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Harig 618 Surface Grinder

ncrouter

Plastic
Joined
Oct 29, 2019
Just brought home a Harig 618 surface grinder and discovered it is not set up for a 1" wide wheel so if anyone can help me figure out how to change it over from a 1/2" wide wheel to a 1" wide wheel I'd appreciate it.
Also, when you start the machine the only way the machine will keep running is if you hold the emergency stop button 'out'. Do I need a new 'stop' button and where can I get one?
Thanks, George
 
Goggle Sopko wheel adapters.
While I'll run up to 2 inch wide on this machine for plunge grind form work a one inch for regular grinding is a bit big for this little guy.
Not sure on the switch is it a rotate to release to open?
Bob
 
Just brought home a Harig 618 surface grinder and discovered it is not set up for a 1" wide wheel so if anyone can help me figure out how to change it over from a 1/2" wide wheel to a 1" wide wheel I'd appreciate it.
Also, when you start the machine the only way the machine will keep running is if you hold the emergency stop button 'out'. Do I need a new 'stop' button and where can I get one?
Thanks, George

why do you need a 1" wide wheel? If it is set up for a 1/2" wheel, there is probably a reason, such as the HP of the motor. doubling the contact area may not be a good idea on a small grinder like this. the wheels cost more too.
sounds like you have already figured out the problem with the E stop button. try Mouser electronics for a replacement.
 
Thanks to all for their replies. The switch is kind of weird. You pull it out and turn the 'on' switch on and it starts everything but the 'stop' switch doesn't lock and as soon as you release it everything shuts down. Our Okuma has a rotate to release so I understand that. Found a switch for $400 (it may be a typo)so I'll definitely check Sopko and Mouser,thanks. I thought there was some magical way that switch was supposed to work and I wasn't getting it.
As for the 1" wide wheel, that's what we were using on the old Boyar-Schultz 618 Challenger which we are retiring because the bearings are going and we're told it's not worth fixing. (I kind of have my doubts about that) It still runs well but the bearing are rattling and the finish is in the 60's and we often need a 16 or 32 finish. I'm always open to ideas, thanks.
Ha! Here's a good one for you. The wife and I were checking out electrical etc and I grabbed a 1" wheel from the cabinet showing her what I was talking about and she says 'isn't that one a recessed wheel?' And it was, and it fits, of course. I guess it's one of those things that you do automatically and when you change anything you start to over-think it. She's going to clean the Harig for me while I make some parts, what a deal
 
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Well,cleaning is going pretty well on the Harig but I have a few questions, of course. I'm not sure I've figured out how to add pictures in here yet and that sure would be helpful. And do correct my nomenclature if I'm calling parts by their wrong names, it's difficult discussing thing-a-ma-jigs. Thanks
We removed the magnetic chuck and discovered 8 plates underneath. They look factory installed, all evenly spaced. I don't want to disturb them but it all needs cleaning.I have since learned they were put there to level the magnetic chuck. And what to use for cleaning solution? Previous owners used something that has wrinkled the paint on some of the casting and I'd like to clean that up and repaint it but not sure what to use for primer and top coat.

The ways are a "V" on the back and a "flat" on the front and the scraping marks are on the saddle or bottom piece. And the table or top piece that moves the 'V' and 'flat' are smooth and all look real good, except, the 'V' on the saddle-top piece has a 'V groove' the whole length of the way right on the point and it's either full of crud of there's a strip of cork laying in there to hold way oil. I didn't want to dig it out until I got more information. And I've learned it's crud. Just old grinding dust that has solidified in there as that groove is suppose to hold way oil

The way oil ran over inside the cabinet base a long long time ago and some pieces that were left in there had to be cut loose and pried out and the paint is virtually gone if I can get all that gunk out of there. Help? I see repainting in the near future

And lastly, I think I'm missing one of the two screens that are supposed to be on the way oil pump. There's not much in the manual so I'll have to call Harig about that. The one screen that's there is in great shape so hopefully tomorrow we'll flush the system and make sure all the lines are flowing well. Thanks for any help you can send my way.
 

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You machine looks showroom compared to most grinders in service. The best cleaner I've found is LPS PreSolve Orange Degreaser. Gloves and a scotch brite pad. Harig is OOB for grinders anyway, theres a couple folks that have parts but not much selection.The oil pump is a weak item, and about $500 if you can find one. The filters are just strainers, clean and install. If you have it apart replace all the cheap plastic oil lines.
 
The Harig looks great and should work great after a tune-up. I question the wisdom of a wide wheel on these machines and you'll certainly have to balance it. IMO, changing bearings on a Boyer-Schultz is pretty easy, not terribly expensive and certainly worth doing.
 
Good you are cleaning up the insides. If convenient run a strip of masking tape along the opening from long table to base to overlap 1/4 to 1/2"(just an extra dust shield, oil the base so tape does not stick there.)
3/4 hp+ will pull a medium grit 1" wheel with no problem (agree you wont be hogging with it). Recess 1" wheel should need a 3/4 wide mount.

3/4 recess wheel will go on a 1/2 mount and is a very good choice on a 618 SG.

Good to be able to make your wheel nut under flush, with a recess wheel so the face can grind more if you have a wide faced part to top and face in one pass.

Many Harig 618s came with 1.5 motor,
Seems you old grinder wheel mount should fit.
Sopko or ebay...for mount
 








 
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