Grinding 4140 with Diamond - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Wouldn't be hard to find his name, Look up the info I posted. He's AMU team member. Easier is to look at July 2018 of Shooting Sports USA NRA's online magazine. He's on the cover. Click on Archives scroll down to July 2018, click on the thumbnail then use the arrow on the right to turn the pages.
    I have a friend with wire EDM, he said he will cut hammers for me if I supply drawing. I'm trying to figure out what material is best. Posted question in gunsmithing topic, got no replies.

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    QT:[I looked at the Jack Jr. Will that accurately dress the wheel?]
    No the crackerjack mini will not dead flat true a wheel with it being hand held. It will male an AO or green wheel run smooth and true at a hand made radius, angle or hand flat that is often needed in making a one up wheel for a task. It will also dress a diamond or CBN wheel but with greater loss to the crackerjack dressing wheel.
    The Norbide sticks do the same thing to shape a wheel to some desired form/shape.

    Anyone doing one or few up forms needs both IMHO.
    *Very common a grinder hand would dress a wheel to a desired shape/ use that wheel to make a gauge template (perhaps of plastic or even thin wood)for future remaking that same form, and then use the shaped wheel to make parts. (with restoring it using the gauge as needed)

    I have one theses I will be selling (but not having the box)
    J&S FLUIDMOTION RADII ANGLE WHEEL DRESSER | eBay

    And the dresser I mentioned that traces a form template is a Tracaform, but I cant find a photo of that on the internet.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Froneck View Post
    Wouldn't be hard to find his name, Look up the info I posted. He's AMU team member. Easier is to look at July 2018 of Shooting Sports USA NRA's online magazine. He's on the cover. Click on Archives scroll down to July 2018, click on the thumbnail then use the arrow on the right to turn the pages.
    I have a friend with wire EDM, he said he will cut hammers for me if I supply drawing. I'm trying to figure out what material is best. Posted question in gunsmithing topic, got no replies.
    S7, 17-4, 17-7, 8620, 9130 and A2 are all pretty pretty common. Wilson says they use "A2 or Stainless" lol.
    I have S7 (probably what I would go with, even though it's way overkill) and 17-4 on hand. They can be made from 4140 as well. As you already know, many on the market are MIM'ed with mistery metal and they are still rarely a fail point. It's pretty low impact for any of the above steels compared to other applications they are used in when properly heat treated.

    I found him last night, out of curiosity. One of the most skilled guys on the planet. That right there is something to be proud of.

  4. #24
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    I like using Diamond or CBN wheels, will that dresser work on Diamond?

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    I also have drawings somewhere if you need them.

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    QT: [I like using Diamond or CBN wheels, will that dresser work on Diamond?]

    No, just for AO and green wheels.
    A rolling wheel brake dresser is for diamond wheels and will work on CBN with much wear to the dressing wheel.but mostly for a flat dress.

    norton break dresser - Yahoo Image Search Results

    coated wheels can be had for a special shapes in CBN and diamond but are very expensive for one-up and few-up work.

  7. #27
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    Something like this with a large concave radius and perhaps a 30* 30* roll right and left would be fairly easy with AO wheels but difficult with diamond and CBN wheels. IMHO
    gun sight - Yahoo Image Search Results (wait for it)

  8. #28
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    Interesting sights, some not suitable for competition, the Red Dot Scopes seen some a junk, the Aimpoint 9000SC is good but has issues. Pistol competition shooters made the Red Dot popular after someone mounted it on a pistol and won the national match. Soon many other brands popped up. Then the AR craze started and they all jumped ship. Now most have night visions setting so at many of the intensity setting the Dot can't be seen in normal day light.
    The thing I'm doing is grinding the height of the lower lug, that height and proper engagement with the slide stop pin are critical to accuracy. In addition if not properly done will lead to self loading problems and stop the slide from closing. Radius is not critical, none will work but shoulder thickness is about 1/8", sharp corner might crack. Ramp to shoulder is about 1 degree, that I can do with sine chuck. But ramp needs to be flat and smooth.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9finger View Post
    I also have drawings somewhere if you need them.
    Yes I would like it! I want to remove the typical hammer hook and change it to what has been called years ago to High Standard .45 hammer. It has a notch similar to hammers in other pistols. Doing that will eliminate the need for secondary angle on the sear, that secondary angle is what ruins a good "trigger job" after shooting for a while. My preferred trigger style is short roll rather than crisp.
    As to trigger material, extreme overkill is desired! I too have quite a bit of S7 plus 17-4. Have most of the SS alloys, do work for local poultry plant. S7 from local auction.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Froneck View Post
    Yes I would like it! I want to remove the typical hammer hook and change it to what has been called years ago to High Standard .45 hammer. It has a notch similar to hammers in other pistols. Doing that will eliminate the need for secondary angle on the sear, that secondary angle is what ruins a good "trigger job" after shooting for a while. My preferred trigger style is short roll rather than crisp.
    As to trigger material, extreme overkill is desired! I too have quite a bit of S7 plus 17-4. Have most of the SS alloys, do work for local poultry plant. S7 from local auction.
    Let me dig them up, and shoot me a PM as a reminder.
    If you have pre-heat treated 17-4 or 17-7, I'd go that route, if neither is HT already, I'd rock the S7. Think about an AR bolt...Generally C158, sometimes 9310. Takes way more abuse in a couple mags than a 1911 hammer over a normal lifetime. The carriers are 8620. The military is testing S7 bolts now, but are kind of leaning towards it being a waste of time since pretty much everything else is in need of repair by the time you drive a bolt to failure.

    Honestly, you could get away with 8-1-1 Titanium for the hammer an have a faster lock time. It's impact resistance is higher than some of the metals used in 1911 hammers of today, and of old. I have a lot of scrap pieces of that and it's really hard to get. If he is going to EDM some for you, you might as well have him do several. If you'd like some 8-1-1 scraps to play with, I can give you some free of charge. He could do S7 and Ti, just for kicks. If you aren't familiar with 8-1-1, look into the metalurgy of it, it is quite impressive.

    I use it for full auto suppressors where 6Al-4V would fail due to the extreme temperature cycling. 8-1-1 takes it like a champ.

  11. #31
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    That post was not about the sight at all. It was the about the grind. A wheel dressed at a very large concave radius and the part being turned perhaps 30* to the right and to the left oi make a very nice-looking part. Yes, the radius could have been made convex to make a different look. It is often difficult do that kind of grinding with diamond and CBN wheels because they are mostly only dressed flat so only making straight across grinds.

    gun sight - Yahoo Image Search Results (wait for the single sight.)

  12. #32
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    Honestly, you could get away with 8-1-1 Titanium for the hammer an have a faster lock time. It's impact resistance is higher than some of the metals used in 1911 hammers of today, and of old. I have a lot of scrap pieces of that and it's really hard to get. If he is going to EDM some for you, you might as well have him do several. If you'd like some 8-1-1 scraps to play with, I can give you some free of charge. He could do S7 and Ti, just for kicks. If you aren't familiar with 8-1-1, look into the metalurgy of it, it is quite impressive.
    [/QUOTE]
    What I'm looking for is hammer hook wear resistance. Especially on roll type triggers. I want to move the strut pin hole slightly and if putting it and the pivot pin hole with a Jig Borer I can get the sear weight lower. On the 80% frames they don't have the holes for the hammer or the sear so I'll put them exactly where I want them straight and parallel with the Jig Borer. My son said he would rather shoot a gun with 2" group and great trigger than a 1" grouping gun with a lousy trigger. I feel the same but want to make the sub 1" gun with a perfect trigger! I purchased a bunch of the braze-in carbide inserts in a soft grade so they will not chip, I have a bunch of old GI hammers, I plan to silver brace the carbide inserts in a cut made where the hammer hooks are and grind a thin slot for the sear in the carbide.

  13. #33
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    [QUOTE=michiganbuck;3364924]That post was not about the sight at all. It was the about the grind. A wheel dressed at a very large concave radius and the part being turned perhaps 30* to the right and to the left oi make a very nice-looking part. Yes, the radius could have been made convex to make a different look. It is often difficult do that kind of grinding with diamond and CBN wheels because they are mostly only dressed flat so only making straight across grinds.

    As I mentioned the radius means nothing, want it to prevent cracking. Pin OD is .200 so any radius less than .095 will work. The flat area must be perfectly flat and as smooth as possible! Not much material to remove if there it is can be roughed out in another set-up. At the most .005 is all that will be removed! Any angles can be done with magnetic sine chuck.

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  15. #35
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    [QUOTE=michiganbuck;3365259]I'm guessing this is the project

    Yes, The angle is critical so is the flatness. Radius on shoulder side is not but I do not put a radius on the other side, transition is almost with no radius, just enough to remove sharp edge.


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