Coolant setup for grinding - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Coolant can go rancid and become stinky so good to have a way to clean tank once in a while.
    Wheel dust and perhaps some coolants may not be safe to breathe..
    My lungs seem Ok after a lot of grinding but I have begun to wear a mask with some/most grinding nowadays.
    I grind wet and dry..
    For dry grinding a catch box can direct dust and coolant over spray down and into a bucket..that is much better than the stop shield found on most SGs

  2. #22
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    've just added a coolant system to my Grinder (J&S 540) after about 13 yrs of dry grinding. I have a large job coming up and thought I should get around to it after all this time.

    Surprisingly far less messy in use than I thought it would be!

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ballen View Post
    Hi Peter,

    ... I have been thinking about adding one of these household water filters, but after the pump, just before the nozzle which sprays coolant onto the part and the wheel...
    Bruce,
    My understanding is that the filtering is done mainly to protect the pump from premature wear. The ill effect of fine abrasive and metal particles (the larger ones would have been trapped in the tank) on the grinding job is likely negligible.

    But I could be wrong.

    Paolo

  4. #24
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    I use the 4 inch dia. 20 inch long filter housing with pleated filters.
    The housing are like 60-80 bucks, the cartridges 30-50 depending on type.
    We used to run two in a row, a 20 mic followed by a 5 micron.
    That was a waste, the 20 or even 50 turns into a 5 very quickly in my use.(Carbide grinding with some HSS).
    The larger cartridge and the pleated version gives you so much longer life.
    Be aware that when you get down below 5 you will filter out some of the additives in the coolant that you may want to stick around.
    My filters are after the pump so no protection on that end. Just a strainer on the inlet which does need to be cleaned with a wire brush once in a while.
    Reducing the "fines" pumped back in does make a difference both in wheel life and finish.
    Often in steel with light flow rates you can do a lot of this with baffles in the coolant tank. One can also place a handful of magnets, in the tray near the exit and in the tank.

    The real problem is keeping this water and spray from the wheel inside the machine table area and going down the drain.
    Due to what we run I have rather high flow rates. When grinding say a steel plate we can throttle down the Loc-line valves a bunch.
    Wet grinding and dry grinding need different wheels. Be prepared for different action and/or a different dress.
    Bob

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  6. #25
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    If your mostly grinding steel, which if memory serves you are, buy a second one of those filters, and simply gaffa tape some neodymium magnets to the outside, it will catch about 90% of the swarf and save the filters big time.

    Filter wise, there pretty cheap for 10" housings, absolutely buy the coarsest you can find too! Go careful coolant wise too because some of the filters will naturally pull and hold onto the oil in some coolants. Its the same stuff they use in the oil only absorbent spill mats.

    I don't use the J&S much, but there's a good half - full bucket full of swaf in there every time i do get around to cleaning the dust collector for it out though, pretty sure some of the things i grind i could fill a 10" filter housing in a couple of hours too.

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by adama View Post
    ......

    I don't use the J&S much, but there's a good half - full bucket full of swaf in there every time i do get around to cleaning the dust collector for it out though, pretty sure some of the things i grind i could fill a 10" filter housing in a couple of hours too.
    Puzzled here.
    Hopefully if wet grinding you have a coolant tank or barrel with at least one baffle and most of the swarf ends up in the tank.
    I need to clean my tanks now, each is about 12 inches deep with carbide sludge. (fun for the new guy,... wear clothes you don't care about)
    Bob

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  9. #27
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    ^ nope im a totally dry shop, no flood on anything and on the grinder its all dry and just got a extractor. I will about once every couple of months take about 20 though off some blades almost the full size of the J&S 540's travels, my extractor is a Torit one, so its a bunch of bag filters above a tray, everything kinda collects in the tray and its surprising how much ends up in there.

  10. #28
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    Default Note for Grinding Lubrication

    I'd make sure to start out with a concentration under 5% if you're using a water-miscible product. With grinding, it is often possible to have TOO MUCH lubrication in which the wheel doesn't make enough contact with the work piece.

    Frankly, I'd choose a cheap synthetic and run at 3%

  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by adama View Post
    ^ nope im a totally dry shop, no flood on anything and on the grinder its all dry and just got a extractor. I will about once every couple of months take about 20 though off some blades almost the full size of the J&S 540's travels, my extractor is a Torit one, so its a bunch of bag filters above a tray, everything kinda collects in the tray and its surprising how much ends up in there.
    At my first real job coolant was used on Blachards and for diamond wheels.. surface grinder work in steel was dry..guess that was the owners wishes. My friend Don worked at an all dry surface grinder shop..
    I still do one-ups and few ups SG work and flat knives to 32" dry. I use coolant on circular Knives


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