The infamous South Bend 1307

Default The infamous South Bend1307
I have read all of the old threads, and hate to open a new one, but as we all know, new info pops up all the time. I ended up with the 1307 that was listed on the North Carolina Craigslist. Great News!!!! All parts are there, well everything but the access panel on the DC motor end. "Easy fab" I need to find someone that may have a service manual, or at least some torque specs for gearbox components. I bought an owners manual, but the only info that it gives me of any value is the parts list and schematics.

email Ted, probably even has some parts too...

[email protected]

Pictures, please. I almost bought one of those out of the Phila. area. I found a nice Monarch 10EE to cure that lust. Still, it would be a fun toy to play with.

I will get some pics tomorrow. It is in our shop at work. The guy I bought it from decided to dismantle it to paint it... Kind of like removing your engine to paint your car... So now I'm cleaning all of the parts that he let set in totes and develop surface rust. So basically, I guess I am doing a full blown restoration.

I spoke with Ted through email before joining PM. He doesn't have much left for the 1307. He is one heck of a nice guy.

I have a pack of 1307 literature, but not sure how much (if any) is service stuff. Will look.

What in the world do you want GEARBOX TORQUE info. for? In 65+years of making chips, I don't think that I ever saw those figures for any lathe...........Or do you mean gearbox fastener torque?

Herb

Herb
I'm referring to torque specs for preload on the spindle. The previous owner completely dismantled the machine. I can't complain too awfully much though. I bought the machine, and all of the parts seem to be there. Although it is a big inconvenience to reassemble the machine, I stole it for a mere $300 and it came with 3 chucks( 1 being a Bison), 2 sets of 5c collets with the draw bar and closer, and a brand new set of hand reamers.

OK SME.

Let me see if the pack of info that I have gives that figure, I hope that your bearings are OK, as I'll bet that new ones will make you choke.

Herb

Images of project

He already purchased the last rear spindle bearing setup new from south bend after taking the old one apart. Then he tried removing the cage from the front bearing to clean it. $1750.00 each for MRC originals. Thank goodness I grew up in the days when you knew to cross reference part numbers. I managed to find a pair of new in box surplus Fafnirs on eBay for the whopping sum of $90.

Wow... I've had automatic transmissions brought in in boxes but never thought of a lathe.

Generally I say if it's built by humans I can rebuild it but, you've got your work cut out.

Good Luck

Wow, you got your work cut out for you. Good luck!

allan

Wow... I've had automatic transmissions brought in in boxes but never thought of a lathe.

Generally I say if it's built by humans I can rebuild it but, you've got your work cut out.

Good Luck

I think it will take more patience than luck, at least that's what I'm telling myself...

OK I looked, and in the''operator and service'' manual that I have, it gives instructions on adjusting normal wear items, like gibs, etc--but no mention of heavy repairs like the spindle. Probably that was considered the provenance of the ''Gods'' at De Jung, in Korea, where it was made. Considering that the spindle will rev 3000, I certainly wouldn't preload it too much. I would put a piece of barstock in the spindle, and put a tenth indicator on the top side of the chuck. Tighten the bearings until about 10 pounds force about a foot out on the bar up and down just fails to move the indicator, then check the same way for end play. Then add just a little more preload. In the first 20 minutes of so of running the bearings will seat in, and the preload will loosen slightly, and may need a slight re-adjustment. The difference between a $1750 bearing, and a $90 bearing can very well be the ''class'' or concentricity. Everyday--made by the million bearings--are ABEC 3 class. Electric motor bearings are ABEC 5's for quality motors.Spindle bearings should ABEC 7 at least. There are extra codes as to the internal ''looseness'' of bearings meant for high speeds, usually denoted by etched small zero's on the outer race. SO- if your $90 bearing compares in regard to every spec to the old ones (ABEC numbers may only appear on the box) You got a bargain. If not, you just got a bearing --at nearly list price. If, as I suspect that is the case, take the old one, wash it in clean kerosene or fuel oil, and see how it feels when you turn and spin it by hand. Don't be a little kid and spin it with an air hose--that can scuff the balls or rollers- If it feels OK in every respect,use it and put your bargain on the shelf--You will be better off, believe me. If the old one is truly beyond hope, expect some concentricy issues from the new, ABEC 3 one.

On a totaly different note, did you notice that the cross slide ways are somehow impregnated with ''tungtsen carbide''? A little quality touch.

Herb

The 1307 was made in South Bend, not Korea.
Ted

Not according to the fellow at South Bend that helped me by looking through the files and sending me all that he could find at that time. This was about 15 years ago.

The design of the machine wasn't even a South Bend product. An identical lathe was made (here) by Sidney, and South Bend bought the design. There was a fellow on this forum a few years back who had one--a Sidney-- and I helped him with some info.

Herb

Herb in Delco said:

Not according to the fellow at South Bend that helped me by looking through the files and sending me all that he could find at that time. This was about 15 years ago.

The design of the machine wasn't even a South Bend product. An identical lathe was made (here) by Sidney, and South Bend bought the design. There was a fellow on this forum a few years back who had one--a Sidney-- and I helped him with some info.

Herb

Click to expand...

Who ever you spoke to was wrong.
Ted

Regarding the spindle bearings, I just finished rebuilding a Logan with spindle ball bearings. I first soaked them in Stoddard solvent, got them as clean as I could, then ultrasonic cleaned them. The bearing seemed clean after the solvent, but unbelievably crapped up after the ultrasonic. Went back and forth doing this until there was no change. Assembled them in the lathe. Quiet as brand new.

Tom