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Belt Sander for removing welds?

Marankie

Plastic
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Location
Newbury Park, CA
Hello,

I produce a lot of products which are boxed and welded sheet metal. This usually leaves the majority of the corners welded which I cannot bend in a brake. As I go into production, I need a more efficient method of removing all of the excess meld material other than hand held grinders and flap wheels.

I saw an episode of "How Its Made" featuring the production of metal caskets. They have a similar issue and solution using a large belt sander, which appears to be a custom machine:

How Its Made - Metal Caskets - YouTube (1:52 into the video)

I have also seen larger belt sanders which seem to be for woodworking but would seem useful if they offered abrasive belts for steel.

WMH TOOL GROUP/JET OES-80CS OSCLLTNG EDGE SNDR - Belt/Disc Sanders - 42W971|OES-80CS - Grainger Industrial Supply

Any help would be most appreciated!

Thank you,

Greg
 
Belts are not a issue for the wood machines, any good abrasive supplier can supply pretty much any grit in any size you want, Custom sizes are really not any more expensive than stock sizes so long as you buy a dozen or so a time in the larger sizes.

Above all though i would look at your welding process, Whilst there's always a need to blend welds, if you don't add the excess then you don't have to remove it! Sounds obvious, but way to often you see people grinding away for hours when a faster hotter pass with possibly a larger welder would just need a quick light clean up. Equally good joint design is also key to reducing clean up times.
 
What material, and how big of boxes do you make? What process do you weld them with? A TIG fusion weld needs almost no clean up. Do you want a grained or smooth look or does it matter? What is the weld joint? Pics?
Rob
 
Thanks for the input guys!

I'm using 14ga mild, parts are about 2'x2' roughly (see attached pics), Miller 210 hard wire, smooth finished look.

I'm considering converting an older CNC plasma table I have to run straight line mig welds which would give me the consistency and of course automation for better efficiency.

IMG_2395.jpgIMG_2481.jpgIMG_2480.jpgIMG_2473.jpgIMG_2471.jpg
 
Can you not fold most of that out of one sheet, bend it between holes 3 and 4, take a triangle notch out of the fore and aft legs, and do one weld in the front corner and one (horizontal) at the notch? It'll take a little more material, but much less grinding. If you put on your origami hat, you might be able to fold the whole thing. Unless, of course, there are inside reinforcements I don't see, in which case I'll shut the hell up...

Chip
 
You can certainly try a stroke sander- but my guess is you will eat a lot of belts. Which are not cheap.
Generally, for sanding sheet metal, if its flat, people use Timesavers style belt sanders. But they are very expensive machines- think 20k to 80k.

Deburring | Timesavers - World's Largest Manufacturer of Widebelt Abrasive machines

I think you can get really fast with a 4 1/2" grinder and a flap disc- I know I am- and that it is generally not worth buying a really expensive machine until volume means it runs 8 hours a day, hopefully 16.
 
Have you considered a dynafile? I use one daily and they are really versatile. Tons of belt selections and head shapes to choose from.

Might be to small for you still, but at about $500 new, it's a relatively cheap experiment in comparison to $20,000 machines...

Cheers
Tom
 
i find the grinding process is dirty if anything,a belt sander may contain the dirt a little better.
something has to be said about quality flapwheels,as some arent worth the plasic they are packed in.
abrasive grinding wheels can be quick but too agressive.
walter has about the best selection and durability i have ever seen,never disappointed with their performance.
 
For something like that I would use a 9" grinder with a rubber backed sanding disk- 80 grit. If there are any bad high spots on the weld take it down first with the 4 1/2 or 5" grinder. Hold the 9" as flat as possible to the metal. I have 4 or 5
9" grinders and use them alot for this type of thing. The larger the surface of your grinder disk the more likely the metal will stay flat IF you do it right.
A place I used to work had a stroke sander for graining sheetmetal. You could make one easy enough. All it was was a flat wood table the sheet sat on with the belt (4" maybe 25'-30' long) above it by 6" or so. The guy running it had a plastic paddle- kind of looked like a concrete finishing trowel- that he would use to push the inside of the belt down onto the metal. This was for stainless panels for machine tools, the grainer was used to blend in welds were the panels were welded so the grain was consistant on the whole panel.
Nice looking parts by the way.
Rob
 
Indeed, Timesavers are known to be very expensive machines. But did you know that there are many cheaper brands that deliver the same quality? They may look a little less sexy but work just as well or even better! Furthermore, I think you will actually use up a lot of belts at too high a cost. I think you'll really be better off with a compact disc arm grinder with round sanding discs.

Deburring | VG Machines - Disc Arm Grinder

I hope I was able to help you further with this. Good luck with the process! :D
 
Even though this is sort of spam, on a 7 year old thread, that Belgian floating disc sander is a really cool machine. I have never seen anything like it, and I can see how for many things I have had to sand, it would be a great solution. Bet they are spendy, though.
 
Oops sorry I am new here on this forum. I hadn't noticed that this topic is already 7 years old... My bad! I'm just interested in deburring and sanding machines and I hope to learn a lot about mechanics here :)
 
Thanks for the input guys!

I'm using 14ga mild, parts are about 2'x2' roughly (see attached pics), Miller 210 hard wire, smooth finished look.

I'm considering converting an older CNC plasma table I have to run straight line mig welds which would give me the consistency and of course automation for better efficiency.

View attachment 91641View attachment 91642View attachment 91643View attachment 91644View attachment 91645

first off, why are you making the flat part from multiple pieces? just plasma cut one part and have it bent. cheaper,easier and faster even if you outsource it in batches. they can usually cut and buy material cheaper then you can.

nvm its an aold thread....
 








 
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