Grinding Projects

kakkeef2 · May 5, 2008

Just for kicks (and the fact I am ignorant :confused:

of this type of work,) let’s see some of the different types of projects people have done on their grinding equipment (tool grinders, surface grinders, etc…) Pictures would be nice. I have always found it interesting to see how other people make things.
Example: the tool grinders I bought where used for many things, but one of the neatest was the shortining of rearend axles. They would regrind the splines instead of mill or shape them.
Milacron, feel free to nuke this thread if you think it’s a waste of space.
Thanks,
Kyle

Holescreek · May 5, 2008

I spend more time making my own accessories just in case I need them than I do grinding foer the sake of grinding. One project I am starting to design is a powered rotary table that rides on an air bearing.

Diamond wheel dresser

Dust Collector

Collector Chute

Holescreek · May 5, 2008

Motor driven spin grinder:

MarcS · May 9, 2008

I would say an angle plate is the most usefull thing you can make. I made a nice 4.5" angle plate out of D2 although it got ripped off when our shop got robbed. They bought me a piece of crap Suburban for a replacement. Anyway, that and v-blocks (those got ripped off too), precision vise, sine plate, surface gage, parallels, 1-2-3 blocks, that kind of stuff. Here's a tip, make a surface gage out of 300 series stainless so you can indicate parts while on the grinder, I took the easy way out and bought a nice B&S gage on Ebay and welded a piece on the bottom.

Marc

Kevco · May 9, 2008

I've been making parts out of stainless for a truck I'm building. Have a bunch of stuff if your interested. Here is a one of the latches that was ground out on a surface grinder on a tang. I got into stainless steel as chrome just doesn't last anymore and I can polish this stuff out myself. Kevin

stephen thomas · May 9, 2008

Holescreek, nice projects!

One suggestion on woodwork, though: when screwing plywood/MDF/Particle board together on a 90deg butt, angle the screws. For 3/4" material, pencil a line on the part that laps over, at 3/4 to 13/16 in from the edge. On this line, predrill a clearance hole at an angle down to the inside edge of the sheet it butts. Predrill a starting hole for the screw thread size, continuing diagonally across the butted piece. The thread should enter, not quite visible, at the inside edge of the butted part, and continue diagonally across to within about 1/4" of the outside. Even closer if particle/MDF since the bulge can be sanded flat.

It may be necessary to use a temporary batten or space block inside to keep the sides from drawing in too far, but the screws angling across the plys will not split it, and will vastly improve holding power.

smt

bobnolathe · May 9, 2008

happy to see this thread.

I had a surface grinder years ago that weent to and fro using a gear drive, Ran off an overhead main shaft. Just got a much used Doall 8 Tool and Cutter Grinder (tcg)that does everyting except the to and fro bit .The head tips. Is great. First project was to make a jig to hold milling cutter for sharpening. The jig is up and running and was build around R8 collets since I already had them. I can resharpen cutters like new on the ends only, havent figured out how to do the sides. I got some really bad cutters and cut the ends off and put new ends on. Thiis is harder than it looks done from scratch. Some of my efforts cut ok but some are wierd. I tell people these are chinese.. I am thinking about a air cylinder drive
to do the X axis like the old job .
I also aquired a box of Dumoe Tool Post Grinders parts and was able to put together two good units and have some left overs,, Got a 1/2 hp dumore motor, an extra saddle, a few grind stone holders, both inside and outside, and have made a couple of spares. My lathe is a 13-40 and cannot use the larger tpg, I think a 14 inch would fit so would sell the big one and the extra motor if anyone is interested.

.

Holescreek · May 9, 2008

SMT, the screws were only used until the gorrila glue dried! Then I had to caulk all of the seams to seal the cabinet. -Mike

tigmusky · May 9, 2008

nice work boys. keep the pics comming. Yep i need a surface grind.
thanks daye

kakkeef2 · May 10, 2008

bobnolathe,
You need a whatchamacallit. Called something like a Wilton Air ride.... Can't remember. If I get a chance, I will take a pic of one I have. The tool goes in the end of the shaft that slides back and forth in a tube that has air pumped into it. This creates kind of a air ride chamber for the shaft to slide back and forth easily. You rotate the tool to the grinding wheel by putting a pin up into one of the flutes so that the cutter will follow the flute.
To all, keep the pics and projects coming. Awesome sofar. Great info for a grinding newbie such as myself.
Keep up the good work guys.
Kyle

Kevco · May 10, 2008

Here's another stainless project. Made up some inner door handles and window cranks. I liked the design of the original door handles so I copied those but the window cranks looked odd in comparison. Came up with a design that seemed to go better with the door handles, at least to me anyway

Original mounting shafts were square so did that first along with drilling mounting holes in the bases to attach the handles themselves. Ground out the outer square on the surface grinder and the whole thing was on a tang.

Handles were rough cut with a plasma, then used an angle grinder and moved to a belt sander. After hand sanding down to 800 grit started buffing till they were mirror

rj newbould · May 10, 2008

Kevco... Now that's what I call a beautiful result of non-precision abrasive machining...

Kevco · May 10, 2008

Here's another one for you. It's a back window screen to protect the glass. Original piece just had the wires bent around but I had another idea to clean it up. Bent the outer frame up from 3/8" rod. Measured the frame to get the spacing exactly right on the wires and made a drill jig out of hardened steel with 45 degree holes. Drill the first hole right and slide another drill in there to locate it. After that it self locates the rest of the holes.(bar has a 3/8 groove ground in it to "lay" on the rod.

After all the holes were drilled, polished the frame and wires and started sliding them in. Left them a little long and TIG welded them with NO other rod needed. Ground close with an angle grinder then hand file close. Ink up with a magic marker and blend with a fine mill file. San a polish and you can't tell how they're attched.

We grind our parts to size at work (.0002 total tolerance) and use the magic marker trick to blend to. NO metal is taken off to the blend and they are perfect and still have the same mic dimension.

A lot of things were made in the old days without CNC, just takes a little more thought and work.

easymike299 · May 10, 2008

Grinding projects

I made this sine plate in or around 1957.

AlexBanich · May 11, 2008

I must admit I'm extremely impressed with the simplicity and fine finish of those handles! Thats truely impressive

rj newbould · May 12, 2008

AlexBanich said:
I must admit I'm extremely impressed with the simplicity and fine finish of those handles! Thats truely impressive

And to think... There was a little resistance to having a forum that would include belt sanders.

I've seen a lot of good work done on them.

rj newbould · May 12, 2008

Kevco... That screen is a work of art... :cheers:

Kevco · May 12, 2008

Here the mirrors. Bought the mirror backs with lenses and rubber but the rest is one off. Internal hardware and ball was mild steel so I made those up out of stainless as well. Yes, I need help but enjoy making this stuff as a stress releiver

Freehand turned taper on the shafts and the arms are totally adjustable. Bent all the metal and ground the reliefs on the surface grinder holding them in a Starrett Machinist Vise. Arms end ground again on a surface grinder and the ball detail in last pic is the result of hand filing.

Jon Bohlander · May 13, 2008

Not the prettiest but this is a useful one. I made this tilt block for grinding relief angles on lathe tools. It has the angle (7 degrees, I think is what I used) milled on 2 edges of the bottom and the tool can be clamped on any of the sides or top. FWIW, thats not rust on the chuck. It is LPS3

rj newbould · May 13, 2008

Jon... What is the item coming out the bottom on the left side that looks like a long thumb screw?

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