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OT Clamping diode on inductor

Jeremy

Hot Rolled
Joined
May 19, 2002
How would one go about sizing a diode to be used as a clamping diode for an electric clutch coil? In this case, the clutch is on a garden tractor...unknown inductance, 12V DC electrical system. Switches that control the clutch are burning out fairly quickly, but the clutch seems to work just fine.
 
The diode does not have to be as beefy as you might initially think. Without the diode, the voltage generated may be in the hundreds of volts (if not higher), but with the diode in place, the voltage that the diode sees is only ever Vfwd of the diode (e.g., ~0.6V).

Also, even a tiny 1N4148 has a forward continuous current max of 300 mA. The peak forward surge current is 2A (!), but only for 1 uS; in my testing (on small 5V relays), it could take ~20ms for the energy in the inductor to dissipate, so you'd have to derate a lot from 2A. But, 2A at the extreme end and 300 mA on the low end gives you an idea of the range that can be handled safely by the diode.

The hard part that I don't know the answer to, is what the actual forward current seen by the diode. I assume that the problem that the diode faces is one of heat dissipation. That's going to depend on the coil inductance, which for a 12V solenoid is likely going to be much higher than the puny 5V relays I mentioned. But, considering how "stout" at 1N4148 is, if you were to go to a diode a little bigger, it'd probably be fine.

So my suggestion would be to start with the venerable 1N4148 and see if it pops--worst case, it pops. If it doesn't, problem solved. If it does, go to a fast switching panel mount diode, if such a thing exists. Otherwise, a rectifer panel mount diode is probably fine.

HTH
 
The hard part that I don't know the answer to, is what the actual forward current seen by the diode.

That's easy. The forward current seen by the diode is the same current that was flowing through the coil when the power was cut.

That's the whole reason the diode is needed in the first place... The coil doesn't want the current to change value, and it'll do whatever it can (like producing a huge voltage) to keep that current flowing. The diode just gives the coil an easy place for that current to flow without producing a huge voltage.

So, in theory, you need a diode capable of carrying a peak forward current equal to the clutch coil draw. It also needs to be able to carry that current long enough for it to decay to zero before the diode burns out.
 
Try a 1N5401,2,3,4 as they are about 4 amps continuous (depending upon lead length) and will effectively suppress the spike from the clutch coil. They will easily dissipate the coil surge while limiting the peak voltage. This is old school electronics often forgotten by later engineers.
 
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Try an MOV instead of a diode. The MOVs resistance will dissipate energy while a diode simply keeps the current circulating until the coil resistance eats it up.

Bill
 
The 1N4148 is a general purpose, silicone, SIGNAL diode. It is thought of as an updated 1N914 (a classic) and the two are somewhat interchangeable. For damping the spikes from an inductor I would suggest a power type diode as it would be a lot more robust. I have seen the 1N400X series used extensively for this. They are all rated at least at 1 Amp and the Voltages range from 50 Volts for the 1N4001 to 600 Volts for the 1N4005. They are fast enough for spike suppression. Almost any of them would be OK for your 12 Volt system. And they are quite inexpensive: I buy them by the hundred for $10 or less ($0.10 each). Probably double that in small quantities.
 
Try an MOV instead of a diode. The MOVs resistance will dissipate energy while a diode simply keeps the current circulating until the coil resistance eats it up.

Bill

Shouldn't really matter in this application.
Makes difference if you need really fast action like fuel injectors or reed relays switching in millisecond range but not much issue in garden tractor electric clutch.
 
I think you guys have it all wrong. The purpose of a clamping diode is to block back EMF from exceeding the the reverse bias voltage of the driver transistor. Since there is only a switch, this doesn't fix the problem of burning out contacts. The real answer is a very large cap. This gives the switch contacts adequate time to get enough dielectric air (space)between the contacts to prevent arcing.
 
I think you guys have it all wrong. The purpose of a clamping diode is to block back EMF from exceeding the the reverse bias voltage of the driver transistor. Since there is only a switch, this doesn't fix the problem of burning out contacts. The real answer is a very large cap. This gives the switch contacts adequate time to get enough dielectric air (space)between the contacts to prevent arcing.

Diode clamps the reverse voltage spike to less than 1 volt when the contacts open and there is not going to be any sparking.

Capacitor has been used traditionally in ignition points either because it forms part of the LC resonant circuit or ignition is powered by ac source (magneto in small engines)
Diode clamping here would stop the spark plug also from sparking and MOV or zener would end up with huge power loss and reduced spark energy at plug. But op's problem was not ignition points.
 
Diode clamps the reverse voltage spike to less than 1 volt when the contacts open and there is not going to be any sparking.

Capacitor has been used traditionally in ignition points either because it forms part of the LC resonant circuit or ignition is powered by ac source (magneto in small engines)
Diode clamping here would stop the spark plug also from sparking and MOV or zener would end up with huge power loss and reduced spark energy at plug. But op's problem was not ignition points.

I disagree. There will be arcing. The cap acts as a small battery keeping the appliance energized long enough to create an isolating air gap. It's easy enough to test, don't take my word for it, test it if you have doubts. Consider for a moment a reversing motor as in an autopilot. In that application a diode could not work, but a large cap does.
 
It's truly amazing the electronic engineering knowledge available from the real machinists around. :-)
...lewie... (spent all my working life as an electronic engineer)
 
I disagree. There will be arcing. The cap acts as a small battery keeping the appliance energized long enough to create an isolating air gap. It's easy enough to test, don't take my word for it, test it if you have doubts. Consider for a moment a reversing motor as in an autopilot. In that application a diode could not work, but a large cap does.

No surprise there, can't use parallel diode with motor if you want to reverse the motor direction. But again this was garden tractor clutch, not autopilot motor nor fuel injector.
 
I disagree. There will be arcing.

No, there will not be any arcing. You're putting the cart before the horse. The diode provides a low resistance path for the coil current to continue to flow after the switch has been opened so the coil never has to produce any significant voltage in the first place.

Because it's a low resistance path, it doesn't take a lot of voltage to push that current through it. In fact, the coil only needs to produce enough voltage to forward bias the diode (less than one Volt). And since the voltage is so low, there will be no arcing.

So when DOES arcing occur? It occurs when the only path for the inductor's current to continue to flow is a HIGH resistance path - like the air gap between the switch contacts. If that air gap is the lowest resistance path, the coil will produce a very high voltage to jump that gap.

The point is... The diode gives the coil a completely different, easy to use, path for that current to flow so it doesn't have to jump the air gap in the switch.

And I agree... Don't take my word for it. Test it. Start here:

ffb499f6125dac585f351653651f4fffcff273c1
 
Just went through this problem on a buddy's older model 25HP Scag zero turn mower. The electronic ignition timing module, safety interlock module and clutch switch were having longevity issues. Checking the service bulletins, it was a known issue, on machines with the Kohler engine. The engine manufacturer redesigned the entire ignition system to eliminate the service problem from reoccurring.

Later, the machine manufacturer, came up with a diode clamping kit, to wire directly across the PTO clutch coil, to eliminate the high reverse voltage spikes. In later designs the clamping diode became standard equipment.
The diode they chose was a 1N5408.

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SAF Ω
 
Later, the machine manufacturer, came up with a diode clamping kit, to wire directly across the PTO clutch coil, to eliminate the high reverse voltage spikes. In later designs the clamping diode became standard equipment.
The diode they chose was a 1N5408.
Good choice.
The 1N5408 is rated 3 amps at 1000 PIV.

I use them for all similar clamping requirements for relays and such.

- Leigh
 
As mentioned, the current at the instant of opening the circuit is the same current that exists just after that.

Then the current decays, as energy is used up in the resistance of the coil, and the forward voltage of the diode. The diode holds the voltage to the supply voltage plus a diode drop (whatever it is at that current). This is because "X" amount of "volt seconds" of energy is stored in the inductance (1/2 x L x I^2 )

The diode needs to easily handle the current for the time it takes to decay. They are cheap enough that in most cases it costs more to spend time optimizing to find the smallest diode that can be used. Decay time is important for the relay release time, which may be an important issue, however.

To improve decay time, a small resistor can be added.... size that so that (R x I) plus the diode drop does not exceed your safe voltage. The resistance will speed the opening of the relay etc, by removing energy faster. (it is volt-seconds again.....The volts are made higher during the dissipation time, so seconds are smaller, the energy is removed faster)

The capacitor idea is actually good for ignition, but bad for relays. First, it increases the turn-on surge of the switching transistor, which has to charge the cap and supply coil current. Also, it stores even more energy, and that needs to be dissipated before the relay opens.

It can be done by combining the capacitor with a resistor, forming a standard arc damper. But BOTH are needed, and you need to consider the "Q" of the resonance, to make sure the energy is removed quickly. The resistor does the dissipation, adjusting the "Q" (sharpness of resonance and time to dissipate energy) to allow a quick relay release. Diodes are usually less trouble and often cheaper, both in cost and in PC board space. Years ago, capacitors were cheaper than the rectifiers, and were commonly used. (Still are where diodes are not appropriate, as in AC circuite). MOVs are good if you can tolerate the voltage, because they increase the volts, and so decrease the seconds, the time to release the relay.

In an ignition, you want to KEEP the energy IN the coil core, and redirect it to the secondary to make a spark. The capacitor does that, and allows a re-strike spark, since there is a resonance, so there is a chance to have multiple sparks. In the process, the voltage at the points can reach several hundred volts in a 12V system, repeatedly. This is NOT what you want in a relay coil, where you want to quickly dissipate the energy (volt seconds) that exists in the relay coil, and limit the voltage.
 
I think you guys have it all wrong. The purpose of a clamping diode is to block back EMF from exceeding the the reverse bias voltage of the driver transistor. Since there is only a switch, this doesn't fix the problem of burning out contacts. The real answer is a very large cap. This gives the switch contacts adequate time to get enough dielectric air (space)between the contacts to prevent arcing.

Maybe I figured out the misunderstanding.

You are probably thinking of placing the diode parallel to switch contacts. (not working or at least there is good risk of toasting the diode with high voltage spike.)
And "everyone" else assumes its where it should be, parallel with the load/inductance. (works)

Capacitor would "sort of" work in both cases but diode is different animal.
If the diode is placed across the switch contacts it has to be zener diode with suitable ratings.
 








 
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