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Dressing a diamond wheel

RJT

Titanium
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Location
greensboro,northcarolina
I have a small area to grind on a diameter next to a shoulder on some CPM15V and the edge of my diamond wheel has to much taper for me to hold the tolerance. I tried grinding a piece of carbide hoping to remove the taper. but it doesn't seem to be helping. Any way to dress a diamond wheel? I have a brake controlled truing device we have only uesed for CBN. Will that work?
 
A brake controlled truing device should work just fine, but different abrasives are recommended for diamond than cbn. For one face of one wheel the same abrasive will likely work fine.

I have ground several hundred pounds of CPM-10V using cbn, wet. Never had to use that new-fangled CPM-15V stuff, but think cbn would still be the wheel of choice.
 
Use cbn if you have it. Diamond will literally dissolve into the steel workpiece blunting the cutting edges of the diamonds. Results are high cutting forces, poor wheel geometry, high heat (graphitizing the diamond). You can actually true a diamond wheel on cold roll although a brake controlled or motorized dresser fitted with an aluminum oxide or silicon carbide stone is preferred. Don't forget to open or condition the wheel after truing with an abrasive stick so it grinds freely.
 
I've never used diamond on steel before, but with such a high hardness (62-64 R/C) thought it would be the better choice. Also my diamond wheel has a sharper corner. Is diamond never recommended on steel?
 
A brake controlled truing device should work just fine, but different abrasives are recommended for diamond than cbn. For one face of one wheel the same abrasive will likely work fine.
....

The bond which you are removing in dressing a diamond and cbn wheel are the same.
I don't get the different abrasive deal.
I do have boxes on the shelf of 8 different dressing wheels or "stones" for differing bonds and grits and some green and some black.
Motorized and brake dressers here and some between where the motor starts the spin and then the brakes come in at speed.

The "right" wheel in CBN would certainly be preferred here but a diamond wheel can be used with care and more time.
Diamond wheels just plain don't like steel or worse yet braze overflow, yet if you make tipped carbide, cbn, diamond tools you have no choice.
Bob
 
We would feel a parked brake dresser under the wheel to feel where it was likely to bump the running wheel with first hand turning the not-running wheel, then raise .005 or so with a way-up then down to .005 less down, hand spin (we used a pencil)the break whell under the running wheel and drop .001 or so until we got a light hit to start the break wheel..then try to keep it drag-running with cross and small drops toll the diamond wheel was dressed.

Good to indicate the wheel in to .001 or so before dressing.. this for a safer hit and so the wheel will run out of diamonds all around the OD.. It is a shame to run out of diamond on one side of a wheel and so waste .015 or so of diamond on the other side OD of the wheel.

Some time one might diamond wheel grind a soft steel or brass slug to true up a small flat on a diamond wheel OD. Direction of feed can help keep a diamond wheel truer to remove a high side. Always use diamond wheels wet. a hanging bucket of coolant works if not not having a pump.. with a rubber hose to just touch the wheel.
 
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Good to indicate the wheel in to .001 or so before dressing.. this for a safer hit and so the wheel will run out of diamonds all Around.. It is a shame to run out of diamond on one side of a wheel and so waste .015 or so of diamond.

All in favor of indicating ( which eats gage tips) but...
The darn cores are not true to the factory dressed OD so even if never removed from the hub you throw away the .015 thou. high oneside at the end.
How rare is it to have one one these wheels clean to the core all around at end of life?
Have you ever, ever seen this happen on a OD wheel?
Done the open the hole and offset a wheel worn down to the core on one side at oh-shit/need parts time?

15 is high more like 5-7 in my world and once mounted and trued I try to never remove a diamond or cbn from it's adapter.
Doing so is throwing money out the window and Sopko wheel hubs are cheap.

The big picture is total life of the tooling, end of life waste is dismissed by some but it does matter when your diamond/cbn wheel costs is running 10K plus per month.
Every dollar lost could be put into an employees paycheck with no drawdound.
Bob
 
We would keep a gauge tip just for this task..others might keep a piece of shim stock (.005 or so) to protect the gauge tip..Older name brand diamond wheel would run perhaps .005 and less error to the core..the clearance to the hub diameter to wheel bore if .003 will make the wheel run out core to waste .006...

Agree cbn wheels are often good/better than diamond in some cases for harder steel...
 








 
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