how to indicate the spindle on a grinder???? help

I have a parker majestic grinder and can not seem to indicate the wheel that is on the spindle when I had to replace the abrasive wheel. I though it would be like anything else where you just tap the high spots and it would go into place but I cant seem to even get it within 1 grand. My father was the one that knew how to set it up but he passed away before teaching me precession grinding. This fourm has helped me a lot with figuring out a lot with the machining stuff that I was incompetent in since I inherited his machine shop and do not want to see his legacy die.

Here are the pictures of the grinder if that will help with anyone trying to help me.

If not a diamond wheel you dress it - hopefully with a first rate sharp dressing diamond.

On this I.D. grinder a typical way to do that is have the diamond held rigidly in a "post" made for that mounted on the table

The contact tip on that indicator may already be worn from use on diamond abrasives, if so it shouldn't be used for anything other than wheel truing.

Did you remove and check the arbor for any signs of damage or debris, and do the same for the ID spindle? Or is it an integral long shaft? Also, remove the wheel and check the arbor pilot runout itself, let us know what it reads (with a different, unworn indicator tip).

Good way to indicate is to put a ,005 shim under the indicator point with it held with a rubber band holding it to the indicator With no .005 you can cuts 1/4" wide strips from a soda pop or milk jug...Diamond wheel you try to indicate in often moving or turning
To find the high place of the arbor and the low place of the wheel. And of an AO wheel like john Oder said.

Yes the tip is toast for other use now. We keep DTIs just for indicating wheels.
As said indicate the arbor hub and face with no wheel mounted and reseat if needed. Get this with no wheel as close as possible. Look for burrs or just plain dust and dirt.
A resin bond wheel can be dressed or trued, a plated one no.
Sometimes you take a hand stone or file and open up the mount hole in the wheel so that you can offset it is as needed to remove the runout.
One hates to eggshape the nice hole but sometimes you have no choice.
The mount bolt or nut has to be just barely tight when trying to tap it into place. (soft block here) And then the the sucky thing as you tighten it fully.
Since this not a form wheel .001 (I assume 1 grand means this) or even twice that is workable.

Often a wheel will have runout and the mount also. By rotating the wheel to different clock positions on the mount you can make the two cancel each other.
One marks the wheel and mount and then tries 30-45 degrees forward and the the next angle index tracking your progress for a full rotation.
Somewhere you hit a min.

Do not indicate only one circle and think good, front and back ends.
Get the arbor right or as good as possible first. It is long and the whole lever vs distance thing. Dust or nicks too small to see get magnified.
Bob

Good that the holding screw tightens with the roration of the spimndle.
Often one grinds coming out of a bore so the wheel does not wear into a taper, so keeping the higher of the wheel on the follow out/ not on the leading in..

you can of course rotate the arbor on the mount also, unless there is key way.

I agree with CarbideBob. If 1 grand means .001 and you have that long arbor with .001 runout at the end, be happy. I also have had to enlarge holes in diamond wheels to get them tapped into center.