil, etc by using brake cleaner, starting fluid, carb cleaner, or loctite primer.
3 - Use Loctite 680, 660 or 620 on the stud
4 - slip some washers over the stud and tighten up the nut - so that you are preloading the stud into the flange. This will help to ensure that the stud is fully seated and aligned. It would be best to torque the stud to the recommended wheel torque so everything cures in what would be the installed configuration.
5 - after allowing the loctite to cure for 24 hours, remove the nut and washers and complete your installation.