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GREAT Surface Grinder Manual

the "cool grinding flanges" are interesting. is anybody using them? would that work with any wheel?
 
I noted those too. I would think it would have to be a pretty "open" and porous wheel for that to work very well. That manual does have some pretty good basic grinding info for those not very well versed in grinding yet. Goes a little more in-depth than most.
 
the "cool grinding flanges" are interesting. is anybody using them?

I had an electrical glitch in my D10-30 440v that somehow has not been attended to, and a half dozen years flew by.
Most of my work in the interval has been tool making, and the re-scraped B & S 6-18 is better for that. Also have a planer that does a lot of what used to go on the D10-30.

To answer the question, I used it relentlessly. It works quite well, and you can still use it with flood at the same time on big work/heavy passes. My impression from my manual is that DoALL came up with it in part because their grinders could be outfitted for creep feed in deep form work. Putting the coolant through the wheel to the point of cut in a buried wheel has a lot of merit. I did some rudimentary creep feed on some small forms, but most of what the grinder was used for was surface grinding large, flat pieces of steel and some CI.

would that work with any wheel?
IME it will work with any vitrified wheel.
Contrary to everything a person learns everywhere else ("always use the blotters") DoAll advises to remove the blotters for this app. However, they used to supply wheels with perforated blotters that could be used. They are common enough on the aftermarket, but other than keeping the spec of each wheel straight after removing the blotters, i never had any trouble with that method on other wheels.

smt
 
as the blotters would be much smaller than the flanges, why remove or perforate them?
 
as the blotters would be much smaller than the flanges, why remove or perforate them?

All the ones on my 10" wheels are near the same size as the flange. If they weren't, they would be worthless. Plus if they were smaller and left on they would soak with coolant and dissolve and plug the wheel with paper pulp.
 
Had the opportunity to use a good friend of mine 6 x 18 Do All, what a great tool. He rebuilt it going through everything, not just repainting the outside. The fine adjustment knob controlling the wheel height allows you exact stock removal.

Why couldn’t you use any hub and direct some of the coolant flow to spray on the side of the wheel just below the hub? It should help keep everything cool to also prevent the wheel from growing.
 
Had the opportunity to use a good friend of mine 6 x 18 Do All, what a great tool. He rebuilt it going through everything, not just repainting the outside. The fine adjustment knob controlling the wheel height allows you exact stock removal.

Why couldn’t you use any hub and direct some of the coolant flow to spray on the side of the wheel just below the hub? It should help keep everything cool to also prevent the wheel from growing.

The flanges ensure that the coolant goes into the wheel. Just directing the coolant against the side of the wheel would probably result in most of it getting flung off right at the edges, with none going to the center. Since the flanges capture the coolant and direct it into the wheel via centrifugal force, the coolant has nowhere to go but into the wheel.
 
I don't have any of the cool grind flanges, but I do have some OLD, and I mean OLD Simmons 7" wheels that are advertised as "induced porosity" I got these from a grinding shop that closed it doors and was told that granulated plastic or sometimes wood dust was included in the pre vitrified compreg for these wheels The shop had several DoAll grinders that went to another buyer along with a very fancy Wickman optical profile grinder.

The simmons "induced porosity" wheels have to be spun out for several minutes after the coolant is shut off or you'll have a severely out of balance wheel next time They have a decided very porous look, very much like lava rock or natural sponge
 
as the blotters would be much smaller than the flanges, why remove or perforate them?

What Ray said. The blotters are every bit as big as the aluminum inducer flanges on most 10" wheels. DoALL perforated the rims of the blotters at about the same radius as the holes in the inducers on the wheels they sold directly. As Ray also notes, they provided perforated blotters loose for those that wanted them. To go a little further - the way the inducer is machined, there is a slight groove that is fed by the holes. So the coolant that is induced that far more or less can't escape unless it goes sideways through the wheel. I image that the effect is a little smaller if no blotters are used. but never did any tests. The systems just works pretty well. The big issues on my machine were cleaning out the corrosion in the system form time to time. (the drillings/passages in the head). You do have to run a good filtration system, too. With reasonable flow capacity.

Why couldn’t you use any hub and direct some of the coolant flow to spray on the side of the wheel

You can if you want to.
It won't work near as well.
In case it's not obvious, there is an inducer and a coolant tube to feed it, on both sides of the wheel.

Induced porosity wheels were originally designed to entrain air and cool the work that way, so they could be used on machines that did not have liquid coolant.

I like them either way. With coolant they are even cooler. :)
However, they do erode faster than say a 8 or even 12 porosity conventional wheel.
Which stands to reason since there is something like (going from faulty memory) 40% less abrasive in some of them.

DoAll's system was designed to work with any typical vitirified wheel.

smt
 
Had the opportunity to use a good friend of mine 6 x 18 Do All...

Do you know if your friend documented his rebuild in any way? I have a D6-1 (6x18) that needs some repair, and I'd sure like to get some advice before I dig into the saddle. Thanks.
 
We had one at work that was converted to a punch polisher, so no coolant used.
I was reading the manual and I recall it said to shut off the coolant and let it spin out of the wheel before shutdown. If you don't, it may lead to an unbalanced wheel next time. I would expect you need clean coolant also.

Dave
 
QT Cyclotronguy
[OLD Simmons 7" wheels that are advertised as "induced porosity" I got these from a grinding shop that closed it doors and was told that granulated plastic or sometimes wood dust was included in the pre vitrified compreg for these wheels]

Vitrified wheels are abrasive grits like aluminum oxide, chunks of flint, diamonds or some other hard material that is mixed with a clay or glass-like substance that can melt to hold the grits together, and a spacing material that sets the grits apart so to control the porosity/concentration/spacing of the grits when the wheel if fired so the glass like material melts and sticks/bonds all together..
One spacing/porosity-maker was walnut shells that were crushed and graded/screened for size so they would be mixed with grits and bonds to space the grits for porosity calling like 80%, 50% (whatever).

When the wheel was fired the walnut shells would space the grits and then completely disappear to make a clean empty space between the grits. Walnut shells were replaced with more modern spacer materials that acted the same way.

The bond type/selection was such that a certain type/combination would hold grits with more or less holding ability to become the hardness designation.. so grits would hold more or less so to be best for the type of material they were to grind.

Old vitrified wheels that ring are most likely safe to use from a blow-up standpoint, but if not having an RPM listed on the wheel that could be a safety factor. Breathing wheel dust can also be a safety factor.

Vitrified wheels should always have a blotter even if you make them from cereal box stock and sick them with Elmer's glue. The blotter allows a high grit facet to not become the wedge that stresses the wheel to cracking or breaking....along with protecting your hubs and helping to avoid a miss fit/condition of the hub to stress the wheel. Replaced blotters should have wheel information added. Wheel hubs should be bug free.
 
Re:
[Vitrified wheels should always have a blotter even if you make them from cereal box stock and sick them with Elmer's glue. The blotter allows a high grit facet to not become the wedge that stresses the wheel to cracking or breaking....along with protecting your hubs and helping to avoid a miss fit/condition of the hub to stress the wheel. Replaced blotters should have wheel information added. Wheel hubs should be bug free.]

*Sorry for my error, I should have added that the blotter also helps the wheel from slipping on the mount. Slippery mount faces would be easy for a wheel to slip on.

Wheels have some hole clearance, and the hole gets bigger as you re-mount it many times. So it is prone to moving and slipping. One of these days I will give the tightening torque number (a waste of valuable time IMHO for a single nut mount).
I tighten as tight as I can with the standard length wrench with one hand on the wheel and one on the wrench...
Then I set my wrench out-end on a block, and with two hands on the wheel go a little tighter.

Doing this I never have a wheel spin or come loose.
Oh, the mount thread should be the direction that tightens the wheel (most often left hand on a surface grinder).
 








 
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