What rust inhibitor areyou using for your machines?

Djstorm100 · Mar 27, 2020

My machine doesn't run everyday, some days may only run 2-3 times a week. Before every shutdown I wash the machine down (with tool in the spindle)and last thing I do is wipe the spindle down with lint free towel. If I know I'm not going to use the machine for a while I'll spray some wd40 on the tool holders and spindle... I know I should be tar and feathered. I have LP3 but I don't like the waxy residue left behind. Have to have a solvent to remove it before use.

A friend recommended CRC3-36, I just picked some up today.

What do you guys use on your spindle taper and your tool holders? Do you use a solvent/other to remove it before using the machine?

Mtndew · Mar 27, 2020

if we only use a machine 2-3 times a week I wouldn't even worry about rust prevention, your coolant should leave an oil film.
Does your shop have higher than normal humidity?

Djstorm100 · Mar 27, 2020

Humidity stays pretty normal. If I’m running both machines with flood turned 100% on, the humidity will start to rise to about 58-62% in. 70-72degree shop

I just wipe everything down, as a way to inspect the machine and keep everything in tip top shape. I’m a one man band, lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Corn · Mar 28, 2020

I also use occasionally my machines and after use apply some ISO-32 hydraulic fluid on way covers as well as lathe ways. Then by paint brush lather it to every exposed metal surfaces. I don`t use flood coolant though so maybe overkill, but I`m quite anal in taking care of my precisious tools.. Hydraulic fluid has rust inhibitors and you don`t need to wipe it off.

Ox · Mar 28, 2020

Djstorm100 said:
My machine doesn't run everyday, some days may only run 2-3 times a week. Before every shutdown I wash the machine down (with tool in the spindle)and last thing I do is wipe the spindle down with lint free towel. If I know I'm not going to use the machine for a while I'll spray some wd40 on the tool holders and spindle... I know I should be tar and feathered. I have LP3 but I don't like the waxy residue left behind. Have to have a solvent to remove it before use.

A friend recommended CRC3-36, I just picked some up today.

What do you guys use on your spindle taper and your tool holders? Do you use a solvent/other to remove it before using the machine?

I can shut mine down for 2 years and not have rust all over.

???

What coolant are you using?
Synthetic? (I don't)

Maybe your coolant is separated?
Maybe you want to ask your coolant supplier what the working Ph level is s'posed to be, and fetch some test strips, and maybe some Ph adjuster snake oil?
(I doo)

Or, maybe just keep a spray bottle of fresh/heavy concentrated coolant at the machine to use to spray down when done.

------------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Murf · Mar 28, 2020

Djstorm100 said:
My machine doesn't run everyday, some days may only run 2-3 times a week. Before every shutdown I wash the machine down (with tool in the spindle)and last thing I do is wipe the spindle down with lint free towel. If I know I'm not going to use the machine for a while I'll spray some wd40 on the tool holders and spindle... I know I should be tar and feathered. I have LP3 but I don't like the waxy residue left behind. Have to have a solvent to remove it before use.

A friend recommended CRC3-36, I just picked some up today.

What do you guys use on your spindle taper and your tool holders? Do you use a solvent/other to remove it before using the machine?

The CRC3-36 is exactly what I have been using for 20+ years. Good stuff!

Murf

13engines · Mar 28, 2020

Djstorm100 said:
My machine doesn't run everyday, some days may only run 2-3 times a week. Before every shutdown I wash the machine down (with tool in the spindle)and last thing I do is wipe the spindle down with lint free towel. If I know I'm not going to use the machine for a while I'll spray some wd40 on the tool holders and spindle... I know I should be tar and feathered. I have LP3 but I don't like the waxy residue left behind. Have to have a solvent to remove it before use.

A friend recommended CRC3-36, I just picked some up today.

What do you guys use on your spindle taper and your tool holders? Do you use a solvent/other to remove it before using the machine?

I'm another who is not on board with this. I'll have a machine down for weeks sometimes and still no problems at all other then perhaps a vise left on a table too long and staining. I've now switched to QualChem 251C on all my machines. When that stuff drys back it leaves puddles of what appears to be pure oil. Can't imagine needing to add anything else. Even vises left bolted down for weeks show no problems at all when removed.

I have had small issues on my horizontal saw though using full synthetic.

Other then a quick wipe down on the tool holders they get nothing else. They're mostly stored in closed cabinets. I tear my tools down after every job, so I have 20 year old holders that are still in excellent shape. No added protecterant ever.

Remember hardened and ground surfaces like on tool holders and spindle bores get a somewhat not-by-design free benefit in that they are far less prone to corrosion then plain metal surfaces.

mjk · Mar 28, 2020

I've been using wd40 on aluminum in manual operations
Does the CRC3-36 perform same way for aluminum ?

cnctoolcat · Mar 28, 2020

On a related note, I've always been astounded at how so many shops will let their vmc tool-holders and spindle bores get just terrible! :confused:

I like to see "shiny new-looking" tool-holders, even years down the line. I will always stone any high spots on the shanks, and I like to use dull, extra fine/soft Scothbrite to give the tool shanks a whirl by hand when they need it. :leaving:

Yeah, you're not really supposed to do that because you can actually be removing material from the shank ...but I figure that's still better than letting crud and dings just overrun the entire tool shank...and thus the spindle! :eek:

ToolCat

Murf · Mar 28, 2020

mjk said:
I've been using wd40 on aluminum in manual operations
Does the CRC3-36 perform same way for aluminum ?

I use it for drilling/ turning aluminum all the time. I have never used wd40 so have no comparison to share. I wipe all my machines, tool holders and cutting tools down with the 3-36 and have never had rust issues. YMMV

Murf

swarf_rat · Mar 28, 2020

My machines may go for days, weeks, or months not being used. The corrosion problems I have are the unseen surfaces. Anything that can be seen - open to the air - dries quickly leaving an oil film from the coolant. However in places like under the vice jaws, between the soft and master jaw, under the vice bodies, it does not dry. Even two months on, take it apart and it's wet in there. And corrosion is happening. Worse between dissimilar metals but also even between like metals. Under the vice bodies I've taken to bedding them in anti-seize, which seems to mitigate corrosion for a long time. Can't really do that with the vice jaws. Spraying with WD or CRC or whatever has a small effect, it does not penetrate where the corrosion is. I've found no solution other than take the vices apart so they can dry.

This is in a very low humidity environment, 35% is typical.

Djstorm100 · Mar 28, 2020

Ox said:
I can shut mine down for 2 years and not have rust all over.

???

What coolant are you using?
Synthetic? (I don't)

Maybe your coolant is separated?
Maybe you want to ask your coolant supplier what the working Ph level is s'posed to be, and fetch some test strips, and maybe some Ph adjuster snake oil?
(I doo)

Or, maybe just keep a spray bottle of fresh/heavy concentrated coolant at the machine to use to spray down when done.

------------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

I'm not fighting any rusting issues or anything like that. Just asking and seeing what other people are doing to keep their machines in great shape is all. I don't like WD-40 for really anything.

Mud · Mar 28, 2020

Starrett M1. It's essentially vaseline in solvent with a few other anti rust ingredients like Lanolin. Expensive by the can compared to WD40 etc, but it's the best we've tried, stays easy to wipe off and most of all does not stain bare metal.

CarbideBob · Mar 28, 2020

Djstorm100 said:
...... If I know I'm not going to use the machine for a while I'll spray some wd40 on the tool holders and spindle... I know I should be tar and feathered......

Not gonna be tar and feathered from here, we use it all the time on holders, vises, fixtures and even gauge blocks.
All my coolant is water and synthetic, oil...yuck.
LPS3, yuck and goo. Good for long term storage but you can not pick it up, wipe with a lint-less towel and use.
Run your coolant concentration on the high side of allowable.
On machine mating surfaces, chucks and spindle mounts I use Mobil SHC-630 which is a gear lube.
Antisieze also good but it is a bit thick and influences mounting if not spread evenly.
In these a homemade paste made of white grease and STP also lasts a long time.

But for toolholders in the rack and spindle taper not in use WD-40 is my go to after many decades of trying and being sold on so many products.
Obviously if starting a machine not used for weeks or months you wipe and clean the taper before sticking anything in it and the same with holders.

I do know many hate it as "magic oil".
Bob

neilho · Mar 29, 2020

Mud said:
Starrett M1. It's essentially vaseline in solvent with a few other anti rust ingredients like Lanolin. Expensive by the can compared to WD40 etc, but it's the best we've tried, stays easy to wipe off and most of all does not stain bare metal.

What Mud said...

Smells much better than WD40, too.

toolite · Apr 9, 2020

I like LPS1, it's what I use on most things these days.
LPS2 for longer term storage.
LPS3 under the mill vise.

Bobw · Apr 9, 2020

swarf_rat said:
My machines may go for days, weeks, or months not being used. The corrosion problems I have are the unseen surfaces. Anything that can be seen - open to the air - dries quickly leaving an oil film from the coolant. However in places like under the vice jaws, between the soft and master jaw, under the vice bodies, it does not dry. Even two months on, take it apart and it's wet in there. And corrosion is happening. Worse between dissimilar metals but also even between like metals. Under the vice bodies I've taken to bedding them in anti-seize, which seems to mitigate corrosion for a long time. Can't really do that with the vice jaws. Spraying with WD or CRC or whatever has a small effect, it does not penetrate where the corrosion is. I've found no solution other than take the vices apart so they can dry.

This is in a very low humidity environment, 35% is typical.

I'm not a coolant professional, but my gut is telling me that you have a PH problem.

peter.van.haren · Apr 10, 2020

I see so many with clean and dry machines (at least in the YouTube videos) but my lathe is always covered in oil, lots of it.. I do a wipe down with an oily rag nearly every day but must coat it with oil IMMEDIATELY after cleaning it up. I live in Thailand where daily outside ambient temperatures is 30C to 38C, with outdoor relative humidity approx. 80% on average, and use aircon when in my shop. So if I don't use rust prevention surface rust shows easily the next day.
For a quick application, I use a cheap aerosol oil which gets into the nooks and crannies, and attracts dust (unfortunately). As a novice, I don't know if this the "right" way, but it seems to work... if I don't forget to spray?
On the other hand, in my Canadian garage where the weather is much different, rust hardly forms after even months.

Djstorm100 · Apr 10, 2020

Bobw said:
I'm not a coolant professional, but my gut is telling me that you have a PH problem.

as in to high of a PH?

jatt · Apr 10, 2020

Tried a Lanolin based anti corrosion product, but it seems the rats around here have a fetish for it. So had to give that idea the arse.

Use a water based coolant on one machine and the largest bandsaw. Apart from a bit of staining under the vise, seems fine on the table if left for a bit. However do need to find something that stays on better on vertical surfaces (column etc..)

The lathe, just sewing machine oil for cutting fluid and the unpainted surfaces.

Presses, ISO46 in the oilers, which ends up coating the rest anyhow.

Will give the CRC3-32 a go.

None of my gear is in cabinets, so its canvas covers with a square of mesh sewn in the side. Found the mesh reduces the condensation factor under the cover.

What rust inhibitor areyou using for your machines?

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