Rod for suppressor to bore concentricity

ih784 · May 13, 2020

Hello everybody,

I’m hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. I’m in need of a simple piece or rod. I need the rod to be 19/64 or .296 in diameter. The biggest concern is that it needs to be as straight as possible. My question is what rod type am I looking for? O1? W1? I’m trying to prevent a baffle strike in a suppressor. A sort of no-go gauge as turning every barrel the suppressor may mount to may not be feasible. I’m sure someone has done something similar here and any advice is much appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

trevj · May 13, 2020

Y'know, if you can't figure that out on your own, should you be messin' with it at all?

ih784 · May 13, 2020

Thank you for your suggestion. Anyone who isn’t a tin bender and can own a semi automatic firearm have any experience with this?

D Nelson · May 13, 2020

It’s called a range rod made by PTG
Don

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ih784 · May 13, 2020

Thank you Mr. Don! I’ll check them out. I found some made by Gisselle. I was curious as to what it was ground out of. If I were to make my own and be with in a couple thousandths of a 75 dollar rod. Thank you again! I didn’t know PTG made them as well.

D Nelson · May 13, 2020

I think o-1 it is tapered and has a replaceable bushing to fit different size bores

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ih784 · May 13, 2020

Very cool. I learned something new. I have a ballistic advantage barrel that will eventually be suppressed. I can pull the bcg out and sight down the bore. I wanted something a little more reliable lol. It’s a 30 cal bullet going through a .390 hole. Everything should be concentric with the barrel. I just didn’t want to find out different the first time a round went down range.

trevj · May 13, 2020

ih784 said:
Thank you for your suggestion. Anyone who isn’t a tin bender and can own a semi automatic firearm have any experience with this?

LOL! I know how to sort out what I need without having to beg, at least.

steve-l · May 14, 2020

This is a usual issue with air rifles, not powder burners,as suppressors are legal. Not so with powder burners. That's first, so I assume you are talking about a 30 cal PCP air rifle. If so, you should use precision shafting as a starter then grind 3 inches of the barrel end to compensate for any pellet choking. Lastly, properly executed.020" is more than adequate pellet to baffle clearance.

ih784 · May 14, 2020

This is for a powder burner. I’ve read people have had strikes with higher end barrels. I’m waiting on a form 4 to come through now. That rod would be a quick way to tell if it will clear or not. If the threads are not concentric or parallel to the bore can have issues. Also not having a 90 degree shoulder.

ih784 · May 14, 2020

This is for a powder burner. I’ve read people have had strikes with higher end barrels. I’m waiting on a form 4 to come through now. That rod would be a quick way to tell if it will clear or not. If the threads are not concentric or parallel to the bore the can can have issues lol. Also not having a 90 degree shoulder will cause issues. Good ideas Don and Steve.

cstrickland · May 14, 2020

ih784 said:
This is for a powder burner. I’ve read people have had strikes with higher end barrels. I’m waiting on a form 4 to come through now. That rod would be a quick way to tell if it will clear or not. If the threads are not concentric or parallel to the bore can have issues. Also not having a 90 degree shoulder.

Really ? I would see this being an issue on lower end barrels but not the higher ones. If they are threading the barrel for a possible suppressor they should be doing it after they rifle it, and picking up off the bore, thus ensuring the threads are concentric to the bore.

ih784 · May 14, 2020

I completely agree. I read one problem with a noveske barrel baffle strike. The issues could also be caused by a bullet not stabilizing before it leaves the bore. Twist and velocity playing a factor obviously. Or a combination of a slightly off, slightly unstable bullet. Trying to eliminate one variable at a time. However, even a stabilized subsonic round does me no good a a barrel that is “off”.

Butch Lambert · May 14, 2020

I don't know how to say this in a nice way, but you are out of place with this. It would be cheaper and much better to let a qualified craftsman handle it.

ih784 · May 14, 2020

I understand. I’ll pay someone to put a rod down my barrel and check it for alignment. Smh. I’m not going to chuck up every single barrel the suppressor goes on and check the runout. If I’m out of place thinking a rod that goes down the barrel and through the suppressor and doesn’t touch the suppressor walls is good to go. Then I’m out of place. I just wanted a source for a straight piece of rod. Turns out PTG and Gisselle make them. I’m off to find a “qualified craftsman”

who can ensure every barrel won’t cause an issue.

pat_j0nes · May 14, 2020

Looking thru the back of the barrel with the can installed is the typical approach. Small misalignments can be seen with the naked eye.

--
Pat Jones
Firestone CO

Kurt Learning · May 14, 2020

Many of my projects are done with make shift tools.
My approach would be to dig in my pile of long drill rods. Most of which are purchased at auctions and garage sales.
Then I would chuck it in the lathe and reduce the diameter with a grinder attached to the tool post/apron.

We were on track to get legislation that would eliminate the restrictions for a silencer until the Las Vegas shooting.
Timing is everything.

Conceive it, believe it, achieve it.

wesg · May 14, 2020

McMaster-Carr. Drill rod, W-1, O-1, A-2, pick your poison. Or precision ground 4140 or 416 is available by the foot if you prefer.

garyphansen · May 15, 2020

A barrel should be treaded between centers on a lathe. That way the threads are always concentric to the bore.

trevj · May 15, 2020

wesg said:
McMaster-Carr. Drill rod, W-1, O-1, A-2, pick your poison. Or precision ground 4140 or 416 is available by the foot if you prefer.

Christ, you could make the damn thing from a crusty breadstick or dried cheese, as long as the fit is correct, and it stays straight long enough to use.

Impress your friend! Have one made out of Billet MilSpec Aircraft Grade genuine SAE Quality Titanium Alloy! With a genuwine Carbon Fiber core and Nitrous coating! LOL! Be the most elite wannabe on the range!

In short, anything that stays straight when made, will work fine.

Rod for suppressor to bore concentricity

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Stainless

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Plastic

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