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Brown & Sharpe 818 Micromaster series II questions

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yung_grasshopper

Plastic
Joined
Aug 22, 2020
I recently purchased a Brown & Sharpe Micromaster 818 Series II with auto feed and I wanted to replace the oil and filters. I looked at the Operators Manual from 1977 but it doesnt match the machine that I have. My filters are in the rear next to the door that has the oil requirements on it.

Where can I find a manual that will tell me what filters I need? Does it need a high pressure filter? How do I clean out the dirty oil and clean the machine? Are there any checks that I need to do before I start the machine after I have cleaned the machine and filled it with oil?
 
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You can disconnect a hose from the output side of the pump and pump all the oil out that way. After all the oil is out, use paper towel or whatever to clean any gunge out of the sump. Clean or change the filters and then add new oil. You can call Bourne & Koch (they own B&S name now) to get a new filter but they are probably on the ridiculous side of expensive. Do a search here at PM and you might find some other places to get the filter. IIRC, one of the filters is just a fine mesh metal screen, that one can just be cleaned. The other I think is filter paper.

The pressure relief for the high side of the pump circuit is normally only set for 120 psi. Low side should be about 6 psi. Check that those pressures are correct. It would also be a real good idea to check all the way lube lines and metering valves. I just got one of these grinders several months ago too and some of mine were closed up solid with gunk.
 
how do i know which ones are the lube lines and meter valves. i have no experience with this type of surface grinder. My old one wasnt ran on hydraulic fluid.
 
The metering valves are found in the junctions under the saddle. You'll need to pull up the sliding shields under the spindle and between the saddle and table to get to them. The lube lines come out of the metering valves. Check the lube lines all the way out to their exit points if possible. That means the table should come off and the saddle too so you can blow through the lines to make certain they're clear.

20200822_190820.jpg
 
I plan on calling Bourn & Koch Monday looking for the manual for this machine. I will ask though, do the filters look correct on this? my upper filter doesnt have plumbing coming out of it.

20200822_131940.jpgResized_20200822_131954.jpgreceived_604370476902102.jpg20200822_131906.jpg
 
does it matter which part of the reservoir? there is a muzzled intake under the upper filter.... or do i need to plumb it to the front reservoir?
 
Nope. All parts are connected. There are several return paths for the oil, they each go to a different part of the reservoir. At least some of the bypass flow goes to the middle through a bleed pipe or pipes, return oil from the ways goes back through the steel mesh filter in the rear. The return from the table handwheel and crossfeed disengagement cylinders drops down in the front. The pump flow volume is pretty decent, so the oil is constantly circulating through the whole reservoir and system. Keeps all parts of the reservoir mixed up pretty well.
 
We have an 824 at work and the one filter inside the canister looks like a filter from a fuel oil tank. (layers of felt type material)
We bought a box full about 20 years ago and I doubt I can find the source now, will look tuesday.

Dave
 
eKretz said:
Nope. All parts are connected. There are several return paths for the oil, they each go to a different part of the reservoir. At least some of the bypass flow goes to the middle through a bleed pipe or pipes, return oil from the ways goes back through the steel mesh filter in the rear. The return from the table handwheel and crossfeed disengagement cylinders drops down in the front. The pump flow volume is pretty decent, so the oil is constantly circulating through the whole reservoir and system. Keeps all parts of the reservoir mixed up pretty well.
Click to expand...

So, i was able to find the meter valves. and i will clean them this evening. My next question is, on the backside of the table above the slide that gets you to the meter vales there are 5 screws, 3 in the middle and 1 on each end. I am having a hell of a time getting the two on the end out. How do i remove them without doing damage to the machine. I guess i should ask, is that how i remove the table so i can clean it before i put new oil in?
 
To remove the table all you need to do is remove the castellated nut on the piston rod under the right side of the table and then push the rod in so it's clear of the table, then loosen the clamps that are holding the table traverse belt so the ends aren't attached anymore. Other than that nut on the end of the rod and the belt the only thing holding the table on is gravity. I used a couple eyebolts screwed down tight into t-nuts in the table slot to lift mine off with a hoist, but two fairly strong guys can probably lift it off by hand.

If you plan to remove the saddle also you've got a lot more complicated job, and the cross feed handle and front cover need to come off. You'll need to pull the splined cross feed shaft that goes through the hypoid gear for head elevation as well as remove the cross feed cylinder at the rear of the machine and disconnect the lube lines before the saddle can be lifted off.

Edit: there is also a hydraulic line going to the cross feed nut you'll need to remove if you've got power cross feed.
 
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eKretz said:
To remove the table all you need to do is remove the castellated nut on the piston rod under the right side of the table and then push the rod in so it's clear of the table, then loosen the clamps that are holding the table traverse belt so the ends aren't attached anymore. Other than that nut on the end of the rod and the belt the only thing holding the table on is gravity. I used a couple eyebolts screwed down tight into t-nuts in the table slot to lift mine off with a hoist, but two fairly strong guys can probably lift it off by hand.

If you plan to remove the saddle also you've got a lot more complicated job, and the cross feed handle and front cover need to come off. You'll need to pull the splined cross feed shaft that goes through the hypoid gear for head elevation as well as remove the cross feed cylinder at the rear of the machine and disconnect the lube lines before the saddle can be lifted off.

Edit: there is also a hydraulic line going to the cross feed nut you'll need to remove if you've got power cross feed.
Click to expand...

So I got to the meter valve and went to clean them and broke 3 of the lines right past the compression fitting. Where can I get new fittings?
 
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