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Jones & Shipman 540 Manual

RonRock

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Location
Underwood, IA
Anybody have a copy of the J&S 540 manual they could share with me? I recently bought a 540 and have no idea what to do now that I have it in my shop. Never had a surface grinder before, just knew that I need one.

It is a 3 phase machine with the two round buttons. So I'm guessing that it has a "mag" starter switch. I was thinking that I could at least get it running to see if all is good with a VFD. But trouble with that is that you are supposed to control the 3 phase power with the VFD rather than the machine switch. So I would have to bypass the mag switch. Seems like that would be easy enough, but I'd like to see a wiring diagram before I open anything up and start guessing.

If I am able to get the motors running I still do not know for certain what the controls on the machine do. Again a manual would be best starting point.

One concern that I have is the lever on the right side, front of the panel. I think that it controls the forward/back motion. Someone has clobbered that up with a piece of stock hanging over the top with a spring holding the lever down. Obviously something is wrong with that.

If you could help me out with a manual I'd get you my email of address whatever is preferred.

Thank You,
Ron

Here is a picture from another thread. Someone else's machine but same as mine.

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Anybody have a copy of the J&S 540 manual they could share with me?

See your email (:-).

I recently bought a 540 and have no idea what to do now that I have it in my shop. Never had a surface grinder before, just knew that I need one.

They are very useful. I was just using mine an hour ago to touch up the four mounting pads on a new Sino linear encoder (glass scale). Now the pads all lie in a single plane perpendicular to the side of the scale.
 
Looks late 60-early 70's same as mine based on the control pannel on the front if yours is as picture, its one of the easiest way to date them. My motors had 1969 as the year of manufacture on there data tags.

In my case the pump motor was shot, insulation falling off, so i simply swapped it out for a std 4 pole single phase motor, dead easy it was a std size and the motor being only 1/3rd Hp was less than half the VFD cost would have been.

Remove the 4 bolts on that outer panel and all the electrics is there for you. I don't have a wiring diagram, my wiring was terrible so i simply gutted and started over. Its not complex, you have a pump motor and a spindle motor. My case i did the pump on a simple suitably rated switch and a separate switch and speed pot for the VFD driving the spindle motor. Replacing the smaller panel the original switchers were mounted in.

Whilst your in there, you need to check the rubber mounts the spindle hangs on, they fail in time, there common and only a few quid each though, so its more awkward than anything else.

Same goes for the pump motor + pump it sits on 3 more of those vibration mounts, they fail the chain drops in the tank and throws oil every were. Same happens if the small chain lube drip adjuster is too high and puts too much oil on the chain. The bottom of the hydraulic tank will be full of shit, its kinda designed that way just clean it out, check the strainer on the bottom of the hydraulic oil pump pick up is ok too, if not its a std 3/4 BSP thread strainer and readily available for only a few quid also. Clean out the little basket that the oil return pipe in the middle sits in because again if it over flows it tends to piss oil every were.

Leaver your talking about starts the table motion side to side standing at the front of it. Blue bit on the right goes down to stops that stop that motion once its traveled far enough to trip that blue arm.

To start cross feed its the little leaver in the middle of the cross feed dial on the front there, simply turn it the way you want it to rotate. You also have a locking knob on that dial, engage that and you can then only use the fine 10ths worm wheel adjustment knob to the top right of that cross feed dial.

To the left of that cross feed handle - dial assy you will find a little 1/4" rounded top pin sticking up, press that, and the cover opens revealing the crank that you can adjust the throw off to vary how much of a bite of cross feed it takes at each table travel.

The little leaver on top controls how fast that crank spins at end of table travel, adjust for a nice smooth reversal is best! The bigger leaver in the middle on top controls table speed, the other leaver and dogs control table side to side travel.

Honestly there pretty simple things, normally if there's a issue in the hydraulics its just blocked up with gunge and is pretty easy to pull apart and clean the whole lot. that said, on start up if they have sat for more than a few hours they gurgle and fart and jerk all over the place intill the air is out of the system, hence make sure everything is clear and just let the pump run for a few minutes with some table motion before fearing the worse!

There a really common grinder and so long as they have not been abused too harshly hold up to every day use a lot better than most grinders. They are kinda what bridgeports are to mills. Any questions theres several of us here all with diffrent models - ages so we can help you out.
 
Good help again.

Actually I was wondering how possible it would be to swap motors to single phase. Seems that the pump motor would be easy enough to swap out. Any thoughts on the Spindle Motor? Is it a "typical" motor available in single phase?


How do I remove the two smaller levers on the controls? The two that have what appears to be roll pins going through them. Are the pins actually roll pins? Or are they small screws? On both levers one side of the pin is smashed like it has been driven in, as I would expect a roll pin to be. But I have not been able to drive them out with a punch from the other side like I would expect. I was not making any headway so I stopped before I damaged the shaft or lever. Figured I better ask here before damage is done.
 
You need to look at what you have there, roll pins or tapered pins are surely easy enough to iD? Roll pins can get pretty tightly stuck in time too in my experience and need a pretty firm blow to get moveing, too many little ones just mushrooms em over. May pay just to drill out if you have been tapping at them? Especially if a previous owners buggered with it too.

No spindle motor is very non std, its shaft is way longer than a typical motor sticking out probably near 5-6" from memory. Vibration off a single phase motors going to not help the grinding and the slow ramp + vari speed of a VFD is really beneficial on a grinder. Hence why i recommend a simple single phase motor for the pump which is a dead easy swap and equally why the VFD is both cheaper, better and easier for the spindle motor.
 
Good advice. I did not know about the shaft length and I was not sure if a single phase would be a good swap. Years ago, before the internet and availability of VFD's for homeshop use. I swapped out my 3 phase motor in my 11" Logan lathe for a single phase. Works OK, but I wish that I had saved the original 3 phase motor. I'd go back to 3 phase now.

I'll work on those pins more today. Might have to form some kind of "press" and try to press them out rather than pound on them. First I'll see about drilling them. Not much room for a drill to get a straight on shot at the pin.
 
Hi,

Would somebody kindly also send me a copy of the Jones and Shipman 540 manual?

I recently sourced the machine but the owner did not have a copy of the manual anymore.

Thanking you in advance,

Apprentice20
 








 
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