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Work holding a Featherweight 18" straight edge for machining

I honestly couldn't say, but he doesn't strike me as someone that likes to sit in front of a computer. He and I text occasionally, but I get the impression he'd rather talk on the phone. He thinks we have to be nuts to hand scrape for "fun." 😂 He does enjoy telling people about it and sharing what he knows. I did record some video and plan to edit it into a short YT presentation at some point.

IIRC, he pronounced it like "kur-nee" - and he knew both Kearney and Trecker personally, so I would take it for what it is. Maybe he also mispronounced it and Kearney was too nice a guy to correct him? 🤷🏼‍♂️😂
He’s right about the scraping for “ fun “.

Regards Tyrone
 
I suspect most people wouldn’t call what they do/did for a living fun. Being off the clock when I scrape and having the freedom to do whatever project floats my boat that day = fun. Being able to pick the brains of experts who did this for a living sure helps!
 
Mule,

I know it really does not mattter. But, did you get any sense as to how flat you got the faces using the milling methods you showed us? And were the "dimples" really just very superficial or were they more than just blemishes on the milled surface? Just curious.

Denis
On the sole, probably less than a thou out of flat, for sure. And the dimples were very superficial. I don't even notice them, but I will have to look harder to see if they are even visible anymore.
 
On the sole, probably less than a thou out of flat, for sure. And the dimples were very superficial. I don't even notice them, but I will have to look harder to see if they are even visible anymore.
I went and took a look. There might be one dimple visible, and it looks like a tiny pin hole. And I had to LOOK for it.

I built this jog to help support it while scraping the prism face.

IMG_0499.jpeg

I'll add, that overall, I have really enjoyed this so far. I can't wait to finish it. I will be looking to add one of your shorter SEs to my collection. And maybe a second 18" just for fun. 😂
 
On the sole, probably less than a thou out of flat, for sure. And the dimples were very superficial. I don't even notice them, but I will have to look harder to see if they are even visible anymore.
That is excellent flatness. Not bad for a guy who said he was very apprehensive about tackling this task!

Also , the wood fixture you made looks well-suited to the task. It will be waiting for your second 18! I have been surprised (and pleased) by the number of members here who have purchased multiple castings.

Denis
 
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Thank you!

Editing is always the hardest part. I never plan out what I am going to record, so I usually just record it all and then figure out how to get it down to a reasonable length. I was hoping this was going to be a 1 part video, but the more I thought about it, the more I wanted to show what didn't work. The "full length" version is almost 3 hours long. 😳. And that was after some heavy editing. I have over 5 hours of video, and that's really only about half of the time I spent on this.
 
I finished editing the 2nd half of machining the straight edge. I made some mistakes, recovered from them, and i think it turned out great.

 
I finished editing the 2nd half of machining the straight edge. I made some mistakes, recovered from them, and i think it turned out great.

Mule,

This is a well-done pair of videos. They provide a lot of information to someone interested machining another 18 or similar-shaped casting as they can get a sense of the process and challenges before they start. That should be very helpful.

Denis
 
Been a while since I posted an update. I worked on the sole for quite a number of more hours. I was able to make some extra blades for the hand scraper out of some thin A2 tool steel with tighter radii. This let me get into the smaller blue dots a little easier with less overlap. I am calling the sole done. For now. Once my OCD kicks in again, I might change my mind.

IMG_0613.jpeg

I've also started working on the prism face. Here's where I am after 17 passes. I'll move to a tighter radius blade now and start attacking the high spots. Still a long way to go.

IMG_0822.jpeg
 
I think I am going to call this done - for now. I could probably chase fly poop for weeks. Finished the prism face. I might be counting wrong, but I am getting 35-45 ppi. I think this took 28 passes.

IMG_0823.jpeg


I also worked on and finished the back strap. Mostly unnecessary, but I wanted to do it. This took MANY more passes than any other face, mostly because I was able to step scrape it to within .0002" of being parallel to the sole.

Start of the first pass (yes, I stuck with the hand scraper on all faces).

IMG_0842.jpeg

After I decided enough was enough.

IMG_0868.jpeg

I really enjoyed this process. Looking forward to doing more scraping.

Now I need to find someone that can make me a nice storage box for it. :)
 
I think I am going to call this done - for now. I could probably chase fly poop for weeks. Finished the prism face. I might be counting wrong, but I am getting 35-45 ppi. I think this took 28 passes.

View attachment 406365


I also worked on and finished the back strap. Mostly unnecessary, but I wanted to do it. This took MANY more passes than any other face, mostly because I was able to step scrape it to within .0002" of being parallel to the sole.

Start of the first pass (yes, I stuck with the hand scraper on all faces).

View attachment 406366

After I decided enough was enough.

View attachment 406367

I really enjoyed this process. Looking forward to doing more scraping.

Now I need to find someone that can make me a nice storage box for it. :)
Maybe make the box out of Ironwood?? :D

Actually, Baltic Birch plywood works very well for this sort of thing. Be careful with any adhesive you might use should you line the box---some like the common yellow glues---can promote rusting. Epoxies are essentially chemically inert. Plastic bearing points in the box are safe but leather tabs can also promote rust. I like to give a light wipe-down with CRC 3-36 before putting away tools. (there are any number of other products that folks favor---including paste wax in my shop) 3-36 has been perfect in my shop though I know conditions in some shops (and some fiolks' sweat) are very problematic. Some unsealed solid woods also are acidic (like oak) and should not be in direct contact with iron/steel.

Nicely done---both the work of shaping and finishing the metal as well as documenting it.

Denis
 








 
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