It's alive! (1943 10ee)

focusrsh · Mar 30, 2020

After two years of work, my 1943 10EE actually runs! (AND it doesn't leak oil everywhere.)
It took about 15 gallons of kerosene mixed with parts cleaner to de-grease and de-crud the poor thing. And countless hours of scrubbing. I took apart everything, and I mean EVERYTHING. Every bearing except the head stock spindle was replaced, along with every seal and wiper.
I'm going to have to take another look at the carriage, though. The Bijur pump is clearly working but oil doesn't appear to be getting everywhere evenly. So, a few things left to do.
But it runs and all the controls work. Yipee!

rimcanyon · Mar 30, 2020

focusrsh said:
After two years of work, my 1943 10EE actually runs! (AND it doesn't leak oil everywhere.)
It took about 15 gallons of kerosene mixed with parts cleaner to de-grease and de-crud the poor thing. And countless hours of scrubbing. I took apart everything, and I mean EVERYTHING. Every bearing except the head stock spindle was replaced, along with every seal and wiper.
I'm going to have to take another look at the carriage, though. The Bijur pump is clearly working but oil doesn't appear to be getting everywhere evenly. So, a few things left to do.
But it runs and all the controls work. Yipee!
View attachment 283376

Congratulations! Nice looking machine. Did you replace the 4 bearings in the headstock below the spindle? I recently removed the apron oil pump on my round dial, and brazed the lever where it was worn, where it runs against the handwheel shaft cam. It had about ⅛" of wear at that point, and I think every little bit of lost motion affects the ability of the pump to deliver oil. Even with that, it does not over lube. I think the designers of the lube system knew what they were doing, and the amount of oil it delivers is just right. If the way wipes are kept up, the system works. On my machine, the front V-ways get the least amount of oil, but its enough.

dinotom · Mar 31, 2020

focusrsh said:
And countless hours of scrubbing. I took apart everything, and I mean EVERYTHING. Every bearing except the head stock spindle was replaced, along with every seal and wiper.

Congrats! If you want to do it right, you do the whole thing.

That is my intention as well, just finishing up the motors and known electrical issues. I have also stripped the paint from most everything and am in the process of sanding and prepping for paint. Then I can get to the hard stuff ((-;.

Crazymonkey · Mar 31, 2020

Looks good! Did you replace the flanged angular contacts in the quick change gearbox? If so, where did you source them from?

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Zap921 · Mar 31, 2020

Congrats!! Got to be a very special moment with many to come, best of luck with her.

rimcanyon · Mar 31, 2020

Crazymonkey said:
Looks good! Did you replace the flanged angular contacts in the quick change gearbox? If so, where did you source them from?

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When I rebuilt my 42 round dial gearbox, 25 yrs ago or so, the flanged bearings were not available except for exorbitant prices. My solution was to buy the standard bearing and cut the groove in it. I did it on a 10EE, but for good surface finish you might want to have it ground.

focusrsh · Apr 4, 2020

The only two bearings I didn't replace were the spindle left/right. You know, the super-expensive ones. I couldn't feel any crunchiness, and honestly, even if they are worn , the lathe is WAY more accurate than me.

focusrsh · Apr 4, 2020

Yesterday I removed the top of the carriage so I could see the Bijur pump and worked it by hand. After a few minutes, oil came out the pipe that connects to the top of the carriage, so I knew the pump was working. Reassembled it and started working the carriage back and forth by hand. Eventually I saw a dribble of oil out of some of the holes that lubricate the ways, so I'm confident the manifold and the Bijur valves are working. So, I'm declaring victory!

focusrsh · Apr 4, 2020

rimcanyon said:
When I rebuilt my 42 round dial gearbox, 25 yrs ago or so, the flanged bearings were not available except for exorbitant prices. My solution was to buy the standard bearing and cut the groove in it. I did it on a 10EE, but for good surface finish you might want to have it ground.

I also used standard bearings, but not having a lathe...chicken and egg!...I measured the depth and used Loctite to secure them in the correct position.

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It's alive! (1943 10ee)

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