Skim the feet as Mark suggested so the feet are flat-bottom and true height to the top to allow holding them tight with hold-downs (or what) with little or no distortion, plus you can unmount the part and re-set it if needed. Good to mark where the feet are in place so the return is very close. If it wobbles from table top error you might shim under a foot.
Wheel selection is very important with an open-wheel the better choice. White aluminum oxide is likely the most common and then red and blue ceramic, brown wheels tend to run hotter. It is not uncommon to use a 24 or 36 wheel to take stock and then finish with a 36 or 46 grit. Full wheeling is common and that can generate enough heat to burn the part and heat-warp it so to make the job troublesome or scrap. The wheel head and the part have to be very solid so wheel grits can penetrate the surface. Tap your grinder head with a brass hammer to see it feels solid. Good to have a slide dresser set to the angle so you might go back and redress. The flats and angles will take a different amount of stock removal so know your finish targets, or blue into the finish sizes. Wet is often a must grinding such a large part. A pause at the ends, off the part might insure not burning the surface as a surface burn can bend a lathe bed and then it is a bugger to make it straight again. Yes, sometimes a cup-type wheel is used.
It is easy to get overconfident as you just touch the ends away from the low place, and when you begin to near or get the full surface you mess up because you are trying to go too fast.
If you are not good at trig you can draw the part at a large scale and measure the drawing to get .001 close to target.
*Good to hand feel the parked wheel to the part with checking your dial so you know where the first contact at both ends and low place (finish) will be on the dial-> write that on a note. Best to not talk to anyone or be bothered when doing a one-chance job.
Most often such as a lathe bed is a solid part but if you were grinding a long part that is not solid then mill jacks are good to just hand feel to the part under side.
I put a piece of tape on my dial to mark my place if I need to leave the job and come back.
Yes, a lot of simple stuff here that likely you already know.