Brown and Sharpe 510 questions - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Cant tell much from here...at a certain point the better finish begins to look worse.. that because the better finish reflects more light. Was that grind the 46 wheel or the 60? was it a wet grind.

    Tenth indicator on chuck is a good test along with setting your dead flat something on the chuck to see it dead flat.
    Ran one grinder years ago that liked a lead and follow bevel on the wheel for best surface finish... I jut used a broken diamond wheel piece to hand bevel the front and back edge of the wheel,


    QT: [I can see the faces of these wheels are typically .050" or so out of perfectly tangent to the spindle axis.]
    Guess I don't understand what you are saying there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    Cant tell much from here...at a certain point the better finish begins to look worse.. that because the better finish reflects more light. Was that grind the 46 wheel or the 60? was it a wet grind.

    Tenth indicator on chuck is a good test along with setting your dead flat something on the chuck to see it dead flat.
    Ran one grinder years ago that liked a lead and follow bevel on the wheel for best surface finish... I jut used a broken diamond wheel piece to hand bevel the front and back edge of the wheel,


    QT: [I can see the faces of these wheels are typically .050" or so out of perfectly tangent to the spindle axis.]
    Guess I don't understand what you are saying there.
    By this I mean the front and back face of the wheel wobbles by maybe .050". I trued the faces with a diamond and the vibration is significantly reduced. I also beveled the wheel corners very slightly and that reduced the scratches in the finish.

    The wheel I'm using is a 46J which seems ok. I'm flooding the top of the chuck with wd40 which seems to work reasonably well as a coolant / dust clumper.

    I was satisfied enough now that I ground the chuck, which had lots of rust on the surface. Came out well enough. It's a fine pole chuck, lots of filler metal which loads up the wheel.

    Thanks,
    Phil

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    Grab the wheel and feel if there is any loose wiggle..If not take off the wheel and indicate the empty mount face....That face should run-out less than .001.

    Much error their will cause problem with your grind even with the wheel face and back dressed. If run out is found or not...you might also pull the wheel mount and run indicator on the spindle nose taper..That should run-out less than .001.

    Come back with your findings.and we will decide what to do

    I would have said resolve problems before grinding the chuck but done is done

    XXX WD 40 is not a good coolant IMHO *and it is a fire hazard

    Soapy water much better coolant..

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    Grab the wheel and feel if there is any loose wiggle..If not pull the wheel and indicate the empty mount face....That face should run less that .001.

    Much error their will cause problem with your grind. If run out is found you might also pull the wheel mount ans run indicator on the spindle nose taper..That should run closer than .001.

    Come back with your findings.

    I would have said resolve problems before grinding the chuck but done is done

    WD 40 is not a good coolant IMHO
    An empty wheel hub face runs out .0001" - .0002".

    With the wheel on, I can't feel any loose wiggle. If I hold a parallel across the wheel face, and try to wiggle the wheel and indicate that, I get .0005" movement in and out holding the wheel to avoid rotation. (See picture for what I mean here).

    And the taper itself I get .0002" runout.

    I'll play with other coolant options, right now I'm not setup for mist or flood, but can apply other options easily enough.

    -Phil
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_1708.jpg  

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    .0001 and .0002?Good Then where can [front and back face of the wheel wobbles by maybe .050".] come from??
    *that does not make any sense...
    Are the blottes there on both sides of wheel?..are they water logged and swelled up?..What,, Perhaps toss that wheel and try a brand new wheel.
    Is there a bug or nock in the wheel hub?

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    I suspect that the issue here is mostly in wording. I suspect that Brandenberger, with "wobbles", meant that that he had to shave ~0.050" on the sides in order to get it uniform.

    Paolo

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paolo_MD View Post
    I suspect that the issue here is mostly in wording. I suspect that Brandenberger, with "wobbles", meant that that he had to shave ~0.050" on the sides in order to get it uniform.

    Paolo
    Yes, exactly, Before applying the diamond to the face, while the wheel was running concentric, the front and back face of the wheel were up to .050" out at the edge of the wheel...

    After truing with a stone, it's a lot better.

    And applying pressure to the wheel as I've said above doesn't make it move much at all.

    The blotters are new and good, not wet.

    I think my next step here is to turn a balancing arbor and check out the wheel balance.

    -Phil

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    .050 wobble seemed a lot for a new wheel.
    Front and back wheel corner bump can also be with a carbide tool bit to just even up the edge to a constant form. keeping the bump small allows for going back to a sharp corner not using much wheel.

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    With all the water pumps one can buy a simple coolant system is easy.

    eBay - Page Not Found

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    Made a balancing arbor, tested and balanced a wheel with it. This was a Norton 46J wheel, and it was quite unbalanced. Drilled shallow holes on both sides to balance.

    Ring tested off the hub after drilling, then mounted and ran it (slowly first, since the machine has a VFD, then up to speed when it seemed fine). Then re-dressed of course.

    image1-3-.jpgimage2-1-.jpgimage1-2-.jpg

    Unfortunately, while the wheel runs more smoothly (less vibration), it doesn't significantly improve the surface finish.

    I tried locking the table in one spot, then cross-feeding, lowering perhaps .0002" per pass. This did give a smoother surface finish.

    -Phil

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    46 is not the mirror finish wheel and it is difficult to tell surface finish by eyeball. There used to be some sample surface finish hand test samples one would just strike with a pen or a scriber to feel finish, don't know if they are still to be found.

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    Hi,

    Maybe i misunderstand, but you shouldnt remove the wheel after balancing.
    Then the balance is gone again.

    Peter


    Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk

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  14. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plusminus View Post
    Hi,

    Maybe i misunderstand, but you shouldnt remove the wheel after balancing.
    Then the balance is gone again.

    Peter


    Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
    Hi,

    Yes, you’re right of course. In fact I drilled some holes, got it balanced, then removed from the hub, ring tested, put back on the hub, and re-checked the balance (And with a bit of loosen/shift hub within wheel, tighten).

    Phil


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