Wiring Help Needed Baldor .5 hp to Cutler Hammer Drum Switch

[Ebby1600]

Im renovating a 9' undercabinet SB lathe. I sent the original motor out to Midway Industrial and they couldn't repair the motor. I purchased a Baldor .5hp motor as a replacement and intend on using the drum switch that came with the lathe. If it comes to residential wiring I'm ok with it and have the utmost respect for electricity and use safe practices when installing residential electrical components. I installed the complete electrical system in my homebuilt aircraft, radios included. All went well. When it comes to wiring up a motor to a drum switch it's no joy for me. I just don't 'get it'. I've paid my dues reading posts on how to do it, I've watched several YouTube videos but none match exactly what I need. So I'm crying uncle and asking for help. I've attached a diagram of the Cutler Hammer switch I have and copied Page 10 from the Baldor manual. Would a fellow member who knows this stuff like breathing help me out? Could you explain or list which wire needs to go to which terminal to allow this motor to run forward and reverse? I'd really appreciate it. Yes, I read a post on accepting advice over a forum but I'm confident, with all the running lathes in this group. Help is available.

Best Regards

 

[kitno455]

Do you want 110 or 220 volts?

allan

 

[Ed Call]

I found a drawing that my help you, it has 120 volt and 240 volt single phase diagrams. just be sure to double check contacts in switch as well as individual motor leads. you usually reverse t5 & t8 leads just so the drum contacts are configured the right way just look at it, there are many good diagrams on the net just my 2 cents worth hope it helps

 

[kitno455]

Here's a diagram that will work with your switch and motor for 110v:



1. The light blue wires should already exist (though probably black) on the back of your switch. If not, you will need to add them.
2. The white and yellow wires are joined at the motor, and extended to the switch, where they are connected to the same terminal as the neutral wire.
3. The blue and orange wires are joined at the motor, and extended to the switch, where they connect to a terminal switched to the hot wire.
4. The start windings (black and red) are extended to the switch.
5. If the motor rotates opposite of what you want, flip the red wires at the switch.
6. Be sure to ground the switch body and the motor.

allan

 

[Ed Call]

I found another wiring diagram, maybe it will be more clear to you. I googled cutler hammer your drum switch number and single phase and found several what I consider very clear to me wiring diagrams, hope this helps.

 

[Ebby1600]

Do you want 110 or 220 volts?

allan

Hi Allan,

110v please.

John

 

[kitno455]

I found another wiring diagram, maybe it will be more clear to you. I googled cutler hammer your drum switch number and single phase and found several what I consider very clear to me wiring diagrams, hope this helps.

Yeah, too bad that diagram puts the run windings in series instead of parallel, and then says it is for 110v.

allan

 

[Ebby1600]

Allan,

This looks like what I need. The colors really help. I'm going to take your diagram and incorporate it into my diagram with color and repost it here for your assessment. Convention has the green wire a ground. Is that true in this situation?

John

Here's a diagram that will work with your switch and motor for 110v:

View attachment 147117

1. The light blue wires should already exist (though probably black) on the back of your switch. If not, you will need to add them.
2. The white and yellow wires are joined at the motor, and extended to the switch, where they are connected to the same terminal as the neutral wire.
3. The blue and orange wires are joined at the motor, and extended to the switch, where they connect to a terminal switched to the hot wire.
4. The start windings (black and red) are extended to the switch.
5. If the motor rotates opposite of what you want, flip the red wires at the switch.
6. Be sure to ground the switch body and the motor.

allan

 

[kitno455]

Allan,

This looks like what I need. The colors really help. I'm going to take your diagram and incorporate it into my diagram with color and repost it here for your assessment. Convention has the green wire a ground. Is that true in this situation?

John

Yes- the green wire is ground, and also labeled with a 'G'.

allan

 

[paulsomlo]

This has become a fairly common topic here - we really could use a "sticky" on this.

Paul

 

[Ebby1600]

Ok I think I understand now after playing around with some diagrams, the actual drum switch and my multimeter. Ive attached two graphics that helped me understand what each motor wire does and how the drum switch reverses the flow of current. I'm not sure of my terminology but graphically it looks logical to me what the drum switch is doing when it is moved from forward to reverse. If there is an error in my diagrams let me know because this level of electronics is pushing my understanding and I don't want to burn up a brand new motor. Thank you to all the respondents to my post. I see there was a request for a sticky. Sounds good to me.

 

[kitno455]

It would be very difficult to produce a definitive sticky for motor wiring, as each case is different. I've got 14 different versions I've drawn, just to post here on PM in the past couple years.

allan

 

[kitno455]

Ok I think I understand now after playing around with some diagrams, the actual drum switch and my multimeter. Ive attached two graphics that helped me understand what each motor wire does and how the drum switch reverses the flow of current. I'm not sure of my terminology but graphically it looks logical to me what the drum switch is doing when it is moved from forward to reverse. If there is an error in my diagrams let me know because this level of electronics is pushing my understanding and I don't want to burn up a brand new motor. Thank you to all the respondents to my post. I see there was a request for a sticky. Sounds good to me. View attachment 147250View attachment 147251

In your first drawing, 'A phase' is really called the run windings, 'B phase' is really called the start windings, and L2 should be called L1, which is the hot wire in the line cord (black).

Your first drawing is also confusing because of these 'continuity' circles. They are misleading, because _every_ terminal in the switch has continuity with either L1 or L2 whenever the switch is on. I suppose what you are trying to say is 'continuity with L1' (which is mislabeled as above)

allan

 

[Ebby1600]

Point taken. I do realize when all connections are made a current path is created. I appreciate the critique and will modify my drawing.

Continuity, in this case, simply means when the isolated switch is positioned in forward or reverse I've shown which terminals are "live". Doing this helped me follow the flow and understand how the current path is redirected to reverse the motor's direction of rotation.

Thanks for the help.

 

[NewtonSquare]

This is the dwg I use to connect those original Furnas drum switches to a new motor. You can visually verify the switch action in Fig. #1. Note that the labels in the lower dwg (run and start) need to be reversed.

 

[Ebby1600]

A

I found another wiring diagram, maybe it will be more clear to you. I googled cutler hammer your drum switch number and single phase and found several what I consider very clear to me wiring diagrams, hope this helps.

Thank you. I made a copy of the diagram and it will be helpful when I get to that part of my lathe renovation in the spring.