GREAT Surface Grinder Manual
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  1. #1
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    Default GREAT Surface Grinder Manual

    I was researching a lube system question on a DL 12 Do-All grinder and came across this manual and it shows many tips on surface grinding and trouble shoots lines in the grind, dressing the wheel, grinding the chuck, etc. Its a Do-All but surface grinding. The fun stuff and tips starts at page 22. If it's use full please donate a few dollars http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/256/6564.pdf

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    Thanks for posting the link Rich.

    Best Regards,
    Bob

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    That's a very useful reference, Rich. Thank you.

    metalmagpie

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    the "cool grinding flanges" are interesting. is anybody using them? would that work with any wheel?

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    I noted those too. I would think it would have to be a pretty "open" and porous wheel for that to work very well. That manual does have some pretty good basic grinding info for those not very well versed in grinding yet. Goes a little more in-depth than most.

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    Thanks for the reference link. It was very informative.

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    the "cool grinding flanges" are interesting. is anybody using them?
    I had an electrical glitch in my D10-30 440v that somehow has not been attended to, and a half dozen years flew by.
    Most of my work in the interval has been tool making, and the re-scraped B & S 6-18 is better for that. Also have a planer that does a lot of what used to go on the D10-30.

    To answer the question, I used it relentlessly. It works quite well, and you can still use it with flood at the same time on big work/heavy passes. My impression from my manual is that DoALL came up with it in part because their grinders could be outfitted for creep feed in deep form work. Putting the coolant through the wheel to the point of cut in a buried wheel has a lot of merit. I did some rudimentary creep feed on some small forms, but most of what the grinder was used for was surface grinding large, flat pieces of steel and some CI.

    would that work with any wheel?
    IME it will work with any vitrified wheel.
    Contrary to everything a person learns everywhere else ("always use the blotters") DoAll advises to remove the blotters for this app. However, they used to supply wheels with perforated blotters that could be used. They are common enough on the aftermarket, but other than keeping the spec of each wheel straight after removing the blotters, i never had any trouble with that method on other wheels.

    smt

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    If anyone is in need of those cool grind blotters, let me know..

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    as the blotters would be much smaller than the flanges, why remove or perforate them?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dian View Post
    as the blotters would be much smaller than the flanges, why remove or perforate them?
    All the ones on my 10" wheels are near the same size as the flange. If they weren't, they would be worthless. Plus if they were smaller and left on they would soak with coolant and dissolve and plug the wheel with paper pulp.

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    Had the opportunity to use a good friend of mine 6 x 18 Do All, what a great tool. He rebuilt it going through everything, not just repainting the outside. The fine adjustment knob controlling the wheel height allows you exact stock removal.

    Why couldn’t you use any hub and direct some of the coolant flow to spray on the side of the wheel just below the hub? It should help keep everything cool to also prevent the wheel from growing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by majohnson View Post
    Had the opportunity to use a good friend of mine 6 x 18 Do All, what a great tool. He rebuilt it going through everything, not just repainting the outside. The fine adjustment knob controlling the wheel height allows you exact stock removal.

    Why couldn’t you use any hub and direct some of the coolant flow to spray on the side of the wheel just below the hub? It should help keep everything cool to also prevent the wheel from growing.
    The flanges ensure that the coolant goes into the wheel. Just directing the coolant against the side of the wheel would probably result in most of it getting flung off right at the edges, with none going to the center. Since the flanges capture the coolant and direct it into the wheel via centrifugal force, the coolant has nowhere to go but into the wheel.

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    I don't have any of the cool grind flanges, but I do have some OLD, and I mean OLD Simmons 7" wheels that are advertised as "induced porosity" I got these from a grinding shop that closed it doors and was told that granulated plastic or sometimes wood dust was included in the pre vitrified compreg for these wheels The shop had several DoAll grinders that went to another buyer along with a very fancy Wickman optical profile grinder.

    The simmons "induced porosity" wheels have to be spun out for several minutes after the coolant is shut off or you'll have a severely out of balance wheel next time They have a decided very porous look, very much like lava rock or natural sponge

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    as the blotters would be much smaller than the flanges, why remove or perforate them?
    What Ray said. The blotters are every bit as big as the aluminum inducer flanges on most 10" wheels. DoALL perforated the rims of the blotters at about the same radius as the holes in the inducers on the wheels they sold directly. As Ray also notes, they provided perforated blotters loose for those that wanted them. To go a little further - the way the inducer is machined, there is a slight groove that is fed by the holes. So the coolant that is induced that far more or less can't escape unless it goes sideways through the wheel. I image that the effect is a little smaller if no blotters are used. but never did any tests. The systems just works pretty well. The big issues on my machine were cleaning out the corrosion in the system form time to time. (the drillings/passages in the head). You do have to run a good filtration system, too. With reasonable flow capacity.

    Why couldn’t you use any hub and direct some of the coolant flow to spray on the side of the wheel
    You can if you want to.
    It won't work near as well.
    In case it's not obvious, there is an inducer and a coolant tube to feed it, on both sides of the wheel.

    Induced porosity wheels were originally designed to entrain air and cool the work that way, so they could be used on machines that did not have liquid coolant.

    I like them either way. With coolant they are even cooler.
    However, they do erode faster than say a 8 or even 12 porosity conventional wheel.
    Which stands to reason since there is something like (going from faulty memory) 40% less abrasive in some of them.

    DoAll's system was designed to work with any typical vitirified wheel.

    smt


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