CBN wheel truing
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  1. #1
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    Default CBN wheel truing

    Toolmaker here, we are trying a new method of squaring blocks on the grinder, basically the fixture we built is an indexer. I have bought a couple CBN wheels for this, thinking the longer wheel life is going to be a great benefit. The only issue is getting the wheel trued up. I can quite easily true them by slowing the spindle rpm down, and using our brake truing device, or a truing stick I got from Dia Tru. We only have one grinder with a vfd on it, and I need to be able to use these on any grinder. We have all mitsui grinders, 6x12, on any other grinder, my wheel on the brake truing device glazes up and then it's worthless. My truing stick does nothing at higher rpm. If I can not come up with a way of truing these up, I may have to look at retrofitting vfds on more grinders.



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  2. #2
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    Once I true a wheel it never leaves the wheel mounting HUB until it is worn out. Keep spindle tapers and hub tapers CLEAN when moving from machine to storage or other machine. You are using quality machines; you should be able to swap with no problems.

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  4. #3
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    I too try to never remove a wheel from the hub once true. Doing so is expensive in time and lost wheel.
    Sticks will not true these type wheels wheel, they are used to open up the bond and should melt away before removing any stock from the wheel.
    Sticking and truing are different animals.

    Your brake controlled device should work, if not the dressing wheel is either too coarse in grit or too hard.
    I use two basic and very different "stones" and a few special ones and prefer a motorized unit but use brake style also.
    Glazing means you have the wrong dressing wheel. Often a grit size mismatch problem but sometimes a hardness.

    Generally it should be done dry which means a shop vac or other dust collection unit as this is a very dirty operation that makes a dust cloud you don't want.
    Wet truing is "cleaner" but way more sensitive to grade and composition of the stone and fussy.

    Make sure the centrifugal brakes actually work in your device, the shoes and housing wear out or bind allowing free spin.
    You should not need a VFD.
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by CarbideBob View Post
    I too try to never remove a wheel from the hub once true. Doing so is expensive in time and lost wheel.
    Sticks will not true these type wheels wheel, they are used to open up the bond and should melt away before removing any stock from the wheel.
    Sticking and truing are different animals.

    Your brake controlled device should work, if not the dressing wheel is either too coarse in grit or too hard.
    I use two basic and very different "stones" and a few special ones and prefer a motorized unit but use brake style also.
    Glazing means you have the wrong dressing wheel. Often a grit size mismatch problem but sometimes a hardness.

    Generally it should be done dry which means a shop vac or other dust collection unit as this is a very dirty operation that makes a dust cloud you don't want.
    Wet truing is "cleaner" but way more sensitive to grade and composition of the stone and fussy.

    Make sure the centrifugal brakes actually work in your device, the shoes and housing wear out or bind allowing free spin.
    You should not need a VFD.
    Bob
    Bob,
    I am not using an aluminum oxide stick, there are truing sticks you can buy. I think they are just a moly steel rod. I use the aluminum oxide to push, or remove some bond, and the truing stick then removes the high spots of the CBN. I have dedicated hubs for each wheel. I trued them within .0005 using an indicator, then tightened the hubs really good, thinking this would eliminate slipping on the hub as the wheel starts. I am using an unbranded brake truer, maybe it's no good, although the housing around the pads gets quite warm when I use it. The wheels are 150 grit, does the same hold true for truing wheels as dressing sticks? Same grit to 1-2 finer?

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