brown and sharpe 510 parts?
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  1. #1
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    Default brown and sharpe 510 surface grinder roller source?

    Hi,

    Just picked up a Browne and Sharpe 510 surface grinder... I got it for a good price so took the risk that I couldn't really inspect it thoroughly other than to run the spindle and tell it was quiet.

    Well, the rollers aren't in good shape... the front flat way is missing a pair, the rear had the rollers turned the wrong direction and the roller cage missing (helpfully with a dowel separating the rollers).

    So... the rear rollers are shot, with flats worn on them. I called Bourn and Koch, they said it would be about $1100 for the rollers + v-cage.

    Anyone have a good source for parts other than B&K? I know these are precision ground and hardened, so I wouldn't expect them to be cheap.

    Thanks,
    Phil


    img_1493.jpg
    Last edited by Brandenberger; 05-14-2018 at 07:38 PM.

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    I also just acquire a 510 grinder. The stroke cable on mine is broken. Do you have a manual for yours or did you just dig in a start disassembling yours?

  3. #3
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    Maybe Dunbar will have the proper rollers.

    -Doozer

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    Guys don't overthink this item, the rollers transfer oil to the ways. They have lasted 30+ years in industrial service, how many hours a year will it be used now.

    The Myford CG I have had a flat roller, a 20 minute job to make a new one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by snowmanalan View Post
    I also just acquire a 510 grinder. The stroke cable on mine is broken. Do you have a manual for yours or did you just dig in a start disassembling yours?

    I got the manual (such as it is) from the guy on ebay selling reprints. I talked to Bourn and Koch, they don't have much more than that either. They are very willing to talk about the machines thought, and sell parts (at a price).

    I would think the stroke cable is pretty easy to replicate. If you want, I can measure mine (length, width, and thickness of the metal). The ends are simply folded over and a hole drilled into it to fit into the "table drum band holder" on each end.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Toms Wheels View Post
    Guys don't overthink this item, the rollers transfer oil to the ways. They have lasted 30+ years in industrial service, how many hours a year will it be used now.

    The Myford CG I have had a flat roller, a 20 minute job to make a new one.
    Hi,
    These are roller-way machines... so they're not just transferring oil, they're supporting the table.

    But yes I agree about making them... I bought a few feet of turned/ground/polished rod of the exact diameter and will just turn the ends (45-degree chamfer) to exact length. They won't be hardened as much as the originals, but shouldn't matter with the use this machine will see.

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    Default Removing B&S 510 way bed?

    Hi,

    I'm getting my B&S 510 surface grinder running properly again. The surface finish is pretty decent, but the lubrication system is plugged so I'm pulling it apart to clean up the innards...

    I've separated the upright from the base, and the base casting from the steel fabricated base.

    There's about 60 years of sludge in the casting base, and I'm tempted to pull off the way base (which is bolted to the main base casting with 3 bolts from below).

    Pictures attached.

    1) should I? Or do I risk screwing up the probably great registration between the "front/back" ways versus the table ways? It looks like the mating between the table base ways and the main base is two machined surfaces in direct contact... which have been together since 1967 no doubt!

    2) I found the front/back ways have two holes for lubrication but only the front is fed... and in fact the manifold doesn't even have another position to feed the rear one.

    Thanks,
    Phil
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails grinder-bed-2.jpg   grinder-bed-1.jpg   grinder-bed-3.jpg  

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    When I had my 510 apart I separated everything. If I remember correctly I think the table is sitting on 3 points.
    Mine also had the same 2 lube holes but only one line coming from the manifold as yours.
    So maybe they figured 2 weren't needed.

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    Phil, don't know how I missed the photo of the rollers. For sure support rollers not lube rollers. Those sideways rollers must have gouged that rear way something awful.
    You could check with Bearing distributors about buying a dozen matched rollers. and make the brass cages yourself.

    My SG needed all the galleys cleaned out, full with crud, Brake Cleaner and air nozzle did the job.

    Where in NJ are you?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Toms Wheels View Post
    Phil, don't know how I missed the photo of the rollers. For sure support rollers not lube rollers. Those sideways rollers must have gouged that rear way something awful.
    You could check with Bearing distributors about buying a dozen matched rollers. and make the brass cages yourself.

    My SG needed all the galleys cleaned out, full with crud, Brake Cleaner and air nozzle did the job.

    Where in NJ are you?
    It’s interesting, the sideways bearings gouged a .004” channel, however just right down the center of each flat side of the v-ways on the table. Which makes sense because a cylinder contacts a 90degree corner in only two spots. So it seems like there’s plenty of meat left on the v-way to support bearings though they will wear unevenly if they wear at all.

    The bed v-way isn’t gouged, the bearings must have slid on the top.

    I already made a bearing cage from phenolic sheet, that works nicely.

    So, surface quality is pretty good with enough passes. I’m hoping replacing the bearings will improve it more (in a single .0005” pass I get facets which seem to mirror the look of the facets on the rollers).

    I’m in Montclair NJ... where are you?

    Phil

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    I am in Toms River area, by the Shore.

  13. #12
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    Default B&S 510 wheel guard

    My 510 has what seems to be a somewhat odd guard
    Arrangement?

    The guard is cast iron, and covers only 90degrees of
    The wheel from 9-o’clock to 12-o’clock.

    I’ve looked in the parts manual and the castings don’t seem to
    Be similar to any guard shown there (the standard on or
    The over-wheel dresser or anything else).

    Anyone recognize this one?

    Pictures show the guard’s rear piece attached to the casting behind,
    And then several angles with the rear piece removed, showing
    The casting that clamps to the spindle cartridge.

    I’d like to have a more normal 9-o’clock to 3 o’clock guard
    Ultimately, if I can’t find one i’ll Fabricate one.

    Thanks,
    Phil
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails b02f75ef-217d-4b4c-b28a-4514b49481b3.jpg   f928c205-0194-44b2-8d36-c60b59cc6e23.jpg   8495d932-3e98-4543-9e4b-a84e77b23ad9.jpg   bebb93f4-40f6-40bb-ae54-eed9ae7a35a4.jpg  


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