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WTB Aloris CA 2" and 2-1/2" boring bar holders

Garwood

Diamond
Joined
Oct 10, 2009
Location
Oregon
Did they ever make a 2½" in CA? I've never seen one. Not sure I've even seen a 2". The biggest I've got in CA is 1½".

Yes. 2" and 2.5" were made by Aloris. Probably bigger than makes sense to run on a CA post. For the times I want to run larger bars I'd like the option to do it easily.
 

hvnlymachining

Cast Iron
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Location
St.Onge
I've got a 2-1/2" for my Dorian DA, it's a full load for that, can't imagine what it'd look like on a CA! Also might run into an issue trying to get your boring bar on center.
 

4GSR

Diamond
Joined
Jan 25, 2005
Location
Victoria, Texas, USA
I know Dorian makes 2" for the CA size tool post. I've seen them in use! Not sure about 2-1/2" size. Heck, make your own. I made a 1-3/4" one for a CA tool post I used to have years ago.
 

Garwood

Diamond
Joined
Oct 10, 2009
Location
Oregon
I know Dorian makes 2" for the CA size tool post. I've seen them in use! Not sure about 2-1/2" size. Heck, make your own. I made a 1-3/4" one for a CA tool post I used to have years ago.

Here is a 2.5 is CA flavor.

 

hvnlymachining

Cast Iron
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Location
St.Onge
With a 3-5/8" tool post height and a block standing 3-5/16" your ability to adjust your bar height is sure limited. Higher isn't so bad but getting it lower is going to be a challenge! But now I want one too! ( Got two shop lathes with CAs, 2 with DAs and searching for a cheap EA. )
 

eKretz

Diamond; Mod Squad
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Location
Northwest Indiana, USA
I worked at a place that had a really nice setup for boring with a CA. They had 1½" bars but with a short (around 1" wide) larger diameter flange on the business end, and they used the Kennametal bolt-on heads offset to the front of the bar, so they could be easily swapped out for different jobs. You set up the bar by stacking tubular spacers between that flange and the CA toolholder to get the length needed, then also over whatever 1½" part of the bar that protruded past the other end of the CA. The spacers were selected such that they ovehung the end of the bar on the tailstock end, then a flat plate with a hole through was placed on the end of the stack and a bolt was used to pull that stack tight against the CA with a threaded hole in the end of the 1½" bar. They worked very well.
 
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Garwood

Diamond
Joined
Oct 10, 2009
Location
Oregon
I worked at a place that had a really nice setup for boring with a CA. They had 1½" bars but with a short (around 1" wide) larger diameter flange on the business end, and they used the Kennanetal bolt-on heads offset to the front of the bar, so they could be easily swapped out for different jobs. You set up the bar by stacking tubular spacers between that flange and the CA toolholder to get the length needed, then also over whatever 1½" part of the bar that protruded past the other end of the CA. The spacers were selected such that they ovehung the end of the bar on the tailstock end, then a flat plate with a hole through was placed on the end of the stack and a bolt was used to pull that stack tight against the CA with a threaded hole in the end of the 1½" bar. They worked very well.

That's a great idea! I have numerous 1-1/2" Kenna modular boring heads.
 

eKretz

Diamond; Mod Squad
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Location
Northwest Indiana, USA
Pulling your boring bar in compression like that will almost eliminate any chatter most steel bars produce when hanging out a long distance.

It worked awesome, I can tell you that. Some of the most solid smaller bars I ever used. The core of the bar in tension and the tubular sleeves in compression. They had a nice assortment of sleeves in thicknesses from ½" to 3".
 








 
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