Please help me find a flywheel coupling for this small diesel

dieselfuelonly · Jun 28, 2020

Not having much luck finding a flywheel coupling for this little Yanmar diesel I have. It's an Ingersoll-branded Yanmar engine, TK270M, out of a TriPac unit off a big truck. It was originally set up driving a belt pulley installed on the "B" holes of my poorly drawn diagram. I would like to turn a keyed shaft off this unit. Searching through what Hayes, Guardian, etc., have to offer I'm not seeing much along the lines of what I need. Was hoping to avoid having something custom machined to keep costs down on this little project. Any ideas of A - what standard the bolt holes on this flywheel conform to (if any?) and B - any ideas on a suitable coupling? The engine should be putting out <10HP at 1800 RPM and will be used to drive a generator head. Thanks for any help!

JS · Jun 28, 2020

Nothing comes to mind.

The "B" holes are the only ones worth using. It's a (6) hole flange coupling with a locating boss, put shrink fit on a shaft.

You could try [:Phoenix Casting and Machining | Phoenix Casting and Machining :]

Garwood · Jun 29, 2020

I have probably made a dozen similar parts.

Have a decent machinist make it for you.

Machinery_E · Jun 29, 2020

When I repowered a Woodmizer sawmill with a V1505 Kubota diesel, I got the the stubshaft from Woodmizer. It was part number 015866 and cost about $120. The paperwork with the part looked like it was made in Woodmizer's machine shop, so I'm thinking what you are looking for doesn't exist off the shelf. You might be able to get a stub shaft from Woodmizer for one of their smaller diesel mills like the LT15.

Bill D · Jun 29, 2020

I think any belt drive is going to overload the rear engine bearing. You should add an external bearing on the far side of the pulley to reduce side loads on the rear engine bearing.
Bil lD

Phil in Montana · Jun 29, 2020

Unless your engine was built to take a full hp belt drive you will need to add a bearing to the back of the engine to save the main engine bearing from failing...Phil

72bwhite · Jun 29, 2020

Phil in Montana said:
Unless your engine was built to take a full hp belt drive you will need to add a bearing to the back of the engine to save the main engine bearing from failing...Phil

It was originally set up driving a belt pulley installed on the "B" holes of my poorly drawn diagram. I would like to turn a keyed shaft off this

that would imply it might have been designed to take the load maybe unless of coarse
it had added bearings.

Garwood · Jun 29, 2020

In pretty plain english he stated he's not using a pulley, he wants to drive a shaft.

dieselfuelonly · Jun 29, 2020

Machinery_E said:
When I repowered a Woodmizer sawmill with a V1505 Kubota diesel, I got the the stubshaft from Woodmizer. It was part number 015866 and cost about $120. The paperwork with the part looked like it was made in Woodmizer's machine shop, so I'm thinking what you are looking for doesn't exist off the shelf. You might be able to get a stub shaft from Woodmizer for one of their smaller diesel mills like the LT15.

Thanks for the idea, I will look into that if Hayes can't come up with anything reasonable.

Got someone from Hayes still working on seeing if they can match a suitable flywheel coupling.

To clear up some confusion, the engine ORIGINALLY drove an alternator and an AC compressor off of a pulley mounted to the flywheel. I think it had something around 8400 hours on it when I took it off the truck and runs great. Rear main seal is even dry as can be. It was obviously designed with that side load from the pulley in mind.

What I want to do with it now is either find a stub shaft to attach to the flywheel , or, ideally, find a flywheel coupling that will directly accept the keyed shaft from a generator head. The generator head will be a double bearing unit and mounted in line with the output shaft on the flywheel.

Thanks for the responses and ideas.

russler · Jun 30, 2020

Firstly, you cannot rigidly connect flywheel/crank shaft to a generator, it just wont work.
If you use a coupling it will be long and the housing on the generator will be like wise. Say 4" on the flywheel and the same the other end,>8" that's making a long unit and rigidity/ alignment may become an issue.
You already have a pulley that suits the engine, why would't you just mount the generator next to the engine and use belts? I would think win win all round. it's compact, Blind Freddie could align the pulleys with a bent stick and did I say simple? I have a similar size gen set setup that way, must have 10-15 thousand hours on it and still the original belts.
just my 2 cents
Russell

Garwood · Jun 30, 2020

You will need some kind of misalignment coupling. Splines, fiber disc, etc.

PDW · Jul 1, 2020

Garwood said:
You will need some kind of misalignment coupling. Splines, fiber disc, etc.

Yeah, been down this road, I used a Fenner flex coupling. Can't remember the tech name ATM, sort of like a small car tyre or donut. Used taperlock bushings for ease of assembly/disassembly.

But I could & did make the stub shaft assembly to suit what I wanted. Didn't even consider trying to buy one, it's a really simple welding/machining job.

PDW

magneticanomaly · Jul 1, 2020

Your FW appears to have studs sticking out that may have had rubber donuts on them as part of a slightly flexible coupling.
If your generator has two of its own bearings, I'd make a "rag joint", that is, have made a flanged sleeve that fits your generator shaft, with two opposite bolt-holes in the flange on the same bolt-circle as an even-n umbered bolt-circle on your FW.. The BC is the diagonal of a square. Do a little trig to find the side of the square. Cut four or eight stout strips of old tire sidewall, long and wide enough to be punched at the ends with holes separated by the side-length of your square. With big, smooth washers and prevailing -torque nuts, connect the flanges with the rubber strips. Your generator and engine bearings will be safe from reasonable misalignment and flexing of their common frame.

Phil in Montana · Jul 1, 2020

I was in the gen set building for 50 years, machine a step in the flywheel to fit a c106 drive disc, tap 6 holes to bolt the disc on , machine a spool to bolt the gen to the housing of the engine, convert the gen to a rear bearing only and machine a hub to bolt the disc center to the gen shaft... that's how its done in the real world...a lot of machine work...or belt drive it...Phil

petersen · Jul 1, 2020

Back in '04 I was asked to replace a Dodge rubber-flex flywheel mount type of coupler that
drove a large refrigeration compressor behind a V-8 Caterpillar engine.

The rubber coupler was keyed and set screwed to the 3-1/4" input shaft and would not stay
secure and had badly worn the compressor shaft.

The customer had Woods Sure Flex couplers on electric driven compressors and liked them.
They were putting in a new pump and did not want the shaft damaged.

There was not enough space to build a flange and stub shaft that would let us replace the
flex element in a #12 Woods coupling without remounting either the engine or pump.

The flywheel had an un-used 130mm pilot bearing hole with plenty of mass around it,
in which I secured a RINGFEDER keyless locking device and a 3-7/16" shaft for the coupler.

It has been running around the clock ever since.

petersen

axaxi · Jul 8, 2020

Machinery_E said:
When I repowered a Woodmizer sawmill with a V1505 Kubota diesel, I got the the stubshaft from Woodmizer. It was part number 015866 and cost about $120. The paperwork with the part looked like it was made in Woodmizer's machine shop, so I'm thinking what you are looking for doesn't exist off the shelf. You might be able to get a stub shaft from Woodmizer for one of their smaller diesel mills like the LT15.

good idea thanks.

DDoug · Jul 8, 2020

axaxi said:
good idea thanks.

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