Leblond Dual Drive headstock shaft removal help

Head Friend,
I recently pick up a leblond dual drive lathe and need to do some repair work to get it up and running again. The shaft that the main drive pulley is attached to, has pretty much been destroy and I need to get it out, so I can repair the end and reattach the pulley correctly. Just wondering if anyone has had to remove this shaft and if so do they have any pointers. I start to remove it and it was coming out but then bound up and I don't want to force it and break something. Here is a picture of the parts breakdown of the lathe and the shaft I need to remove is labeled #2. Thanks for any help and insight


Danny

A photo of the parts list that goes with that drawing would be helpful.

Regards Tyrone.

Danny I have had headstocks out on several lathes....you look like you have a good manual. Be sure you manual is for your machine. John Oder is the forums resident manual expert and a hell of a rebuilder too. I hope he adds something. I see there is a cover retaining the left side bearing, hopefully you have it loose. Also check the gears on the shaft to be sure they don't have 2 sets screws in them so they stay in place and hold the key in place. Double check to be sure the gears have clearance on the other gears on the other shafts. Sometimes you have to pull the other shafts first. If all has been done many times the keys get galled and stick in the gear. You can write me and we can exchange phone numbers too. Rich

check out these manuals...should be one for you. R. K. LeBlond Machine Tool Co. - Publication Reprints | VintageMachinery.org

Subscribed as I have the same machine.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Like items 58 - probably set screws to pump shaft key. Seems these would "retard" shaft removal

Thanks for the input guys ,
I have attached the parts list to the first post so it if you want to check it out you can. As far as set screws go, I can't find any on the machine and the parts list does not mention there being any. When I have the puller under tension the other gears in the head stock are free and shaft #2 should pull out without interfering with them. As far as the coupler that attaches the pump and the drive shaft, it is free floating and just held in place with the key and the fact that the two shafts but up to each other. I can move it back and for with my screw driver when everything is under tension from the puller. Also here is the link to the manual that I am using for the machine.

The shaft did pull out about 3/8" and then stopped but at that point I was just taking the slack up between gear 67 and the headstock casting after that it wouldn't budge. I thinking that the gears might just be stock on and I need more force before they will break loose. Here is a picture of the inside of the headstock and a picture of the shaft from the outside. The bottom shaft is the one I'm trying to remove and like I said when under tension from the puller the gears in the headstock move freely.

Thanks again guys,

Danny
http://www.neme-s.org/Shaper Books/...egal Lathe/LeBlond No 4 Dual Drive Manual.pdf

Just because the parts list does not show a set screw or call out doesn't mean it is not there. Rotate the shaft fully and make positive sure there is no set screws. Blowing up the drawing does not show any but you never know. Doesn't appear to be anything else in the the shaft assembly that would stop it from coming out.
If the drive shaft is not drilled and tapped on the end, do so. Say 1/2-13 thread. That way you can attach a slide hammer to the end of the shaft and gently pull the shaft out. This way you minimize damage that could be caused by a swinging hammer and such. Ken

Well I got the shaft out and did no additional damage to it. There are no set screws, I just needed to make my puller setup a little bit more rigid and that did the trick. It was deflecting more then it was pulling and the gears where pretty stuck on there. Here a pictures of the shaft now that it is out. You can see that the key way and threads that hold the drive pulley, are completely ruined. The plan is to built it up with the tig and remachine that whole end of the shaft back to factory spec.

Thanks again for the help and advice,

Danny

Well done. If you intend welding the shaft up you will probably have to turn it down and then weld it up all around. That way you minimise distortion. Also put a run at 12 o clock then 6 o'clock and weld opposite all the way around. Don't weld 1 o'clock, 2 o'clock, 3 o'clock. Just welding the keyway up will probably bend the shaft end slightly.
Mark where the keyway is on the end of the shaft. When you mill the new keyway put it 180 degrees away from where the old keyway was.

Regards Tyrone.

While you are at it, drill and tap the end of the shaft for the next time the shaft has to be pulled. A healthy slide hammer would have prevented that damage as shown. That's how my dad used to pull shafts out of the head stocks of lathes back many years ago when he worked as a machine tool technician. LeBlond's, Lodge & Shipley's, Warner Swasey's and Lehmann's lathes were his common lathes to work on back then. I still have his slide hammer and still get's used once in a while on lathe rebuilding I do now. Ken