Face to length bar stock

bowbrow · Jan 28, 2020

Hello, I need some help learning, or get some pointers on how to face both sides of sawed bar stock, while getting it to a specific length (12.635in to 12.539in). Anything will be helpful, sorry if this is posted in the wrong catagory.

atex57 · Jan 28, 2020

bowbrow said:
Hello, I need some help learning, or get some pointers on how to face both sides of sawed bar stock, while getting it to a specific length (12.635in to 12.539in). Anything will be helpful, sorry if this is posted in the wrong catagory.

For that kind of tolerance a tape measure is good to go.

What machines do you have?

Ed.

Milland · Jan 28, 2020

Start by telling us what machines and tooling you have access to, and accuracy requirements besides OAL (squareness, etc.). How thick and wide is the material, not to mention what is it (Al, steel?). Rectangular? Round? And how much experience do you have setting up the machines?

That's a pretty damn open length tolerance...

Cole2534 · Jan 28, 2020

Saw off, skin cut 1st face, measure, skin cut 2nd face, measure, adjust, recut 2nd face to desired length.

There's faster ways, but that's the basic outline.

Delw · Jan 29, 2020

Make or buy an extension for a collet stop if yours unsing a collet, if your using a chuck, take out the chip shield in the center(three bolts) make an Identical one that has a deep counter bore in it with a 1/2-20 threaded bolt that you can adjust. mack sure if you make a long one that you make it close to the draw tube dia so you dont get vibration. screw that on in place of the dust cover and your golden

Scruffy887 · Jan 29, 2020

Stick it in the chuck.
Face the end.
Transfer to sub spindle, may need to swallow twice because of length.
Face other end.
To be sure you start with an over length part and first attempt you program the part a bit long. Measure actual length against program length and adjust from there.
Assuming you have a sub spindle lathe like the rest of us.

Hardplates · Jan 29, 2020

Do we even know if this is turning work? With those tolerances a bandsaw might be the final op. WAY too many details left out.

EmGo · Jan 29, 2020

You guys don't have the machine disease bad enough. I'd be looking for a double-headed Cincinnati production mill. Drop the parts on v-blocks and run em between the cutters. Chunk chunk chunk done.

If you can find one, I bet those things don't bring five hundred bucks.

Ox · Jan 29, 2020

EmanuelGoldstein said:
If you can find one, I bet those things don't bring five hundred bucks.

Last I knew - they fetched real $.

-------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

DDoug · Jan 29, 2020

I did a job like this (but to within .005 on the length) years ago on the Oac chucker.

Simply placed the barstock in the chuck to a hard stop (stepped jaw on this short piece).

Face, and chamfer, drill and bore.

Stop cycle, remove part, toss a simple H&G washer into chuck to space part out a pre-determined distance.

Put part back in chuck (other end sticking out) complete cycle with another face & chamfer.

litlerob1 · Jan 29, 2020

I like to Face one end on all 5,000,000,000,000 pieces. Then set some sort of stop up to do the other end.

Or use a robot gantry, and face to face turning centers with 8 spindles each. Since we have no idea what have.

R

Hardplates · Jan 29, 2020

litlerob1 said:
I like to Face one end on all 5,000,000,000,000 pieces. Then set some sort of stop up to do the other end.

Or use a robot gantry, and face to face turning centers with 8 spindles each. Since we have no idea what have.

R

With numbers like that I would likely sub it out for a penny less per unit and retire off all the pennies.

guest · Jan 29, 2020

I have adjustable stops that go down the drawtube for long pieces, and a 16C collet stop for short pieces.

G54 is the first end, leaves the part long. G55 is the second end, face to finish length. M00 in the middle of the program to swap ends.

The only caveat is that if the material varies in diameter, it affects the length when using the 3-jaw, since the stop is moving with the drawtube. Normally not an issue and it's not hard to hold .002" in length as long as I am checking the diameters.

Guest · Jan 29, 2020

What is the type and diameter of material? How many pieces? What machines do you have at your disposal? We cannot give proper help without more information.

Guest · Jan 29, 2020

atex57 said:
For that kind of tolerance a tape measure is good to go.

What machines do you have?

Ed.

If he was facing cast bronze in rounds using a lathe with a collet closer, a tape measure might not be good enough. I have seen round bars of that crap that were .050 out of round and had .100 taper from one end to the other in sizes less than 1".

jrmach · Jan 29, 2020

stick in a mill vise.That way you can mount a stop to the bed .Faster than a lathe if diameter not too big.Course we don't know what you are doing exactly from your vague information in the wrong section of the Forum.

EmGo · Jan 29, 2020

Ox said:
Last I knew - they fetched real $.

I guess the supply dried up ? I miss Stan Salles ... and Coastal ! Both those guys had old junk for good prices.

You could do it on a cheap horizontal with a multi-v-block setup .... have to swing them around once tho. The little K&T's don't take much space.

Ox · Jan 29, 2020

Search Results for "duplex" - MachineTools.com

-----------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

EmGo · Jan 30, 2020

Ox said:
Search Results for "duplex" - MachineTools.com

Speaking of not putting prices on things ...

If those are at that Great American place, I bet they are pricy ! Those boys sure are proud of their stuff ...

But that 7 axis spar mill, Ox .... that's right up your alley ! You could set every fixture you own on it and just drive the gantry back and forth to go from job to job

edit: I blew the photo up and see Yoder. Those guys seem to be okay. But this one is a bit small, he needs more air between the cutters.

I bet you could do a cheap horizontal though with two BIG cutters spaced 25" apart on an arbor, then drive the parts between. Make some aluminum V fixtures, stack them six deep and grab the feed handle ? Should be into it less than a thousand bucks and it would be very automatic, even the floor sweeper could change parts and run it ?

gregormarwick · Jan 30, 2020

EmanuelGoldstein said:
I bet you could do a cheap horizontal though with two BIG cutters spaced 25" apart on an arbor, then drive the parts between. Make some aluminum V fixtures, stack them six deep and grab the feed handle ? Should be into it less than a thousand bucks and it would be very automatic, even the floor sweeper could change parts and run it ?

Big horizontal mills are like hens teeth here. It seems like they should be plentiful and bring scrap money, and I would have one in a heartbeat for this and a handful of other things that they are really good at.

I imagine they were plentiful and brought scrap money a couple of decades ago, and they all ended up in the scrapyard.

Duplex mills are even rarer it seems. I think maybe once or twice in all the time I've been in this trade I've seen one of those pop up for sale.

Face to length bar stock

Plastic

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Diamond

Stainless

Titanium

Stainless

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Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

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guest

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Guest

Guest

Guest

Guest

Titanium

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Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

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