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Cylindrical grinder mag chuck regrind and worn out universal grinder!

  • Thread starter Luke.kerbey
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Luke.kerbey

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Morning from the uk!

Hopefully an easy question. I’ve got 24 round cores and cavities that I need to grind and fit next week on an worn out jones and shipman.

The round mag chuck is in dire need of grinding over. The only way I can see is when the chuck is removed there is 3 bolts that attach a threaded arbor to the chuck body, should I just remove the Arbor and grind over the round chuck on the surface grinder?


Also, the headstock it self is worn and has end play, does anyone have an tips and skills as to how to limit the out of roundness of my parts? (Fixing the headstock bearings isn’t an option)
 
Well if its worn out it most likely has done a reasonable amount of work and whoever owns it in that time would have been paid for the work, so you will get what you get with a machine that needs fixing.

Spend the money to fix the machine or buy a new machine is the best way to get good parts.
You should know this, whoever owns the machine should know this.
or look for a job in a new place....
 
Well if its worn out it most likely has done a reasonable amount of work and whoever owns it in that time would have been paid for the work, so you will get what you get with a machine that needs fixing.



Spend the money to fix the machine or buy a new machine is the best way to get good parts.
You should know this, whoever owns the machine should know this.
or look for a job in a new place....

I do know this, unfortunately we all don’t work in places where the toolroom gets prime investment. They save that for the moulding machines.

Anyone can take a brand new machine tool and grind to a tenth but it takes a great toolmaker to pick up a worn out grinder and grind to a tenth. Not saying I can do that, but I have my moments!
 
If possible, the chuck should be ground in the same machine where it will be used…If you mapped the indicated error of the worn out mounting location head stock then set the part (chuck) on the surface grinder shimmed to be the same chuck you would be very lucky to make it any better than is may be now.

I once made a draw bar spindle bearing end play adjustment by adding a bearing shaft like a to a draw bar with the draw bar shaft OD threaded also on the head stock back end.so a locking collar net could be a fixed. Then mounted a sealed bearing there at the machine rear that made contact on the rear of the machine with a heavy spring to allow some error (wobble) but hold spindle shaft tight to the machine spindle front bearing. Able to contact this rear added bearing to the existing rear bearing would/should be square enough to not need the spring device and just be solid.
 
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If it is a universal machine you can swivel the headstock to 90 degrees and then grind the chuck in place. That is what I did on my 1310 ,IIRC you can tighten the bearings up using the locknuts on the backend of the workhead spindle.
 
Fixing the headstock bearings isn’t an option

Explain to the owner that even though you are one of the great toolmakers, there is no magic available at the moment. Either fix or make junk parts

Here is one past SEVENTY that still thinks its a regular grinder - probably because its owned by another great toolmaker:D

Those drip fed plain bearings run WARM like they are supposed to
 

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Explain to the owner that even though you are one of the great toolmakers, there is no magic available at the moment. Either fix or make junk parts

Here is one past SEVENTY that still thinks its a regular grinder - probably because its owned by another great toolmaker:D

Those drip fed plain bearings run WARM like they are supposed to

Yes the drip feed still works and that’s reassuring the head gets rather warmer then I thought it should
 








 
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