Help ID'ing grinding fixture
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  1. #1
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    Default Help ID'ing grinding fixture

    Hi all,

    Can anyone help me identify this grinding fixture? I'm guessing it's a sharpening fixture, maybe for straight flute reamers?

    Thanks,

    Lee

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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    That's an old KO Lee sharpening fixture for holding cutters, like a reamer between centers. Pretty much been replaced with newer fixtures KO Lee have now, or did.

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    Great, thanks Ken! That gives me something to go on. It'll probably fit quite nicely on my import t&cg

    Lee

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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    Similar to B&S here at work on a reamer

    p1000353sm.jpgp1000354sm.jpgp1000355sm.jpg

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    Hi John

    Does your fixture have the option of mounting centers also? Mine doesn't appear to have a v-block, so between centers is the only option unless I fabricate something

    Lee

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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    A handy fixture for end and OD of centered parts and cutting tools. The tilt protractor allows tilt for a clearance but raising the turned wheel above and below center also makes clearance angle with fixture left horizontal. The tooth rest finger allows indexing tooth to tooth. For best accuracy the finger is set to the same flute tooth that one is sharpening at very close to the cutting edge.

    For OD grinding spiral cutters, reamers and the like the attached finger is not used, but a finger is attached to the wheel head so to ride along the flute face as the table is moved in long travel.

    A bushing can be put in the fixture forward end instead of the center and so to act like a steady rest to hold non centered cutters like drill and cut-off reamers, yes likely only to a small size due to the hole being small, and you have to hold the cutter tight/touching to the tail center. A dog can be set on the reamer OD and a slight raising into the wheel adds a radial secondary clearance to saving time to change finger height for each next same tool/reamer.

    The depth of end sharpening is limited to avoid hitting the following end tooth. Raising or lowering the wheel height provides an arc to help avoiding hitting the next/following tooth. Often the table as swung the cutting angle and the long travel stop is set to the stop that allows avoiding hitting the next/following tooth.

    Note the older TC grinders had centers but no tilt ability of the wheel head or the centers. Clearance and avoiding the the next tooth was made by raising or lowering the wheel and setting the wheel at an angle so using the arc of concave/convex wheel edge to provide the clearance angle. a hand protractor was held to the wheel face to find the angle needed for most cutters to get 1/2 degree and so.. very fussy angles needed a calculation of the wheel arc or check the tried angle with an indicator.

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    Fantastic info, thanks!

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    Only the little one down by the end of the 4MT in my photo above, but no, never between centers - unless you make some kind of contraption to sit in the vee block - or maybe just a big Solid Socket with a center in it

    Quote Originally Posted by leeko View Post
    Hi John

    Does your fixture have the option of mounting centers also? Mine doesn't appear to have a v-block, so between centers is the only option unless I fabricate something

    Lee

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by johnoder; 08-25-2020 at 09:53 AM.


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