Old Large Worthington air compressor

Shadycreek007 · Feb 6, 2019

Just picked up at auction this old compressor, has continental f226 inline six from what I can tell.. This thing looked like scrap and hasn't ran since early 90's. To my surprise, an hour of tweaks, it runs and rather well considering it's condition. Here's where I'm at, running compressor, ( two stage, two cylinder into one cylinder) the inter cooler pressure is the same as receiver. I'm assuming check valve not holding in second stage to the receiver.?? Before I dive in, does anyone have experience with this? What are the four high rise bolt/nuts in the center on the head? Could this be where springs are or would that be too simple? Have pictures, just got to figure out how to post. I'm new to posting on here although this site is my go to when I encounter new projects. Thanks, Mike in texas

dalmatiangirl61 · Feb 6, 2019

We need pics! Actually sounds like a small Worthington, I have the cast iron tag off a big one, its about 3' long, took 2 semi's to haul the compressor.

Shadycreek007 · Feb 6, 2019

Size is relative, I have the tag and the machine. How do I post pictures, I don't see a link.

dalmatiangirl61 · Feb 6, 2019

Click on "Reply", scroll down below until you see "go advanced", click, scroll down past text window to "manage attachments" click, window pops up, in upper right corner "add files" click, small window will open, find "browse" click, find your pic, click maybe double click on it, then click on "upload", wait for it to load, then hit submit

Shadycreek007 · Feb 9, 2019

Shadycreek007 · Feb 9, 2019

The image insert was not available on phone, had to switch to laptop.

rj1939 · Feb 9, 2019

It isn't a bad idea to clean the check valves, they get cruddy over the years

handsome devil · Feb 10, 2019

Very cool. Hope you don't find parts hard to find but you might? I bought a 1967 Gardner Denver 150 CFM supposed to have Continental 6 cyl but some one put a Ford 300 ci 6 cyl in it. I have not linked up with the right guy with the right parts. Mostly the separator filter. It has been a real pain and trying to find anything that will work. I had to build a filter for a similar GD that got submerged in a flood. But that one was easier. That one needs a subtractive pilot valve I think. Not unloading and releasing pressure through the safety valve. Could be inlet valve as well. Don't know your compressor but sure someone will have an answer or thought soon enough. Do you have any idea on the year built? My 1967 is a screw compressor with an oil {ATF} pump. The next series the pump was eliminated from what I was told. Guessing yours is from the late 1950s? WAG on my part. I don't see the old recips that often when I am looking at these old towables. Just like other industrial compressors parts can be an issue on 40-50 yr old compressors. Congrats on yours running already.

I spent a lot of time cleaning mine out as the previous owners mixed motor oil in with the ATF and I had a sludge pot. When I cranked it over initially I could feel it trying to pump air, but the filters and half the hyd lines were plugged solid. That sludge is some of the worse crap I have had to deal with ever. And stink. Was a real mess. Once I get the filter thing squared away I can go after the motor which I think is ok but needs tune up parts and we shall see what happens. In the spring not now.

Please keep us updated on your success. Very cool machine you got there. Regards, John.

Gazz · Feb 10, 2019

Now that it is running, you should put some air in that tire.

handsome devil · Feb 10, 2019

Is this compressor making air and just not getting up to pressure? Not sure by description. On the newer screw compressors just slightly newer than yours, the subtractive pilot valve and inlet valve control loading and unloading pressure. So if its unloading it will only pump so much pressure. But I would think you could hear the air running out? Did you let it get hot as in running temps? Sitting this long it may just need to be run a few times to loosen up? The compressor that went through the flood hadn't been run for 2-3 years at a time and had sat for a couple years before going in the drink. Finally running it took a few times for it to settle down and start running like a reasonable compressor ought too. I had used this a couple years earlier and it was releasing pressure through the safety valve which is not right. So that repair is not flood damage. But to much pressure could be the opposite end of the same stick as to why your won't build pressure? A shot in the dark and I don't claim to be a pump mechanic. But I am learning on these screw compressors as I go. As simple as these things are they can still teach you a lot in making them run again and keep them operating as they should. Again good luck. John.

john.k · Feb 10, 2019

Its a 3cyl /2 stage piston compressor.......where does screw come into it?..........if the inter pressure is high ,it will have leaking/carboned/worn delivery valves in the LP cylinders....Take out the valve cages and clean and inspect the valves......that will most likely cure the problems.

handsome devil · Feb 11, 2019

"Its a 3cyl /2 stage piston compressor.......where does screw come into it?........."

I am able to see the pictures that is is a 3 cyl recip. Was only offering what I have found on my GD as a problem building pressure and it may very well be in the controls. I only offered it in a chance that it might be control related? Or not. Sorry I blew up. Regards, John.

john.k · Feb 11, 2019

Sorry,HD,didnt mean to sound cranky.........Ill have to get out more....dont want to turn into another PM forum troll .

handsome devil · Feb 11, 2019

No problem. I too need to get out more. And for what it is worth I agree with your dx. My 1940 Champion recip wouldn't make pressure very fast at all and the springs were all but not working anymore so replaced valves, springs and rings. Unfortunately is spins around 800 rpm and is not a big CFM maker. But your DX is probably right on. Regards, John.

Shadycreek007 · Feb 12, 2019

handsome devil said:
Very cool. Hope you don't find parts hard to find but you might? I bought a 1967 Gardner Denver 150 CFM supposed to have Continental 6 cyl but some one put a Ford 300 ci 6 cyl in it. I have not linked up with the right guy with the right parts. Mostly the separator filter. It has been a real pain and trying to find anything that will work. I had to build a filter for a similar GD that got submerged in a flood. But that one was easier. That one needs a subtractive pilot valve I think. Not unloading and releasing pressure through the safety valve. Could be inlet valve as well. Don't know your compressor but sure someone will have an answer or thought soon enough. Do you have any idea on the year built? My 1967 is a screw compressor with an oil {ATF} pump. The next series the pump was eliminated from what I was told. Guessing yours is from the late 1950s? WAG on my part. I don't see the old recips that often when I am looking at these old towables. Just like other industrial compressors parts can be an issue on 40-50 yr old compressors. Congrats on yours running already.

I spent a lot of time cleaning mine out as the previous owners mixed motor oil in with the ATF and I had a sludge pot. When I cranked it over initially I could feel it trying to pump air, but the filters and half the hyd lines were plugged solid. That sludge is some of the worse crap I have had to deal with ever. And stink. Was a real mess. Once I get the filter thing squared away I can go after the motor which I think is ok but needs tune up parts and we shall see what happens. In the spring not now.

Please keep us updated on your success. Very cool machine you got there. Regards, John.

Sounds like a fun project you have as well. I assume this is made in the 50's. I'm just a jack of all trades, master of none. I find the thrill to be in the hunt and bringing old stuff that I never seen before back to life. I originally planned on getting motor running just enough to prove compressor. I figured i'd sell compressor once proven and make a art deco BBQ pit out of the trailer. Now that I see with it running smooth that I will try to keep it whole. I have found the continental engine parts are scarce and pricy. The exhaust manifold has a whole corner rusted open and was packed with its own rust. Of course that's right by the start button and I got sand blasted. The manifold used on ebay is $500. I'll pass on that for now and make a patch for this one.
Now, compressor topic, as mentioned the inter cooler and the receiver have the same pressure, I ran it up to 100 psi and stopped it not knowing the inter cooler limits. The second stage cylinder is after cooler and before receiver. I don't see that any thing else would change those values and assume it's in the check valve on top of that cylinder. My main question was the four tall nut/bolts that appear not to be head bolts may have the check valve springs below them, if so, I may access the springs without pulling the valve head. Now that the weather is getting better than last week, I will be getting back on it exploratory. I'm waiting on a low pressure 12v fuel pump as the original mechanical is weeping badly. will keep posted as I go forward.

Shadycreek007 · Feb 12, 2019

handsome devil said:
Is this compressor making air and just not getting up to pressure? Not sure by description. On the newer screw compressors just slightly newer than yours, the subtractive pilot valve and inlet valve control loading and unloading pressure. So if its unloading it will only pump so much pressure. But I would think you could hear the air running out? Did you let it get hot as in running temps? Sitting this long it may just need to be run a few times to loosen up? The compressor that went through the flood hadn't been run for 2-3 years at a time and had sat for a couple years before going in the drink. Finally running it took a few times for it to settle down and start running like a reasonable compressor ought too. I had used this a couple years earlier and it was releasing pressure through the safety valve which is not right. So that repair is not flood damage. But to much pressure could be the opposite end of the same stick as to why your won't build pressure? A shot in the dark and I don't claim to be a pump mechanic. But I am learning on these screw compressors as I go. As simple as these things are they can still teach you a lot in making them run again and keep them operating as they should. Again good luck. John.

John, It's making pressure but I think second stage isn't holding back pressure or isn't boosting pressure. I have run it to 100psi but shut it down with inter and receiver pressure being the same. I don't know limits of the inter cooler but it was about to exceed that gage. in my mind the pressure should be like ie: inter 60 & receiver 100+... and of course increase as it runs but should be a differential there. There's nothing between the cylinders and the inter cooler and receiver other than the cylinders and the valves they contain. Nothing like an outside regulator. I'll do some wrench turning and update later... thanks, Mike

Shadycreek007 · Feb 12, 2019

Shadycreek007 said:
John, It's making pressure but I think second stage isn't holding back pressure or isn't boosting pressure. I have run it to 100psi but shut it down with inter and receiver pressure being the same. I don't know limits of the inter cooler but it was about to exceed that gage. in my mind the pressure should be like ie: inter 60 & receiver 100+... and of course increase as it runs but should be a differential there. There's nothing between the cylinders and the inter cooler and receiver other than the cylinders and the valves they contain. Nothing like an outside regulator. I'll do some wrench turning and update later... thanks, Mike

Oh BOY, I need inter cooler school I guess. In new light and wiping the dust off gage, I now notice the inter cooler pressure is oil pressure, not air. Confirmed by pulling line. Now it does rise and fall exactly as the receiver pressure. So, Maybe this means the inter cooler is failing????? maybe the reason they stopped using it 26 years ago? air pressure is getting into the oil jacket? Does this intercooler cool down oil to the compressor rather than cooling the air as my brain was telling me? I got onto that track because of a shop compressor I bought recently has a inter cooler for the air before it goes to receiver. No oil in that one! I think, ugh... LOL. Back to the drawing board... I will pursue that direction now.

Shadycreek007 · Feb 12, 2019

Gazz said:
Now that it is running, you should put some air in that tire.

don't quit your day job

Shadycreek007 · Feb 12, 2019

Okay, the oil line goes from the gage to the top of inter cooler. I do not see the oil to be going anywhere. The only other intercooler plumbing I see is the large ones from first stage into the bottom and the large one going back to second stage. So does this oil just sit in the cooler and not flow? The inter cooler oil psi gage goes up to 80 and the receiver up to 200. The pressures equalize up and down exactly the same. This tells me the two are interconnected. right? The drain plug on the bottom of the intercooler I assume is for water that gets trapped because it was removed when I got it and no oil there. But there is oil in the top of it because that's where the line goes to gage and I verified it there. I'm juggling this project with a hydraulic power unit for jack hammer and a Induma Knee mill that I am getting going for my garage. Thanks for any educated input along with humor. Mike

magneticanomaly · Feb 12, 2019

A line from a LP head to the HP head is going to be air, not oil. If the gage face says oil pressure, I'd assume the gage was changed. Disconnect something and see what comes out.

Intercooler P equal to receiver P means something wrong in the HP pump...bad valves, most likely. I would take all the heads off. I'm sure in addition to better access to clean valves, you will find other crud to clean out.

Another thing to look at is the unloader. That is a device that holds the compressor valves open so it cannot pump, whenever receiver pressure is above set-point. Unlike an electric motor-driven compressor, yours does not stop and start.

Old Large Worthington air compressor

Plastic

Diamond

Plastic

Diamond

Plastic

Plastic

Stainless

Hot Rolled

Stainless

Hot Rolled

Diamond

Hot Rolled

Diamond

Hot Rolled

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Titanium

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